coilsmay be faulty .....Is the neon coil pack an alternative

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crowhorse

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Hi guys... 1977 GL1000 running on 2 cylinders ...the 2 back cylinders not firing... I suspect the coils ..Am I right in that the coils is set up to run the 2 fr.cylinders. and the 2 back cylinders.. ? I was reading about the neon coil pack conversion ..has anyone here done it ? I am off the road and don't like it..... well I have read on Steve saunders site that the neon conversion has worked .. However not much on a 1977 GL1000 conversion... Just putting it out there with limited funds a
Has anyone installed neon coils ? What I have read those that have done the neon conversion, are happy with the results ..better spark, smoother running etc...
Thanks for any help..
 
I believe that the later high output coils will burn through points fairly quickly :doh:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=85524#p85524:1lirnlqt said:
Ansimp » Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:38 pm[/url]":1lirnlqt]I believe that the later high output coils will burn through points fairly quickly :doh:
Yeah I couldn't really advise running with points but others here can better than I.
 
well,I am not sure it the coils anyway...I had been driving in rain and downpours..everything could be just soaked... the coils I am sure get at least damp, but I am sure more than that..so I am not certain.......I feel I should start with new plugs and plug wires....although the plug wire look newish...I did cut the ends off 1/2 inch and put them back together......seemed to run a little better.. ,but still some lack of power but did seem better.. How about new condenser and points.?.., It can't hurt, but rule out.... What are the fuse like things inside the spark plug boot behind the screw out of the spark plug boot ? It looks like a fuse? what is that? I mention these things because you guys may know the symptoms better than me.. Thanks
 
Condensors rarely cause any trouble they either work or don't. Cleaning and setting points or replacing them can help. Fuse like thing I think is the resistor portion of the plug caps. If you don't use a radio they can be replaced with solid copper wire I've read and intend to do myself but I haven't been there yet. Adding relay to power the coils is an effective way to boost spark. I did that with my KZ with points and it does run stronger.
 
wires and ends are useally what gets degraded from rain along with coils sometimes it days for it to dry out ...it all needs to be upgraded id say ...but will be fine in low moisture conditions that's how they get so bad .....
 
Try some WD spray around those plug wire joints before you take it out during wet conditions next time.
 
Joe Drum ...what upgrades could I or should I do...?? I will upgrade just not sure which ones, to do...II have only bought new spark plugs, so I am ready to get back on 2 wheels it has cost me alot in gas for my 4 wheels to get to work... so let me know what you think ? I read so much about the neon coil pack I was ready but you say it wont, work on my 1977 wing..
 
It will work, but you'll need additional ballasts. A better way if you have electronic ignition is the 1500 coils Dan mentioned. If you still have points, you will need some ballast resistor to keep the coils from getting too warm.
 
A ballast resistor for an older Dodge might be just what you need. Using the stock wiring for the bike having the start button power coils during start then run through the ballast. That should cut voltage to coils during run to around 7 volts. This should prevent the points from pitting.
 
I am confused is it being suggested to use a ballast resistor on high output 12v coils? :doh:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=85724#p85724:1820khdf said:
Ansimp » Wed Jun 19, 2013 10:51 pm[/url]":1820khdf]I am confused is it being suggested to use a ballast resistor on high output 12v coils? :doh:
:smilie_happy: Yes. Do you know another way for it to work with points ignition?
 
You need to be using an 8volt coil or resistor type coil, otherwise you are reducing the output of the high output coil dramatically.
 
I'm no eks spurt so you are likely right. However most of the cars I started with many moons ago had the 12volt coils that ran with resistor and points ignition. If memory serves and it often doesn't I think some even had 6v coils that ran 12volts to start. I was just suggesting a way to use the neon coils with points ignition.
 
well, thanks for the help so far.... Took off the point cover,to check the points.. and I dont see any points that Iam used to seeing... I think it has a CDI ...Thats what a friend had suggested.. I will post a picture.. It has little springs and little round metal
studs that look like they make contact,during some motion...I do not know what this means in my quest to get it running again on all 4 cyl ...
 
Here is the photo of the what I expected to be points.... The springs don seem the same tension and weak... ,but maybe thats how they are supposed to be... any help I would appreciate ....
 

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=86028#p86028:3ov7albu said:
slabghost » Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:11 pm[/url]":3ov7albu]Looks like you took off the ignition altogether. That's the mechanical advance.
Yep, no ignition there :headscratch:

Those springs are difficult if even possible to tell if the tension is ok or if the tension is even on them.
I wouldn't be concerned about that.
 

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