82 gl1100 carb problem

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you need to stay aggrssive as far as the stuff dan was saying is all important ...but there are many was to vacume leaks on a temp way to take that off the table ....i have a 77 rack thats had an explosion inside the rack two slidetops blown completely apart....linkaged around the butterflys was sever wrenched ...it took long while to get everythin bend back right to where it could be bench sync witch is nothing more than getting the linkage tight and adjusted to where its all the same
 
Just FYI, all it takes is one carb opening a very small amount to raise the rpm's that high under no load in neutral.

Number 3 being cold could be that its throttle plate is completley closed where the others are open.
It sounds like the sync is way out of wack.
 
Well. Yes the sync has to be way off now. Turned all out 1/4 like Joe sugested. But while looking around at linkage, ect. I found out why #3 carb was running ice cold. I have some kind of float or float needle problem. Looked in air box and I have gas in it. So pulled intake runner on#3 carb, head was full of gas 11/2 oz under intake runner. Pulled plug's on right bank and blew out a lot of gas. This just keeps getting funer and funer. Not sure how many thing are wrong but it has to be more than one. Mixture setting, float or float needle, and carb sync ect. Will start with float problem, mixture setting then sync. Then, I wanna ride. Good thing I have extra set of 80 carbs for parts.
 
neat now that you have that elbow off let thegas coma in the carbs....it should fill the bowl and stop if not the flost valve not working this will totaly shut a carb down ....so yes you issues with the carbs but this isnt out of the ordinary on oldwings that have sat and never brought up to par...hang in there ...when you get it right ...there so sweet
 
Thanks Joe Iwent thru the same thing about 7 years ago with my 77 gl1000 carbs,but when I finialy got them right I haven't had to touch then since. Just atf once a while. Sure is great to be able to get other looks at a problem. Thanks so much for all the info
 
whoo-ray got it.Looked and found!!! oem float valves, soaked in pb blaster changed out after market float valves . reset floats. Changed back to oem slid needle,s And could only find two oem mixture needle's used on left bank after cutting tab off so they could be adjusted with motor running. Set mixture.because I was having hard time with synchronize on left bank after bench sync. Finally got #3,1 and 4 carbs the same and #2 carb 2 lbs off. When I started up before doing this stuff. There was so much gas in oil from the bad AFTER MARKET float valves it smoked a LOT!!! Droped oil and changed it. Now it sounds so sweet no more carb knock. Sounds so good when things are set right. Thanks so much for all the info and advice. I guess it true good things come to those who are patient as long as they worketh like hell while they are patient. Took 50 miles ride it felt sooo good. thanks to all Jerry
 
jpwinger":2udhwe26 said:
whoo-ray got it.Looked and found!!! oem float valves, soaked in pb blaster changed out after market float valves . reset floats. Changed back to oem slid needle,s And could only find two oem mixture needle's used on left bank after cutting tab off so they could be adjusted with motor running. Set mixture.because I was having hard time with synchronize on left bank after bench sync. Finally got #3,1 and 4 carbs the same and #2 carb 2 lbs off. When I started up before doing this stuff. There was so much gas in oil from the bad AFTER MARKET float valves it smoked a LOT!!! Droped oil and changed it. Now it sounds so sweet no more carb knock. Sounds so good when things are set right. Thanks so much for all the info and advice. I guess it true good things come to those who are patient as long as they worketh like hell while they are patient. Took 50 miles ride it felt sooo good. thanks to all Jerry
Click to expand...

Good for you Jerry, you can feel proud every time you hear it run now. Have a question just to be sure I understand what you did. (just one of terminology) You said "float Valves" .... you WERE talking about the float needle right. I mean, you didn't extract the brass seat did you?

I haven't been into hundreds of bike carbs but plenty nonetheless. I have yet to find an OEM float needle bad. Yeah some need a good clean up along with cleaning the "seat" and I always clean the floats themselves with alcohol and Q-tips. a gram or two of film buildup can make a difference float levels once reassembled. Another thing to check while in there is the "stand pipe" in the float bowl for overflow. if you get one puking out the over flow onto the floor the needle and seat are suspect BUT if there's a crack in the little brass stand pipe it can run you crazy throwing needles at the carb and setting and resetting the float level to no avail while the culprit is that little pipe. They can be fixed with some solder is you ever run across that problem. Got a Rebel 450 out in storage that was pouring fuel out all over the place and into the crankcase. Float was set wrong, seat was filthy as was the needle. after fixing all that it was still puking out the overflow. Turned out the pipe had a crack in it and once sealed ... problem solved. I like working on carburetors but hate taking them off and on multiple times.

Here's a tip from Randaak on those idle mixture screws .... "Use Kawasaki part 16014-1080. This part is the exact same part used on Honda CBX, GL1100, CX500, DOHC-4 and many other Hondas of this vintage (but not GL1000)."

https://www.randakks.com/TechTip74.htm
 
Thanks Gary,Sindwinder. You should have seen all the smoke!!! Yep just the float needles and cleaned screen under needle seat. Setting mixture was a pain. Watertubes and intake runners get hot. But it can be done with fingers.But Slabghost told me I could use rag on hot spots. DUH!!! I have the carb tool to adjust with but couldn't be sure it was turning valves. And bench sync got me close. Just took time. Now sounds and runs like it should. I have a Califorina sidecar but I think I will leave it off for a while. It puts a lot of stress on bike. I forgot how smooth and nice it rides without it. Now the next pain I have 83 vt500 shadow with carb problems I think diaphram's are bad, it sat for 14 years too . I haved soaked boiled and used 125 lbs air pressurre no luck. I am going to try a company named JPM in Ohio he make makes diaphram's that are unavibale now. Price is very good . Thanks to all Jerry
 
jpwinger":qa0immkk said:
Thanks Gary,Sindwinder. You should have seen all the smoke!!! Yep just the float needles and cleaned screen under needle seat. Setting mixture was a pain. Watertubes and intake runners get hot. But it can be done with fingers.But Slabghost told me I could use rag on hot spots. DUH!!! I have the carb tool to adjust with but couldn't be sure it was turning valves. And bench sync got me close. Just took time. Now sounds and runs like it should. I have a Califorina sidecar but I think I will leave it off for a while. It puts a lot of stress on bike. I forgot how smooth and nice it rides without it. Now the next pain I have 83 vt500 shadow with carb problems I think diaphram's are bad, it sat for 14 years too . I haved soaked boiled and used 125 lbs air pressurre no luck. I am going to try a company named JPM in Ohio he make makes diaphram's that are unavibale now. Price is very good . Thanks to all Jerry
Click to expand...

I used chem dip for many years, my dad and uncles did the same, (one uncle only rebuilt carbs for a living for about 50 years). Not long ago I got talked into using an ultrasonic cleaner...... results > I will never use chemical dip cleaner again. The one I have is on sale at the HF https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html. add about 1 part simple green HDpro and 3 parts distilled water, let it warm up and give 'em a few rides in that will clean the insides better that anything the average guy can get use of. If you have a lot of stuff with carburetors you can't go wrong with this method. The only chemicals now is just to clean off the big stuff before the ultrasonic bath. Then just rinse them off in hot water and blow the out making sure every passage is clear.

Another thing is, put a light behind every air cut off valve and accelerator pump and if you see any daylight toss 'em and put in new ones. people soak them without removing these and the chemicals will eventually eat the vulcanized rubber off and cause a problem. Just some stuff that comes to mind.
 

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