1987 gl1200 w/ 17k seized?

[pidjones]

I agree with Joe. At the most, some hand-held 600 grit silicone carbide paper flushed with isopropyl.

 

[dan filipi]

pidjones » 28 minutes ago[/url]":6f235puk]
I agree with Joe. At the most, some hand-held 600 grit silicone carbide paper flushed with isopropyl.

What does flushing the paper with isopropyl (alcohol) do?

 

[pidjones]

pidjones » 28 minutes ago[/url]":2h0jpl2j]
I agree with Joe. At the most, some hand-held 600 grit silicone carbide paper flushed with isopropyl.

What does flushing the paper with isopropyl (alcohol) do?

A bit like wet sanding, but this is on metal. Lubricates and keeps the abrasive "open" so it can cut. Also collects the removed material to make it easier to wipe away. Abrasive papers are cutting tools, and should never be stored face-to-face. If cared for, they stay sharper and last longer.

 

[Thombar]

With the piston at BDC, tape off. Scotch brite pad w/ kerosine, only moving perpendicular to stroke. Only cleaned the easiest visible part just to see depth of damage. Nothing worse than this was. Worth persuing?

 

[pidjones]

I'd say the hard part comes next - cleaning the old gasket from the block and head.

 

[dan filipi]

Looking good.

Can you feel any of those pits with a fingernail or are they just stains?

 

[Thombar]

Hi Dan,
After using scotch pad i could feel something still there so i pulled a new razor blade, w/ corners rounded off, at lowest angle possible. Now smooth as i can feel so i wiped w/ kerosine and cycled piston with crank bolt using very short wrench, no torque. Felt zero resistance and found no debris left when piston retracted. Cannot feel pits but am sure they are more than stains! I think Ive done all i can. Tomorrow will use cheap head gasket and do compression ckeck. Any suggestions?

 

[dan filipi]

The damage is minor and high in the cylinder so I think it’ll be ok.

 

[Thombar]

View attachment 1View attachment 2View attachment 3View attachment 4

 

[Thombar]

You know, come to think of it the exhaust port on this cylinder was black and oily like this issue existed while being driven before I bought. The loose bolts and missing spacers on that side were from previous owner knew about leaking gasket and damaged cylinder wall and didnt tell me. Means that oily exhaust will only be worse foe me now that Ive cleaned it up!

 

[Rednaxs60]

Read through your thread again, and agree that the cylinder wall is as good as it gets. Only way to get a better finish would be to take the engine out, and apart, hone cylinders and new rings - don't use the old, worst case would be going oversize. Just rebuilt my 1200 engine and had it in, out, apart three times for a different reason, gets easier each time. Going to pull it one more time and replace the inexpensive aftermarket rings I got from overseas with a set of Hastings 1.0 mm oversize that are for a 2000 Chevy Tracker. Machine shop didn't like the ones from overseas, neither do I.

Would recommend while the heads are off that you consider removing the valves for a cleaning of the valve seat and clean/lap the head valve seats a little - especially the exhaust valves. The intake valves and seats are generally very clean, but the exhaust valves do get a build up of crud from incomplete combustion and dirty fuel, and compression suffers. Giving the valves and valve seats a "lick and a promise" so to speak at this stage can't hurt. If you do this label everything.

Good luck.

 

[Thombar]

Way to go Earnest!
Admire your diligence in getting your 1200 right. Its not the destination but the journey and with that in mind there will always be a reason for a 5th R&R of your 1200. I appreciate getting to know mine for road side service situations. Think Ill stick to 1200 for the final 25 yrs of riding.
How can you be accurate enough to hone consitantly to a spicific bore to use oversize rings? Great to know about the Hastings Tracker rings. Will ask machine shop about valve cleaning Monday when get valve guides changed.
Thanks,
Tom
Blue Ridge, Ga

"Takes a Stoic understanding of your place in the universe to not get frustrated at an inanimate object in your persuit of perfection". - Thomas Lawrence Bartholf

 

[desertrefugee]

pidjones » Sat Jul 31, 2021 3:21 pm[/url]":3b4vh9bm]
I'd say the hard part comes next - cleaning the old gasket from the block and head.

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[Thombar]

Meant to ask, what gasket sealer and applied to head side of gasket? And I didnt know to keep track of which hole the head bolts came from!

 

[desertrefugee]

I have never used a sealer with head gaskets. Some do, but I couldn't tell you what type it is and it truly is not needed. Use genuine Honda gaskets, torque in the correct sequence to the proper values and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[Thombar]

Im about to start scrappen the old one off. Feels like there stuck somehow. The gasket tore in half, stuck to both sides. Does that mean they arent original? Stuck mostly to head, a few pieces only on block.

 

[desertrefugee]

That's why I laughed when pidjones mentioned this being a tough job. Cleaning the old gasket material is a royal PIA. Has to be done and DO NOT mar the surfaces. They all stick (the gaskets).

 

[Thombar]

I hear wd-40 softens so can drag a razor without gouging. Off to town first thing!

 

[Thombar]

Could not find a machine shop that could service these heads. Ive cleaned and mildly re-surfaced myself to be sure warping hadnt caused the coolant leak. I cleaned w/ kero and scotch brite then wd40 and razor. Used a 1' piece of glass, to be perfectly flat, blacked surface w/ marker, 220 then 400 grit w/ no downward pressure. Only took 10-12 passes to evenly remove all black, 5-6 more w/ 400 to finish. There are what appear to be casting imperfections in both heads. I didnt try to remove, not depressions. Will fit right head and compare compression w/ good rear cylinder tomorrow.

 

[joedrum]

Soinds good to good