81 wing resto.. Perth western Australia

[Rednaxs60]

Had another thought, this issue has got the brain box going. Split the engine case, the left side comes off and the pistons stay connected to the crank. The right side pistons need to be disconnected to get at the cylinders. These are the only two items that need to be disconnected/disturbed and you can view the bearings - may not be too bad. The crank and left side pistons do not need to be removed/disturbed, ergo, bearings will be as you were intending to use the engine. Hone the cylinders, probably a lot of GWs out there with cylinders that are in the same or worse shape, and on the road, new rings - probably seal up just fine, install the right side pistons, join engine cases, off to the races so to speak. Don't succumb to the snowball effect. If you don't have to disconnect something, don't. Doing this could exacerbate the issue, as I mentioned, ignorance is bliss.

Looked at your picture of the piston. This appears to be on the right side of the engine. This is good in that this is one of the pistons you would remove to hone the right side engine cylinders, and check the con rod for straight.

If this works out, you will know what you have under the hood.

Thinking back on my youth, and how we rebuilt alternators, generators - used hacksaw blades to clean out the grooves on the rotors, and a multitude of other rebuild and make work issues. Using Ford electronics on a Gold Wing. Lots of examples on how we used to and do keep things going.

The three posts represent my thought process. The first is primarily for support, the second is more detailed, and the third is detail as well. Takes me a few go rounds to get my thought process in order.

Can't get anymore discouraged, but can be pleasantly surprised.

Good Luck.

 

[Gc33]

Finding a good donor engine here in Australia is a bit like Santa Claus... Neither exist. The fact that I have 4 engines now... All buggered is a testament to that.
Rednxx.. Thanks for your thoughts.. Similar to what I was thinking myself.
I can get custom pistons made. Very exxy!! There was some advertised on ebay out of France at what would be close to $1k Australian shipped.
I don't really know what to do at present... Maybe go fishing and dump off the side of the boat 5 miles out to sea....
I guess I'll walk away from it for now... Until another bright idea enters my head...

 

[Gc33]

Rednaxx... Unfortunately the corrosion is in No3 cyl. So that means a full strip sadly. Crankshaft gearbox... All the important stuff is on that side.
I don't think this engine has been opened before. When I drained the oil it was still clean... Like not run clean. I'm hoping that I can use the existing bearings. Im not one for doing a half job so I really don't like the thought of just bandaiding it ie do the one bore... But what other option except for exorbitant priced pistons. And if I'm goin to that than I want bearings to also be new as well.
I would go round to pedrotq's and pick his brains... Possibly take engine to his place and we would work on it there but Pedro is back in hospital again for 30 days for some nasty cancer treatment again...

 

[Rednaxs60]

Would do all the cylinders. The corrosion being in #3 cylinder is good because you have to remove pistons 1 and 3 to hone 1 and 3 cylinders. You don't have to remove pistons 2 and 4 from the crank to hone the left cylinders. Check CMSNL.com for bearings. Would be nice if the bearings came in as the "brown" - middle of the road. My con rod bearings were all "brown", the crank journal bearings were one "black" and two "browns". May be able to reuse numbers 1 and 3 con rod bearings as these are the only two that "need" to be removed. You can hone the right side cylinders with the crank, numbers 2 and 4 pistons and the transmission still in situ. Cover and give a good cleaning after honing the cylinders.

My 1200 cylinders were still in spec after 100K miles so a standard set of rings was all that was needed. Check out canuckxxxx thread on his 1100 engine rebuild for the rings he used: https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/ ... ne+rebuild Here's another thread with info on piston rings for an 1100: https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/view ... 17#p117923

Some additional information. Cheers

 

[Gc33]

Yeah I'm thinking that... Depending on what shape the bearings that are exposed are like too. If they have signs of wear from poor oil quality or uneven wear then I'd be an idiot not to check the remaining bearings.
Im heading out to buy a honing tool. That way I can hone good cylinders and possibly have that one cylinder repaired. I go back to my original thought of my 75. Have a welder build that surface back up and line bore it and machine it back to tolerance...
The one sure thing is its going to have to come apart. The good thing is that I have full gasket set for it.
And its a good thing that I decided to drop the heads as otherwise I'd be up for more pain after...

 

[Rednaxs60]

Hone number 3 cylinder first to get an idea of the true condition, may be okay. If #3 con rod is straight and all four cylinders spec out as standard, I'd use #3 con rod and piston again. If you need a new to you con rod to replace #3, these are weighted as a set. There will be a marking on the con rod indicating the weight of it - probably won't make a huge difference if you could not find an exact match, but it would be nice. Read about all this and confirmed it when I had my 1200 engine apart.

 

[Gc33]

@rednaxx...yeah ernest get that.....ive no reason to think anything is bent... Would take a fair thump to bend? And be other damage noticeable as well me thinks.
I think I'm a bit away from the strip down step just yet... At least I know where I'm at... Can focus on rest of chassis.. Panels etc I guess.

 

[Rednaxs60]

I like these projects in that there is always something different to do. Need to change up what I'm working on every now and then. Get bored doing the same thing over and over.

 

[Gc33]

righty-ho....So after a couple days consideration, head scratching and drinking copious of cold alcoholic beverages, I think Ive come up with a bit of a plan. Ive reverted back to the 75 1000 that I have all in pieces due to a similar issue only more serious corrosion. My 75 engine had serious corrosion in no 1 cylinder...as a reminder here tis..

Last evening I swapped out sand media from my sandblasting cabinet and replaced with a glass media. Gave the 75 cases a clean, hone 2 & 4 bores. No2 is bad...already established that. No4 didnt come up too bad and i dont think it warrants a re-bore but ill leave that to the professionals to decide.
So my options...
1 - find donor engine..... :smilie_happy: YEAH RIGHT!! Not here in Australia. and could end up with similar problem..to ship one from anywhere else in the world...$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
2 - purchase OS piston kit - As most are aware not readily available- Im surprised no ones is reproducing them...they do for 750 fours. I did find a set out of Germany but is going to cost me just shy of Aus $1000 landed. Plus machining of around $1500 ... you do the sums
3 - all my pistons on 75 appear to be in very good condition. So reduce risk and cost by re-sleeving hopefully only cyl 2 and have machined out to current piston sizing for under $1000.
The guy who i will get to do the work is a guy called Ray Easson https://www.facebook.com/rayeassonsmoto ... gineering/. Very well known here in Australia for his work on race bikes, drag bikes etc. On his last discussion with me he described what he would do...machine out current bore...not press and then replace with new sleeve and re-machine.
So if all this works out well, Ill take same route with the 1100 engine.

Ill seek some assistance from Pedrotq once he's out of hospital and is able to consume beer....that will be a good indicator that he will be ready to assist with the engine work. :BigGrin:
In the meantime I have 2 other chassis to be made rolling. Plenty to do. forks ready for re assembly, swing arm and steering head bearings, fuel tanks to be painted. Also panel work and prep for painting as well so ...plenty to keep one busy.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Been reviewing your thread and the KBS product that you used. The shop where my paint guy works is now selling the KBS product line. May try it on some of the smaller pieces that I still need to paint. Would like to get the bike down to the frame and give it a sandblast and paint. The Diamond Finish Clear spray can is an interesting alternative to other clear coat products.

I think I could clean everything well, use 1K epoxy primer - there is a KBS primer that can be used, then paint with the KBS product, and clear coat using the Diamond clear. The reason I didn't use the KBS product(s) before is these were not readily available.

 

[Gc33]

Rednaxs60 » 53 minutes ago[/url]":s2xhabhw]
Been reviewing your thread and the KBS product that you used. The shop where my paint guy works is now selling the KBS product line. May try it on some of the smaller pieces that I still need to paint. Would like to get the bike down to the frame and give it a sandblast and paint. The Diamond Finish Clear spray can is an interesting alternative to other clear coat products.

I think I could clean everything well, use 1K epoxy primer - there is a KBS primer that can be used, then paint with the KBS product, and clear coat using the Diamond clear. The reason I didn't use the KBS product(s) before is these were not readily available.

We haven't got the diamond clear in spray can Form here as yet that I know of.
The kbs system is very good. The beauty of it is the application of it. Can be sprayed brushed or sponged on as it is self levelling. The clear coat is also fuel resistant.
Word of advice though... WEAR GLOVES!! This stuff does not come off with thinners once on your skin. It wears off in time. Make sure you use a mask and safety glasses too... Speaking from experience... :shock:
For a lot of my smaller parts I've used my airbrush to paint them. Thin the paint down with the kbs No1 thinner. And if you are using a spray gun make sure you strip it completely after use. Once this stuff cures... It's hard as nail and difficult near impossible to clean properly.
It goes a long way. Also if your guy at paint shop hasn't told you... It's curing system is moisture cured. So painting in a humid or damp environment is perfect...

 

[Gc33]

Rednaxs60 » Today- 18:09[/url]":cvsigvu9]
Been reviewing your thread and the KBS product that you used. The shop where my paint guy works is now selling the KBS product line. May try it on some of the smaller pieces that I still need to paint. Would like to get the bike down to the frame and give it a sandblast and paint. The Diamond Finish Clear spray can is an interesting alternative to other clear coat products.

I think I could clean everything well, use 1K epoxy primer - there is a KBS primer that can be used, then paint with the KBS product, and clear coat using the Diamond clear. The reason I didn't use the KBS product(s) before is these were not readily available.

I should add too.... The rust blast process... Follow that if you use it. The rust seal paint is not UV light stable so in areas that are exposed need to be top coated with their "blacktop" product. Avail either in satin or gloss...

 

[Gc33]

Rednaxs60 » Today- 18:09[/url]":2xp5w600]
Been reviewing your thread and the KBS product that you used. The shop where my paint guy works is now selling the KBS product line. May try it on some of the smaller pieces that I still need to paint. Would like to get the bike down to the frame and give it a sandblast and paint. The Diamond Finish Clear spray can is an interesting alternative to other clear coat products.

I think I could clean everything well, use 1K epoxy primer - there is a KBS primer that can be used, then paint with the KBS product, and clear coat using the Diamond clear. The reason I didn't use the KBS product(s) before is these were not readily available.

I have pm'd you with some additional info mate...

 

[Gc33]

So... Today... I dismantled the 81 heads. Cleaned them up in the ultrasonic cleaning bath, then a high pressure clean and once dry I've put them in my sandblast cabinet with glass media.
Started cleaning them up... Polishing ports etc. The heads weren't in pristine cond... Definately original gaskets... They were hard to remove. Good ole Honda gaskets.. But I've managed to clean the 1st one up but noticed it has a damaged valve seat from corrosion or something. So I'll get that repaired... Added to the list.
I also assembled the 83 aspy heads... They look sweet. Very happy with them. That engine is the only one so far that the bores are OK... So I'll work on that one for a bit.

 

[Gc33]

After a fair bit of enquiring regarding pistons for the gl1000 and 1100's, I have found a company will can/will make them. But not cheap.
JE pistons in California will produce them but need sample. The pistons will cost approx $850US for a full set. My hurdle after that is bearings. But I sincerely believe that there are bearings from other manufacturers that also do same job.
I'll talk to the engineering company about that when I get to it...
I have a few more emails out that I'm awaiting replies to regarding pistons so I'll update when I do.
Hopefully this can be of help to everyone.

 

[joedrum]

Yep hmmmm inteteresting

 

[Gc33]

Also had email reply from dynoman as well. If they can get a piston as a sample they will produce them. I had hoped a 3D scan photocopy would give the dimensions required. If anyone in Austin Texas or nearby has a piston they can loan....

 

[Gc33]

Soo.... Little bit more work done over last couple of days. 1100 aspy frame repainted to a point I'm happy with.
I have just picked up my 1000 engine casings from being vapour blasted now ready for machining... Never ceases to amaze me how good vapour blasting is...

 

[mcgovern61]

Nice and clean! :good:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Very nice. Have seen that finish before! :music: