canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[joedrum]

yes its hard to beat the dans carb heater ... he whip that out in one day I think ... it hasn't had one adjustment yet I know of ... hard to argue :headscratch:

 

[dan filipi]

On my drive home I was thinking could maybe solder a hose fitting into the bottom radiator tank for the coolant return.
I do know these water pump are not powerful at all so maybe a fitting in the water pump cover is best overall, might help the flow since pump suction is right there.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Dan,

Could the coolant return be tapped into that branch that comes up from the water pump cover and to the right, with a round shape at the end? Drill and tap a 1/4" hole in the middle of the round shape and put a 90 degree fitting. :fishin:

Also, I didn't notice that I had a coolant leak until I looked at the picture. :head bang:

Thanks
Brian

closeup of water pump

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 3, 2014

 

[dan filipi]

I think at these 2 spots may be ok to tap a fitting in.
The aluminum wall looks thick enough though I'm not sure where the pump impeller is exactly, if a hole there would be too close to it. Could that effect it's pumping ability/action?

 

[sparrowhawkdesign]

There is an extension being used when the rads are moved forward for the alternator conversion. I believe from a GM big block thermostat housing? If one of these could be used without moving the rad forward it could be easily tapped for a fitting.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmmm ...im not sur messing wih pump space is good idea

 

[sparrowhawkdesign]

The spacer is just to move the hose connector piece forward. It solves the hose issue being too short when the rad is moved forward.

Ohiobill's post in Alternators/How you did your's shows a picture.

 

[dan filipi]

viewtopic.php?p=102652#p102652

 

[dan filipi]

Realized I never posted pics of where I tapped in the fitting.....

I got this pump cover from steve83.
It has a larger space where I circled which gave me just enough room to tap the fitting.

I don't know what year that pump cover is off of.
As far as I know this pump cover is the one that was on the 81 engine.
I have a couple others but they don't have that larger space on it like the first picture.

 

[dan filipi]

Now that I look at the pump cover better I don't see any reason why a fitting couldn't be tapped into that round part like you mentioned.
Hard to know how thick the aluminum is right there though.

 

[dan filipi]

I checked that round part for possible tapping, no way 1/4" npt will go that I would try. It's too close to the outside diameter of that space. 1/8" pipe would work.
1/8" is what I wanted to use originally but couldn't find a fitting with larger than a 5/16" hose barb.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:24 pm[/url]":3h2bg6im]
I checked that round part for possible tapping, no way 1/4" npt will go that I would try. It's too close to the outside diameter of that space. 1/8" pipe would work.
1/8" is what I wanted to use originally but couldn't find a fitting with larger than a 5/16" hose barb.

Thanks for your efforts Dan. Do you think that 1/8" fittings with 5/16" hose would not give enough flow to heat the plenum?

BTW I think you might have a water pump cover from a 1200 on your bike. Apparently there are 2 cover for the 1200 and one has a hose fitting on it already. And they will fit on the 1100. I saw this on the Steve Saunders site: https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... nt-54.html

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Also, that spacer for the big block chevy looks like it is way longer than we need to get a 1/4" NPT hole in it. It could be cut down to 5/8" to 3/4" thick so maybe the bottom rad hose could connect to the radiator and still stay in the stock location.

Or weld a barbed end on which would take even less space.

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

I honestly don't know if 5/16 hose would allow good flow.
badorderbob figures his 1/4" flows well enough but I wanted to be sure so I stuck with sizes I knew from experience would flow good.
I'm of the opinion here what you don't want is restriction in that line, you want good flow for quick heat.

 

[canuckxxxx]

How about 3/8" hose going to the plenum...that should be big enough right? I happen to have a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum in the garage. Maybe I will try making a spacer that is 1/2" thick and with a 3/8" hole from the side for a piece of 3/8" OD tubing that the hose could slide over. I bet then the bottom rad hose would still fit on the rad in the stock location.

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

All I can truely say works here is what I've tried so I cannot say if 3/8 is large enough but my concern was all along there might not be enough push from the pump to overcome even the small amount of resistance to flow created by turns etc at idle rpm from the pump.
Just have to try it and see.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:38 pm[/url]":znygpype]
All I can truely say works here is what I've tried so I cannot say if 3/8 is large enough but my concern was all along there might not be enough push from the pump to overcome even the small amount of resistance to flow created by turns etc at idle rpm from the pump.
Just have to try it and see.

Do you have 1/2" hose?

 

[dan filipi]

Yes 1/2" I.D hose.

 

[joedrum]

yep it seems to me that spot would work good ... it sure seems to be the best system ive seen ... I seen it in action on video ... it seemed to move the coolant quite well as long as it works as easy as dan did, it seems it no harm to the motor .... there is 10% more flow for any one who has 1200 there doing this too also ...like where I am at ..I pretty much setting back watching how dan dose as it seems to be the answer...to me so far for heat

 

[canuckxxxx]

Update on my single carb conversion:

I have decided to heat the plenum with coolant flowing through a chamber on the bottom of the plenum rather than my first idea of casting an aluminum mass to connect the coolant lines on the top of the engine to the bottom of the plenum. My reasons for this decision are;
-coolant directly against the plenum will supply more heat than heat conducted through the aluminum mass
-aluminum mass would take longer to reach it's final temperature so slower warm-ups
-the alum. mass was going to cost me $100 to cast and I think I can do a coolant chamber cheaper than that
-coolant chamber is proven to work

So I have painted my clay mold red and now have a nice, although weird, paper weight.

pic of mold in red

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

For the coolant chamber on the bottom of the plenum; I decided to close in the bottom of the plenum with 1/8" aluminum welded directly to the plenum. That way the warm coolant is directly against the plenum for maximum heat transfer. Since my manifold system is so low slung and close to the engine coolant lines I had to make a low profile coolant chamber so I tried to make it as wide as possible. I will have 1/2" OD 3/8" ID tubing welded on for inlet/outlets.

I started out by making a paper template and then transferring that shape onto the 1/8" sheet and cut it out. I am not sure if it was necessary to go with 1/8" thick because it is rather difficult to bend but I figured it would be easier to weld than thinner stuff. Even with the paper template there is still a lot of grinding and filing to make it fit right. I am still not finished with the fitting but it is getting close. Here is what I have done so far.

Brian

paper mockup

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

coolant chamber 2

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

coolant chamber 3

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

coolant chamber 4

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014