BObber build

[dan filipi]

I don’t think I’ll have any time before Sunday to sit down with the schematic to see what has to be done.
Anyone else can help feel free to jump in.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » Yesterday, 9:32 pm[/url]":2lgw4ak2]
I don’t think I’ll have any time before Sunday to sit down with the schematic to see what has to be done.
Anyone else can help feel free to jump in.

Thank you Dan.
Here is some more info. This is the wiring for the aftermarket switch

WIRING DIAGRAM：

W+W - HORN
B+B - LIGHTS
RED - TURN SIGNAL INPUT
G - RIGHT TURN
Y - LEFT TURN

 

[dan filipi]

Some time this morning.


The gray wire supplies power thru the turn signal relay when there is a "load" on it, which in turn alternates On and OFF with the load applied.

You should be able to make either the right or left turn signals blink by using a test jumper wire. Should also hear the buzzer if it even works.
Right side- jumper gray to solid blue
Left side- jumper gray to solid orange (What I'm saying is "orange" in my posts could be a yellow so adjust for that)

This is all assuming the turn signals and buzzer worked with the original switch.

Key needs to be ON.

 

[dan filipi]

On the stock switch, the striped wires power the front right and left "position" lights when the turn signal was NOT active.
So..When moving the switch to left, the left position lights turned off, same with the right side.

Your aftermarket switch doesn't have this capability so it looks to me like the "position" lights can be connected so they will just stay on even while activating either left or right turn. Connect the striped brown, blue, and yellow wires together. Or you can just cap them off, your choice.

 

[dan filipi]

On the new switch, connect

Red to gray
Green to Blue
Yellow to Orange (or Yellow hard to tell)

Looks like you’re mounting the switch upside down so might have to adjust for that.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » 28 minutes ago[/url]":3jeamcq9]
On the new switch, connect

Red to gray
Green to Blue
Yellow to Orange (or Yellow hard to tell)

Looks like you’re mounting the switch upside down so might have to adjust for that.

Thank you Dan. I really appreciate you taking the time to figure this out. I will let you know how it all goes once hooked up.

 

[made2care]

Clutch switch wires , one is green/ red stripe and one is just solid green. Can I just wire these together and not connect to clutch switch? Or should I connect them to aftermarket switch and if so, where?

 

[dan filipi]

The stock switch essentially connects those 2 wires together when the lever is pulled as a safety so starter can be engaged even while in gear, but with clutch lever pulled the transmission is disengaged. If connected together permanently without a lever activated switch, you bypass that safety feature. Not a big deal as long as you remember.

 

[chilidawg]

D-50Dave » Wed Apr 14, 2021 4:00 am[/url]":38qeup48]
I'm watching this, too. I have to replace my right Start button switch, which has 9 wires, with an after market which has 6 wires. :shock:

The black/red and the blue/white are only there to turn off the headlight while the starter button is pressed, if you have a good starting bike you can jump them together. That cuts it down some.

:0fftopic: Sorry, not meaning to hijack!








i

 

[D-50Dave]

chilidawg » Yesterday, 9:01 pm[/url]":1j7ue58f]

D-50Dave » Wed Apr 14, 2021 4:00 am[/url]":1j7ue58f]
I'm watching this, too. I have to replace my right Start button switch, which has 9 wires, with an after market which has 6 wires. :shock:

The black/red and the blue/white are only there to turn off the headlight while the starter button is pressed, if you have a good starting bike you can jump them together. That cuts it down some.

:0fftopic: Sorry, not meaning to hijack!







i

Thanx! :mrgreen:

 

[made2care]

Turn signal wiring to aftermarket switch is working and even have original buzzer working as well.

Now I thought I had the headlamp to aftermarket switch figured out but......not working. I turn on the ignition and press aftermarket switch and nothing, unless the headlight only comes on after you start the bike?

Here are the wires: 1980 gl1100

OEM HEADLIGHT SWITCH has 3 wires- dark blue, white, blue with white stripe. I think blue is low beam, white is high beam and blue/white just goes to starter switch ( not sure where blue/white wire goes on aftermarket switch if at all)

The ATERMARKET HEADLIGHT SWITCH (push button in/out) only has TWO connections

The AFTERMARKET HEADLIGHT has 3 wires: ground, blue(low beam), red (high beam)

 

[joedrum]

I'm thinking the does go out starter is cranking ...

 

[dan filipi]

The blue/white supplies +12v from the starter switch button.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » Today, 8:56 am[/url]":1898ajwi]
The blue/white supplies +12v from the starter switch button.

With that being said, I guess I connect the blue/white to either connector on the aftermarket switch? There are just 2 connectors on aftermarket switch, coupled with a low or high beam wire from headlight.

 

[dan filipi]

made2care » 45 minutes ago[/url]":9ubed1gz]

dan filipi » Today, 8:56 am[/url]":9ubed1gz]
The blue/white supplies +12v from the starter switch button.

With that being said, I guess I connect the blue/white to either connector on the aftermarket switch? There are just 2 connectors on aftermarket switch, coupled with a low or high beam wire from headlight.

How many wires come out the new headlight switch?? Should be 3, power in, low beam, high beam.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » 32 minutes ago[/url]":fesnb0d3]

made2care » 45 minutes ago[/url]":fesnb0d3]

dan filipi » Today, 8:56 am[/url]":fesnb0d3]
The blue/white supplies +12v from the starter switch button.

With that being said, I guess I connect the blue/white to either connector on the aftermarket switch? There are just 2 connectors on aftermarket switch, coupled with a low or high beam wire from headlight.

How many wires come out the new headlight switch?? Should be 3, power in, low beam, high beam.

Just 2 . the 2 blue wires go to a push in, push out headlight button . I believe its just an on/off button
download/file.php?id=21570&t=1

 

[dan filipi]

made2care » 38 minutes ago[/url]":hc0d52mv]

dan filipi » 32 minutes ago[/url]":hc0d52mv]

made2care » 45 minutes ago[/url]":hc0d52mv]

dan filipi » Today, 8:56 am[/url]":hc0d52mv]
The blue/white supplies +12v from the starter switch button.

With that being said, I guess I connect the blue/white to either connector on the aftermarket switch? There are just 2 connectors on aftermarket switch, coupled with a low or high beam wire from headlight.

How many wires come out the new headlight switch?? Should be 3, power in, low beam, high beam.

Just 2 . the 2 blue wires go to a push in, push out headlight button . I believe its just an on/off button
download/file.php?id=21570&t=1

No low beam/high beam switch?

 

[made2care]

No high beam/ low beam switch.
With this being just an on/off switch, I'm thinking just hook one blue wire from switch to a power source (blue/white wire) and the other blue switch wire to the high beam wire on the headlight.

 

[made2care]

I figured it out. Headlight is working now.
I’m sure I will have more questions down the road.
Thanks again Dan for taking the time to help me.
Have a blessed day.

 

[made2care]

Just hear me out. I know this makeshift gas tank is very small but there is a method to my madness. My question though is ..... I attached this to the frame therefore I’m assuming it’s safe( grounded) It has no electrics in it anyway. Also, the spout by the gas cap, do I plug that off or run a vent tube down under bike somewhere. Didn’t know if gas tanks are vented to prevent vacuum lock.
Thanks