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My 91 was bought new & didn't take me long to figure out the oil filters for the Civics, fit bike quite well, MUCH less expensive, & much more available. Many of the people I spoke with were not going to risk it for a few bucks saved, & i agree that less expensive is often not a better solution. But with 140,000+ looks like it might work out. This is before I knew about Randaks oil filter conversion plate to use a car filter on 1200s, was my grin big, & have never said a word. Only thing with the A T F that made me wonder about it for brake fluid was & is the fact your motor & engine get quite warm to evaporate condensed moisture. Your brake fluid or A T F does not, & just how long between fluid change is too long, & does A T F absorb moisture? you can't change fluids too often & do harm can you? Not trying to be difficult, but don't want to step on my di-- ether, it hurts.
 
Brake fluid can get quite hot very quickly slowing on long hills. I've used ATF successfully in oil and fuel I may just try it as brake fluid too. The cleaners in the atf can't hurt and it does handle very high temps in transmissions.
 
The only problem I see with using a different fluid to designated is when it ends up mixed with the designated fluid by mistake :(
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147966#p147966:1uqe1uww said:
bronko37 » 5 minutes ago[/url]":1uqe1uww]
So do you guys routinely run atf in your engine oil? I use it in my gas but not in my oil at all.
I don't because I think it's too thin for these motors so it wouldn't provide enough oil layer.
As a motor flush is one thing but not all the time.
 
I do but I don't know of anyone else. I routinely add up to half a quart and run it until the next oil change. Never had a problem with it. My 1200 has had about 8-12 oz in it since I got the bike on the road 3 years ago. Umm note to self better change the oil soon.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147971#p147971:1lguz3xb said:
slabghost » 5 minutes ago[/url]":1lguz3xb]
I do but I don't know of anyone else. I routinely add up to half a quart and run it until the next oil change. Never had a problem with it. My 1200 has had about 8-12 oz in it since I got the bike on the road 3 years ago. Umm note to self better change the oil soon.
What are the benefits of running 8-12 oz atf in the engine?
 
I just use ATF the last 100 miles or so before oil change. Sometimes I run a pint at oil change in my F250 for 6K miles but I agree...too thin for high percentage use in anything.

I can't say about rubber seals swelling because I have never noticed it if it did occur. I'm pretty sure nitrile seals are not effected by ATF.

I've had what I believe is good experiences with ATF...your mileage may vary!!
 
Just thinking out loud...has anyone tied both front and rear brakes together on 1100's using the front lever for actuation? The foot room on the pegs is kinda small and I have found my right foot on the rear brake pedal a couple times by accident. Seems that it wouldn't be too hard to accomplish with a "T" and some line.
 
It could be done but I doubt the front master has enough capacity to operate both front and back. Some kind of prportioning valve should also be used.
 
Yes, I was thinking 70% front.

Is it volume or is it pressure that provides actuation of the piston in the caliper?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147978#p147978:2ti8r5iy said:
Lowrider » Sun May 03, 2015 10:45 pm[/url]":2ti8r5iy]
Just thinking out loud...has anyone tied both front and rear brakes together on 1100's using the front lever for actuation? The foot room on the pegs is kinda small and I have found my right foot on the rear brake pedal a couple times by accident. Seems that it wouldn't be too hard to accomplish with a "T" and some line.
You would need a proportioning valve to send more to the front less to the rear, the front will require a little more braking then the rear given it`s 2 lines and twin disk and further run. They probably make them for special applications but your giving up control and with the brakes thats not good.
And yes as Slab said, a bigger M/C.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147984#p147984:10nqp4o5 said:
Lowrider » Mon May 04, 2015 9:07 am[/url]":10nqp4o5]
Yes, I was thinking 70% front.

Is it volume or is it pressure that provides actuation of the piston in the caliper?
Actually both. Need the volume to push the caliper pistons and pressure to hold pads tight against the rotors.
 
My ST1300 had proportioned brakes and they were actuated by the front lever or rear pedal and they were wonderful!!

I'm rebuilding my front brakes to include new stainless lines so maybe I'll have all the brakes I need in most cases with the new parts.

I don't have a lot of room on the right peg to move my foot without being on top of the rear brake pedal and my boots don't give any feedback on whether I'm on the brake. If the front brakes are adequate I may look for a longer rear brake pedal instead of putting them together.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147972#p147972:1yt16zl5 said:
dan filipi » Sun May 03, 2015 8:28 pm[/url]":1yt16zl5]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147971#p147971:1yt16zl5 said:
slabghost » 5 minutes ago[/url]":1yt16zl5]
I do but I don't know of anyone else. I routinely add up to half a quart and run it until the next oil change. Never had a problem with it. My 1200 has had about 8-12 oz in it since I got the bike on the road 3 years ago. Umm note to self better change the oil soon.
What are the benefits of running 8-12 oz atf in the engine?
The benefits are much the same as running ATF in the fuel. It helps keep the motor sparkling clean inside. Automatic transmissions are like hydraulic computers where tiny passages are like wires and the fluid like electricity doing the work. So passages must stay clean. They also employ wet clutches very similar to those in our bikes so I think that is also an added benefit.
 
Agree to use as a flush maybe up to 8oz or so & easy run for 100 miles or so & change, should help dissolve the gook in your motor if any. Do remember when I was young back in last century, old timers talking about a quart of kerosene in your oil before your car oil change, dump a quart if your not low, but you were probably low, vehicles used oil back then, or mine did. Run the car but not hard, a good while. Being careful not to get it hot, as the oil was dirty, & thinned to melt the sludge in your motor. Similar type of thing, don't think a small amount would hurt in your at oil change, maybe 4oz would help clean any build up inside if any.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147990#p147990:2v6wtt3s said:
Lowrider » Tue May 05, 2015 12:32 am[/url]":2v6wtt3s]
My ST1300 had proportioned brakes and they were actuated by the front lever or rear pedal and they were wonderful!!

I'm rebuilding my front brakes to include new stainless lines so maybe I'll have all the brakes I need in most cases with the new parts.

I don't have a lot of room on the right peg to move my foot without being on top of the rear brake pedal and my boots don't give any feedback on whether I'm on the brake. If the front brakes are adequate I may look for a longer rear brake pedal instead of putting them together.

I believe that your ST1300 has a version of Honda's Dual Linked Braking system as featured on the later CBR's, I personally don't think all the complexity is worth the effort ( different sized pistons for front or rear actuation, an inline master cyl and lots of plumbing) and I need to be able to drag the back brake for traction control on the Dreaded Driveway :yes:
 
You're probably right, but when I bought it I loved it and I didn't need to engineer it. Mine always gave me good equal braking to keep the bike from diving on a hard stop. The thing I noticed most was that my wife's helmet seldom came banging into mine when I hit the brakes hard...that was worth the price of admission.

Denver,

ATF is much better than kero but I guess you were talking about times before automatic transmissions.
 
Agree about the A T F being better for your motor, never tried the kero idea, as my thought was it breaks the oil down too much. Haven't tried the A T F either, as I change oil & filter every 3,000 miles on everything, & the insides of motors is clean.
 

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