Changing out camshafts, '82's for '77's

[chilidawg]

Can anyone tell me what the free service limit for the external valve spring is? It appears that I'll have to re-use the internal springs as they are also unavailable, as are the exhaust valves, Thank you.

 

[joedrum]

most of us reuse springs and stuff caise of the cost and unavailability of the part at any decent price...I know I do.. I surely looks things over good

 

[mcgovern61]

chilidawg » Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:29 pm[/url]":1ud6en8h]
Can anyone tell me what the free service limit for the external valve spring is? It appears that I'll have to re-use the internal springs as they are also unavailable, as are the exhaust valves, Thank you.

The shop manual in the gallery lists the limits. I know what the internal limit is (Original length 40.2mm - Limit is 39.0 mm) but I forget the external limit.
viewtopic.php?p=20467#p20467

 

[travis]

If You put a offset key in your cam sprockets and advance your cams you can drop your torque curve down to around 4k, pull the hills a little easier and not any loss on top end

 

[dan filipi]

travis » Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:43 pm[/url]":uqs5rrbf]
If You put a offset key in your cam sprockets and advance your cams you can drop your torque curve down to around 4k, pull the hills a little easier and not any loss on top end

Have you done this?
Advance the cams by how much?

 

[KYWinger]

+1

 

[joedrum]

well for 1 ... offset key sounds crazy as this weakens it ...but one could cut new keyway in different spot to do this and have no discount .....it seems the longer stroke of hooch has somehow put this in play on my bike with 1200 motor and early cams ....but anyway you look at this ..it seems to me that the moving of cam without separation of lobes intake from exhaust has discounts along with it advantages ....this is why I havnt done anything to hooch ..moving it off TDC with 10degree overlap ...5 degrees each way from TDC

 

[ekvh]

What Joe suggests is what I have toyed with. If you had them cut a keyway as close to 180 out, plus or minus how much you want to advance it, it could be an advantage. I think a machine shop could do it. It's out for the hooched bikes unless you were to pull the heads and check valve clearances again. Advancing would cause the intake to open sooner and could collide with the piston. Even if it didn't, it might be too close and melt a new exhaust port through the oil galley. I guess my reading has shown that you would see a decline in the upper rpm ranges, but that might not be bad for these older girls. I think it would bump up operating compression range. The other way it could be done is to add 2 or 3 degrees width to the current keyway in the cam wheel and then use an offset key with the full thickness and a bit more added to the top. This would get away from the thinner offset key. Honda made a few models which had a cam gear with the same number of teeth as our wings. I was wondering if they fit and if they do, they sell adjustable cam gears for them.

 

[dan filipi]

Very interested what gains could be had by doing this.
My bike with the c5 and single carb improvments already would make an awesome machine.

 

[ekvh]

Like Travis pointed out, it would move the power band (or torque) down the rpm range. If you can tap into the power earlier, it doesn't have to wind out so much. It would be different than a 78-79, or the 1100 cams, in that you still have the longer durations of the early cams. It would close the intake valve a bit sooner to increase combustion pressure some. I think for most riding, having a lower rpm power band is what most would prefer. It changes the exhaust so it opens sooner allowing the piston to descend easier, it closes a bit sooner though and moves the overlap back a bit as well. It would be fun to try. I think a few guys at NGW have done it, but felt it didn't bring many noticeable changes to it. Fiddling with cams is trickier than I would have thought. LSA has an effect on changes as well.

The guys who have superchargers prefer 78-79's because the superchargers help the low end power and the high end power. There's something about how the different LSA helps them as well.

 

[joedrum]

ok I am dumb whats LSA ... I am surprised I have no need for low end power on hooch I have gobs and this is all timed at perfect TDC and early cams .... sheesh im trying figure why I have so much power down low ....and maybe some off the top ... with everything set right

 

[dan filipi]

joedrum » Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:14 am[/url]":2ywwhc0c]
ok I am dumb whats LSA ... I am surprised I have no need for low end power on hooch I have gobs and this is all timed at perfect TDC and early cams .... sheesh im trying figure why I have so much power down low ....and maybe some off the top ... with everything set right

The low gearing.

Power down up higher could be jetting of the single carb.

 

[joedrum]

yes lots on the table no clear vision yet till I get more testing done with carb and weather get better

 

[ekvh]

LSA= Lobe Separation Angle has a bit to do with when intakes and exhausts begin and end and with overlap. Nevermind my blahblah about cams. The more I try and understand them, the less I do. I agree the 1200 with a 2.6something first gear and a 3.40 rear differential needs no more low end power. A stock 1100 could use it, IMO and definitely the stock 1000. The 1100 in a 1000 rear end is a good swap too. It's the lack of a true first gear that keeps the 1000 from keeping people happy. I think the 1000 is an awesome bike above 30 mph. It needs some different gearing.

 

[joedrum]

ekvh » Wed Jan 08, 2014 4:39 pm[/url]":19w3wp4f]
LSA= Lobe Separation Angle has a bit to do with when intakes and exhausts begin and end and with overlap. Nevermind my blahblah about cams. The more I try and understand them, the less I do. I agree the 1200 with a 2.6something first gear and a 3.40 rear differential needs no more low end power. A stock 1100 could use it, IMO and definitely the stock 1000. The 1100 in a 1000 rear end is a good swap too. It's the lack of a true first gear that keeps the 1000 from keeping people happy. I think the 1000 is an awesome bike above 30 mph. It needs some different gearing.

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: at least its what I was talking about that makes me feel ok about it :mrgreen:

 

[chilidawg]

I did tell you guys my questions would be numerous!

Does anyone know the Gates equivalent # for the GL1100, hopefully it's T274 cos that's what I just ordered from Amazon for $15 a piece, now I got some information from NGW that it's the T275, although Amazon throughs up a red flag (THIS WILL NOT FIT YOUR 1982 HONDA GL1100I) when I look that part # up, anyone know?

Thanks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... mnsXTMLzCE

 

[slabghost]

My notes say the T274 is the right one for the 1000 and 1100 motors.

 

[Steve83]

Yup, T274.

 

[chilidawg]

Thanks Fellas... :wave: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... IKDVHyffXs

 

[chilidawg]

Okay! Now I'm scouring the web on account of this article:- https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/g ... e_id=13450

Looking for a set of feeler gauges that differentiate between 0.1mm & 0.13mm, I can get 0.1mm but the nearest I can find to 0.13mm is 0.15mm.

I'm gonna grind the valve stem ends flat to get rid of any dishing issues on the exhaust valves that I have to use again, due new ones being unavailable, so after 135K miles it ought to sound better than it does now.

If a .13 is not available which one would you use? The .1 or the .15, or should I even be so concerned about it?

https://americaloveshorsepower.com/suv-v ... sepower%29