Okay - good progress and an "oops" has surfaced. You probably have the same issue with finding a "good" used engine as I would here. Expensive and most are in the US, expensive proposition.
Had an "oops" with mine the other day. Engine in and started, operating well. Next step, install front fairing and hook everything up, see what the engine is doing with the dash working. Did this and no rpm, fuel levels, engine temp, RPM, nyet. Dash is blank. Definitely a setback, but since I and we are higher on the food chain, the bike will assimilate. Same with shifting once I had the engine back in the frame. Started and idled nicely, shift into first, great - try second, no shift. Tried several times and no joy. Engine out and back on work bench. Engine case separated again. 3 days reading manuals, looking at the pictures in the manuals, taking shift linkage and transmission apart, and seeing nothing. Put back together, trialed at every stage and now works - go figure. Then I had an oil drip - rear lower case. Engine out for gasket replacement. Seems it does not want to leave the garage, not happening.
What I would do to minimize expense is split the engine case - can't hurt and a good experience. Lots of rebuilds have used the original bearings on install. Can't order any before hand, need to split the case and look at the markings to determine crank journal and con rod bearing sizes. The bearing sizes are extremely close between the 5 different sizes. Have read various threads about using aftermarket auto bearings for these engines - didn't think I'd need the info, but will peruse again. On the Honda Civic type forums, con rod and crank journal bearings are discussed and the mindset is that it is okay to go up one size on install.
GL1100 Bearing sizes
Crank Bearing Sizes
Insert Thickness
mm inch
Blue 2.0100 to 2.0140 0.0791 to 0.0793
Black 2.0060 to 2.0100 0.0790 to 0.0791
Brown 2.0020 to 2.0060 0.0788 to 0.0790
Green 1.9880 to 2.0020 0.0787 to 0.0788
Yellow 1.9940 to 1.9980 0.0785 to 0.0787
Con Rod Bearing Sizes
Insert Thickness
mm inch
Blue 1.507 to 1.511 0.0593 to 0.0595
Black 1.503 to 1.507 0.0592 to 0.0593
Brown 1.499 to 1.503 0.059 to 0.0592
Green 1.495 to 1.499 0.0589 to 0.059
Yellow 1.491 to 1.495 0.0587 to 0.0589
Piston rings - Canuckxxxx rebuilt his 1100 and used rings from an early model Chev tracker - think he paid around $25.00 CDN for 4 piston ring set. Have the con rods checked for straight, and hone the cylinders. Do a hone yourself first, if the cylinder cleans up nicely, continue yourself or take into a machine shop. A cylinder hone may take out 90% or more of what you see, pretty good percentage. A good machine shop can give some options as well. You may be surprised how well they will clean up. The marks on the piston don't look too bad. Are the marks deep or is it a scuff? As long as the con rods are straight, no harm, no foul, same with the valves.
There are a lot of older GWs out there that spew blue smoke on start and its lived with. Lots of engines operating with low compression. Exhaust valves should be removed and cleaned. Just like a car, operates the way the owner is willing to accept, and the owner puts key in, starts engine and rides. Ignorance is bliss.
Too much invested in your project, don't give up just yet. Patience young Skywalker. :whip:
