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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92291#p92291:152x9ead said:
Ansimp » Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:13 am[/url]":152x9ead]
New head gaskets, too much work to experiment.
I agree!! If you are that far into pulling the heads and cleaning up, why not put good head gaskets on and be done with it. I would hate to think about pulling the heads several times just for fun?
 
so i took off the other side heads not so good
 

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the toppicture of the valves is after just a spray down with pb blaster . i dont really know what that thing is on the piston but its on all of them machined into it . rhetorically cylinder is no where as smooth as the other ones for the first two inches or so . is this thing shot?
 
yep what a waste of time she would have BURNED FREE IN 200 MILES :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: just kidding ... it don't look to bad at all to me ...it will clean right up ... its no worst than the motor ive been working on and its running good ....that's anti freeze gunk in that one head ...they will build up like that and still run ... it has has to run to make that stuff .... as everyone said good move now you can make a difference :mrgreen:

looks are deceiving I don't think its shot look at the 1200 twins thread :read: :mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92664#p92664:11hcrgr5 said:
wingding » Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:24 pm[/url]":11hcrgr5]
i could not find that 1200 twins thread
I found that thread, have a read from this post forward....viewtopic.php?p=85904#p85904
 
To clean the valve faces and cylinder area of the cylinder head, I use a wire wheel in the drill.
Go easy here because you don't want to dig in, just clean it and keep the wire wheel off the gasket surface.
Well you could run the wheel on the gasket surface but feel is important here which is why I usually don't recommend it. Don't let it gouge or dig into the aluminum. The aluminum is pretty tough but still........go easy while you get a feel for it.
There are wire wheels with softer wire so they flex some, get one of those.

Then on to the cylinders but don't use a wire wheel here.
Depending the condition will determine which way to clean them.
Is there any pitting in the cylinder walls?
 
you just want to make sure there is nothing sticking up ... don't be fooled ... a lot of placses look like pitting but are actually sticking up utilty knife blades are good if used with touch to feel the up spot sometimes very hard to get it off so much harder than the metal around it scubbies are good to a point ...but it take blade or file to get some stuff so damage is instant if not extremely up for it ... takes 150% touch and 0% stupid hands
 
Yes up spots can be a problem since that can damage rings quickly.

Ok, I'd pick up a scotchbright red pad and scrub the cylinder after coating it with automatic trans fluid.
This is pretty safe method.

Scrub for a couple minutes then wipe it clean and feel it all around. Repeat.
All your after is smoothing any rough spots.
Don't try to rush it. Get a feel for what the pad is doing. Some places may need to go at it dry but only being there doing it can judge this.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92788#p92788:2nb6yhej said:
wingding » Tue Aug 13, 2013 2:13 pm[/url]":2nb6yhej]
how about 400 grit sand paper is that oj
Trouble is I'm not there to look at the cylinder or feel it.
If the sandpaper is all you have I'd say go on it with little pressure in a left to right motion checking often what it's doing to the marks in the metal.
More or less pressure may be needed.
 

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