canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build

[mcgovern61]

Two questions:

1. How does the coolant chamber get coolant?

2. Can you weld cast aluminium and sheet aluminium together and get a seal without cracking later?

 

[joedrum]

looks great to me ... it is kind of on the flat side ... but I don't see that as bad ..I think that's better....no messing around ...nice work brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

mcgovern61 » Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:36 am[/url]":1oqqkp8t]
Two questions:

1. How does the coolant chamber get coolant?

2. Can you weld cast aluminium and sheet aluminium together and get a seal without cracking later?

I haven't done it yet but there will 1/2" heater hose connecting the plenum to a fitting that I will put on the back end of the main return line on top of the engine here

upper tap in

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

and the pump suction in this area.

closeup of water pump

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 3, 2014

Not 100% sure about the suction side; might make a 1/2" plate to go between the lower hose connector and the pump cover with a 1/2" OD tube welded to or might try and drill and tap a hole in the pump cover. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

As far as the welding goes, I was just assuming that the alum sheet could be welded to the cast plenum because it seems that others have done it. But tell me more about your experience with this sort of thing.

Brian

 

[dan filipi]

It's looking great like that.
Even shallow I'm sure with enough coolant flow through it, there will be plenty of heat.

May not be a problem but I'm concidering a petcock fitting in my copper line to burp air out.
Even though the lines get real hot I'm just curious if there's any air in them.

 

[canuckxxxx]

dan filipi » Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:02 am[/url]":iy4gig5b]
It's looking great like that.
Even shallow I'm sure with enough coolant flow through it, there will be plenty of heat.

May not be a problem but I'm concidering a petcock fitting in my copper line to burp air out.
Even though the lines get real hot I'm just curious if there's any air in them.

Yes, Dan, I think a burp vent is a good idea, will put one in for sure. Would also be handy any time you are refilling the cooling system.

Brian

 

[mcgovern61]

As far as the welding goes, I was just assuming that the alum sheet could be welded to the cast plenum because it seems that others have done it. But tell me more about your experience with this sort of thing.

I am not an aluminium welder, but I do inspection work on aluminium vessels and aluminium plate and cast aluminium are not exactly the same. Generally, we do not allow anything to be welded to cast aluminium because vibration and temperature can affect the expansion rate of the different materials causing cracks along the weld at the cast aluminium side.

Again, I am not a welder and there may be good methods for doing this that will not have any issue, but I would want to be absolutely sure before I end up with a crack and lose the coolant on the side of the road.

 

[slabghost]

For this application I believe the heat and other stresses will be acceptable and not crack. I have seen some good looking welds crack just because and some I wondered how they hold never crack or leak.

 

[Ansimp]

Looks great. You shouldn't have too much problem with the too different alloy types as my mate welds them all the time without any problems as it is not a high load joint..

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:50 am[/url]":1bur943p]
For this application I believe the heat and other stresses will be acceptable and not crack. I have seen some good looking welds crack just because and some I wondered how they hold never crack or leak.

+1

 

[dan filipi]

Coolant supply is pretty simple and straight forward from the center crossover assembly.
I'd like to talk some on the suction/return side. That's the problematic part of the coolant flow.

Not trying to hijack your thread canuckxxxx, just trying to come up with more ideas because your working on a return also.

The way I did it with a late model 1100 or early model 1200 (not sure which) pump cover worked out well but this specific part might be hard to come by.

IMG 1995

• dan filipi
• Jan 3, 2014
• 2

The 80-83 fittings I have look like this one, which could possiblly be tapped to accept a 1/8th" inch plumbing hose barb but would 1/8th" allow enough coolant flow....

IMG 1996

• dan filipi
• Jan 3, 2014

Ive seen others using the GM t-stat adaptor to extend forward the hose after moving the radiator forward during a alternator pulley install but those might be too thick if the radiator isn't moved forward. Do these come in different thicknesses?

Or maybe something like this....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/V8-HBODY-THERMO ... 1092114112

mxr-X6yPH9Be510IvGpGclw

• dan filipi
• Jan 17, 2014

I don't know what the hose outlet orientation is or the hose size of that fitting.

Where else could one do a coolant return?

One other place I considered was solder a brass hose barb into the bottom radiator tank.
Easy deal to solder these radiators. I've done it, they are made out of very good copper.

 

[dan filipi]

CM85 posted at saunders he returns at the tstat cover.
(Yes I am reading that thread)

This sounds like it might be a better option than returning at the lower hose.

My reasoning is......
returning at the lower hose is ALL the time whether the engine is cold or HOT.
Returning (in essence bypassing) the radiator at the lower hose may have the effect of not allowing enough coolant to be routed through the radiator when the engine and riding temps are real high, like 90 degrees +.

Mine right now in cooler weather runs stable temps and the fan cycles like normal but I haven't run it yet in high temps so I don't know what will happen by me returning to the lower hose.

Tapping the tstat cover may have a self regulating effect on this bypass.
When the stat is closed, coolant will flow through the plenum heater.
As the tstat opens, coolant flow (in the bypass/heater lines) would seem to reduce since a larger opening is now allowing flow away from the bypass, in a sense self regulating.

I need to think on this some more but it makes sense to me at this point.

 

[Ansimp]

You are overthinking it Dan. Your plenum heater is also working as a radiator/cooler so it would be interesting to see the actual temperature differences between the bottom radiator hose and your return line.

 

[Ansimp]

Overthinking some more :head bang: , if the return was hotter than the bottom hose then you would have a thermo siphoning effect possibly giving better flow through the plenum heater :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

Overthinking maybe but the unknown is what will happen in the summer with a fully open bypass.

 

[canuckxxxx]

I was out looking at the cooling plumbing some more. I think there is a coolant route that bypasses the T stat already via a port below the T stat and that port on the top of the pump cover. I will know for sure when I take the top plumbing off to add fittings.

When the T stat is closed the coolant can still circulate around the engine. So then maybe it makes sense to tap the return line from the plenum into the T stat housing because it is routed to the suction side of the pump anyways.

What do you guys think?

Brian

coolant return port

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

coolant return port 2

• canuckxxxx
• Jan 17, 2014

 

[dan filipi]

Both places you have the pencil pointing is the closed circulation bypass.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Seems like, whether you tap into the T stat housing or somewhere down by the pump, they are both connected to the pump suction. But coolant from our plenum has to compete with non-plenum coolant returning to the pump if we go in via the T stat. A line run down to the pump seems like it will flow more coolant because it has it's own separate path.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Just read a post over at the Steve Saunders site by Cyclebuster. He suggests that the coolant return could be plumbed into the fan switch hole, at the T stat, or an adapter made for the coolant drain down by the pump. These sound like pretty simple solutions to how to tap into these two locations.

Brian

 

[Joep]

On the pump side maybe I can shed a little bit of information on the way the pump works.... I had a bolt hole my pump housing on my 81.... and at speed I had no loss of fluid from the hole.. until bike came down to idle.. the speed of the pump above idle kept the fluid circulating within the pump.. at idle the slowing fluid exceeded the capacity of the pump and then began to over flow... so I got see the pump working at speed and at idle... I did replace the pump housing.. bike was okay... if I can find the housing I will pic and post..

 

[joedrum]

yes this is like the intake side of the pump this will keep circulating the coolant through pump when thermostat is close ...with the coolant in the motor...

I see no reason you couldn't hook up to this temp signal fitting with a T or something as this coolant instantly mixes with the hot circulating water I don't care who muck cooler it might be .. that's just bologna tech ..in my opinion