obviously this is the problem id say nylon lock nuts have to be crazy to use them around heat sheesh ..i cant imagine that would work ..and im not sure what torque specs are but loose aint it
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Lowes may have elongated nuts, otherwise some good quality lock washers.
Denver
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Steel stover lock nuts, are what you want. Grade 8 or better
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I've found the problem. The actual bolts that I'm attaching the cylinder head nuts too are ruined. I went and bought some regular nuts to see if it would tighten down and it appears as through the bolt threads are stripped, won't tighten down. I took a chance and started the bike, it ran for 30 seconds and left cylinder blew again.
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Maybe could stack some washers to "catch" good threads? That or I was thinking maybe the nut is tightening down on the studs to a shoulder with no threads?
Just guessing because I haven't seen them.
Just guessing because I haven't seen them.
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Removed cylinder head. Taking a good look at the bolts , they don't look too bad. Nuts might be off a bit!! Im going to order some stock nuts and hope it bolts down. If not, im done !
These are for sure special nuts, I ordered 8 from ebay and really hope this works. Man, what a journey !! :head bang: :head bang:
These are for sure special nuts, I ordered 8 from ebay and really hope this works. Man, what a journey !! :head bang: :head bang:
The right thing to do is replace the studs. Running it until it "blows/seizes" is asking for trouble. I wouldn't fire it up again until you get it sorted. To easy to do real damage.
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Do the studs just unscrew?[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207194#p207194:1votx725 said:
I don't know on that machine. Some, if not most, do. I'm not even sure if pressed in studs are a good idea on a cylinder. I've never seen them pressed. Got a closeup of one? If it's threaded, it'll be relatively easy. Lots of penetrating oil and double-nutting along with lots of patience. You definitely don't want to break it off. Then your fun intensifies a bit.
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Going to wait on stock nuts. They are elongated and will grip more. The threads look okay, not great but not stripped. Will try this route first.[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207196#p207196:ip1ge2z6 said:
Run a die over the dtuds to make sure the threads are clean and straight. Make sure you have the correct washers on them, also. Head nuts are usually heat treated as well as the washers. Make sure you use a torque wrench in the proper sequence when tightening. And as Joe said, make sure the head and jug interface is flat.
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Good advice, thank you.
I really freaked out! And I hope I haven't screwed anything up! Really want this old bike running!
Any good researchers out there. I have the manual and parts manual and no mention of torque spec for cylinder head. One forum I think mentioned 15 ft lbs. bike is a 1967 Yamaha ycs1 180cc
I really freaked out! And I hope I haven't screwed anything up! Really want this old bike running!
Any good researchers out there. I have the manual and parts manual and no mention of torque spec for cylinder head. One forum I think mentioned 15 ft lbs. bike is a 1967 Yamaha ycs1 180cc
Denver
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Studs are typically screwed into the base of the barrels.
Red Lock Tite, or some other type of locking agent is often used, to keep them in place.
Red Lock Tite, or some other type of locking agent is often used, to keep them in place.
hmmm could studs be turned around? so the threads are made better for the new nuts coming
Denver
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Weak threads holding studs on either end is not a good idea(I M H O) :nea:
Matching thread, using grade 8 or better bolts, cut to length, then chasing the threads, will give you new studs. :thank_you:
Matching thread, using grade 8 or better bolts, cut to length, then chasing the threads, will give you new studs. :thank_you:
slabghost
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Just a bit of two stroke advice. Use WD40 as a start spray.
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I posted this yesterday but it disappeared. Bike is up and running again ! Had to die the head bolts and use stock nuts. Carbs still need tweaked. good looking bike that turns heads :music2: Only 5000 original miles since the engine blew back in 1970 :cheeky:
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First pictures I recall seeing and it really looks nice. I like the blue a lot, especially on the top of the shocks. The chrome, engine cases and seat are all in great shape as well. It is is worth the time you're taking getting the motor right.
I am working on a pair of Kawasaki KE100s. I have one running good but have a leaky carb. I'm getting a kit for it. The other I have water damage on it, but it is cleaning up fine. My first two-stroke motor disassembly and it's been interesting. My experience is that they are a lot easier to deal with, lack of valves etc., but being my first time I've had my moments.
Keep going, you got this.
I am working on a pair of Kawasaki KE100s. I have one running good but have a leaky carb. I'm getting a kit for it. The other I have water damage on it, but it is cleaning up fine. My first two-stroke motor disassembly and it's been interesting. My experience is that they are a lot easier to deal with, lack of valves etc., but being my first time I've had my moments.
Keep going, you got this.
nice bike id like to have one
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Okay, so the bike is running but I'm definitely going to have to dial in the carbs. I have oil dripping from right exhaust and that cylinder is not firing all the way as the exhaust is warm and not hot. Left cylinder is fine and exhaust gets nice and hot, no oil dripping on left.
So........... my question is could the right cylinder not be getting enough gas for the oil to burn up. I checked the spark plug and its a little oily! Also, the red oil pressure light stays on......mmmmmmmmmmm...........
So........... my question is could the right cylinder not be getting enough gas for the oil to burn up. I checked the spark plug and its a little oily! Also, the red oil pressure light stays on......mmmmmmmmmmm...........
