Doesn't seem right!

[zman]

Not really great on the brakes, OK but not great, sounds like the carbs are still buggered up. By taking them apart and cleaning them out I found allot can go wrong and they do need to be clean to perform properly, you can try a thousand or two more miles but if nothing gets better you should consider a complete rebuild, these bikes have some tiny angular passageways,fuel and air paths that can be tough for additives to clean out not to mention plenty of rubber parts that dont last even just sitting will cause them to fail.
There is nothing like the feel of an 1100 with properly working and tuned carburetors. If you do tear into them be sure and clear out the accelerator pump passageways, hair tiny nozzles and the first to clog, especially if the float filters fail.
Bike looks nice.

 

[Lowrider]

I'll keep running the juice in the gas and see if it clears up or at least gets better. I haven't even burned a tank full yet so it's probably too early for me to expect any real clean out yet.

Anyone with thoughts on the head shake?

 

[julimike54]

Steering head bearings loose maybe, tire can cause also...seems like there was something else but danged if I can 'member
On the brakes I think your front is a one pot?, the 1200 is a twin pot caliper, just with front brake lever I can get a howl from the front tire stopping hard from speed. I have a single caliper on the front lever, if I apply all brakes it just stops hard, no howl, and you have to hang on so you don't visit the shelter :BigGrin:

 

[zman]

Lowrider » Tue Apr 28, 2015 8:46 pm[/url]":20w5pwgg]
I'll keep running the juice in the gas and see if it clears up or at least gets better. I haven't even burned a tank full yet so it's probably too early for me to expect any real clean out yet.

Anyone with thoughts on the head shake?

if your tires sat you may have a flat spot, might spin and look round but under the weight of the bike it could be out of round. Also a wheel out of alignment or bad/loose wheel bearings, a brake pad hanging up could cause some.
I have the same trouble with mine, I think its a flat spot cause my bike sat 23 years and had a spot in the tire but when I aired it up and started riding it it became round but I think its still weak in that spot, bought a new one just haven't got to it yet...Hoping it solves it , I`ll keep you posted on what solves my shake.
Heard also many have it but I just cant see Honda letting something like that go without correcting it.

 

[Lowrider]

Yes Sir, I believe it is a single piston on the front. Guess the answer is to get new pads front and rear...I like to be able to stop when I want to.

Could be the tire. My DRZ 400 does the same thing at 65 and over. I tried all sort of things to stop it and I never could figure out what it was until I took the windshield off one day and it stopped. I changed the angle on the windshield and solved the problem. I'll check the front end tomorrow and see if I can figure it out.

Thanks for the ideas!!

 

[Terry]

Sounds like some gummed carb jets on idle and ridability issues.
If your wing is an 81 or older it has the single piston calipers versus 2 piston calipers of later models.
While mild decel headshake on large longer wheelbase bikes is fairly common, it can also be from cupped (scalloped) tires and improperly torqued steering head bearings.

Lowrider » Yesterday, 9:00 pm[/url]":1xftu6kx]
Well, got the old girl out today for a 60 mile run and she did just fine for the most part. I did notice some surging at 4K rpm while running down the road and a little bit of stumbling off-idle when starting out in 1st gear to the point of it stalled once and I damn near dropped the bike as a result.

Also, the brakes did not seem provide better than just "OK" braking. It may be the brake pads since they are original I believe. Discs are fine. Should I be getting wheel lock-up performance from them?

I also noticed a little "head shake" at 35 mph when I let go of the handle bars. Normal?

I must say she rides nice and comfortably and handles well for a heavier bike. It does well on slow curves below 40 mph and of course, does just fine on the highway at any reasonable speed. She's the best investment I've made lately!!

 

[Lowrider]

Terry,

Will the 83 or newer calipers fit on the earlier bikes? The brakes on my ST 1300 were wonderful and I think I would retrofit newer brakes if I can easily.

Tires look to be fine but I realize there may be issues that don't show on the outside, but if they were cupped or had a flat spot, wouldn't that show up more so at higher speeds? They run nice and smooth at higher speeds, but maybe the speed makes them round and the slowing allows the tire to deform. I'll do some playing with it to see if I can figure out what's up. Maybe you're right about the torque but I checked the front end with the bike on the center stand and it seemed just fine.

 

[Terry]

I didn't mean to come off as some GL 1100 expert or guru, but I have owned many big bikes and serviced them all.
However, the GL 1100 is my recent acquisition and I am still researching and learning it's quirks.
Related experience:
I owned a 2006 Wing for 4 years and 46000 miles and did all the servicing to it and it was much more technically advanced than these older bikes.
This is my first really old bike, I have mine all apart maintenancing it, and getting familiar with it.
Is the retrofit of 1982 and later calipers and rotors possible? Answer: I don't know, someone on here will.

Lowrider » 4 minutes ago[/url]":mkp6xis9]
Terry,

Will the 83 or newer calipers fit on the earlier bikes? The brakes on my ST 1300 were wonderful and I think I would retrofit newer brakes if I can easily.

Tires look to be fine but I realize there may be issues that don't show on the outside, but if they were cupped or had a flat spot, wouldn't that show up more so at higher speeds? They run nice and smooth at higher speeds, but maybe the speed makes them round and the slowing allows the tire to deform. I'll do some playing with it to see if I can figure out what's up. Maybe you're right about the torque but I checked the front end with the bike on the center stand and it seemed just fine.

 

[Lowrider]

Understand...I've been riding since 1964 and I'm not an expert on any of them! We do seem to pick up some ideas and experience along the way that helps us understand machines...sometimes it helps.

We'll see if someone else can tell us.

 

[Denver]

Front ends work WELL, when everything involved is in good shape. :yes: Steering head bearings, 4 bushings, 2 outer, & 2 inner, 4 piston rings, oil of right weight, springs, & tires, come to mind. :read: When EVERYTHING is right you can release the bars at 35 or what ever speed you were having issues at. While crossing R R tracks, bumps, or other typical imperfections with the throttle closed, & front the wheel wont shake but track well, if road conditions are in reasonable shape. :good:

 

[Lowrider]

The Honda shop in Spokane put new springs and seals in the front and new air shocks on the rear in July 13 and the bike was only ridden 200 miles since then. I can see nothing abnormal in the front. Don't know if they checked torque on front. I'll see what I can find out about that. I think I said the bike hadn't been ridden in 18 years...well, I was wrong... the fellow had owned it for 18 years and had it serviced by the Honda shop...not that that means it was done correctly.

Sounds like the front pads may be glazed. There is plenty of meat left, just not the stopping power I would expect in the front with dual discs, even with a single piston. I'll try to find new pads and change them. Rear probably should be done too.

 

[bronko37]

In the long haul, if that bike has been sitting (or not really) it is a worth while investment to completely overhaul the brake system. I did it on my '84 and on my '76 and both were some of the best dollars I put in to these bikes. Rebuild the cylinders, calipers, and replace the lines and you know everything will be good. The brakes on my '84 didnt seem that bad but when I took it all apart you should have seen the gunk in everything. There were also 2 lines that I couldnt even blow air through @90psi!

If they work well enough, enjoy it for awhile before you tear it down. Im just sayin, if its a bike you are going to keep for any length of time, you will be glad you did it.

Shimmy could be a bunch of things. Start with the obvious stuff, if the rubber is bad or old, just replace it. Tires are the only thing holding you up on a bike. Well worth the $300 to do the tires...

 

[Lowrider]

I'm leaning that way Bronk. Is there a usual source for rebuild parts/pads?

The tires were replaced in 13 too so they look great. I looked for cracks, cuts and so on and they are OK I believe. I'm kinda paranoid of tire failure...I had a sidewall cut on my DRZ at about 30 mph in rocks and that was not any fun.

I'm also thinking of an AM/FM with CD player radio. I have a MP3 player but it isn't loud enough for the bike with a half helmet. Anyone have any favorites?

 

[bronko37]

I sent you a PM with my parts supplier contact information. I order all my brake lines from Randakk's site. Really nice stuff.

https://randakks.com/products/stainless- ... rake-lines

I think you are making the right call. I did all that to mine over the winter and I am really glad I did it. It's a worthy investment.

 

[Ansimp]

Lowrider » Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:36 pm[/url]":2dj2fj0v]
The Honda shop in Spokane put new springs and seals in the front and new air shocks on the rear in July 13 and the bike was only ridden 200 miles since then. I can see nothing abnormal in the front. Don't know if they checked torque on front. I'll see what I can find out about that. I think I said the bike hadn't been ridden in 18 years...well, I was wrong... the fellow had owned it for 18 years and had it serviced by the Honda shop...not that that means it was done correctly.

Sounds like the front pads may be glazed. There is plenty of meat left, just not the stopping power I would expect in the front with dual discs, even with a single piston. I'll try to find new pads and change them. Rear probably should be done too.

The single pot calipers are not as good as the 82 dual pot calipers and I plan a retrofit in the future. I felt that my front brakes were down in performance even though I have fitted a higher pressure CBR MC. Recently they have started performing better and I wonder if some how I still had some air in the system and it has finally bled out. Riding one of my CBRs makes me wonder if the Rats Nest actually has front brakes at all :smilie_happy:

 

[Lowrider]

Thanks Bronk!!

 

[zman]

One thing you can do to check if it is a tire, find a very smooth and flat parking lot and drive a strait line slow as possible , If its a tire you`ll feel it in the handle bars and will correspond to the rotation of the tire. Least mine does, very subtle at these speeds but can be felt.

 

[Lowrider]

Good idea Jeff...I'll try it.

 

[Psycrow]

I have an 80 GL1100. New pads, fresh fluid and a good bleeding should get those front brakes up to snuff but if your still wanting more bite swap out those old rubber hoses before replacing calipers. Should replace those old hoses anyways but consider some shinny SS braided lines. As for the headshake it could be steering head bearings but My bet is the front tire. Replace it before you go messing with anything else is my advise. Mine was doing the same thing on my old tire even tho it didnt look cupped. New rubber and the front is now smooth. Good luck and go slow one change at a time will eliminate your problems.

Psy

 

[Denver]

Always liked the single piston set up as pistons were protected by a rubber boot like a car, & if boot was in good shape piston was too & needed no cleaning of piston before pushing back in. You have REAL PROBLEMS with brakes if you don't clean pistons before pushing back in on later twin piston calipers. As many people have found out brakes will not release & pads wear out quickly & every thing gets hot.