Front brakes are mushy, what should I try?

[dan filipi]

Check plug wires firing order.
If coil primary wiring is connected per the wiring schematics to the correct coil, firing order is 4-3-2-1 left to right of coils.

 

[chuck c]

dan filipi » Thu Jul 21, 2016 9:54 pm[/url]":1mf6xjk8]
Check plug wires firing order.

yeah, that's the next step. It's possible with all the on-and-off of the manifold some wires got crossed if I got tired and sloppy.

 

[chuck c]

Mucho gracias to mcgovern61 for diagnosing my problem. It appears I messed up putting the master cylinder back together. The key fact is the lever doesn't return fast as it should. It's very slow. I thought I copied the way it was but even that's no guarantee it was right before I opened it. Recall the front tire was mounted backwards and the rear wiring was a fire waiting to happen under my butt.

I got it apart without taking the Lord's name in vain. I need the know the correct directions the seals and spring should face. The best I've found so far is this screen shot of a Honda CB MS being reassembled. It looks like the Goldwing. It has that little star-shaped spring on the end of the plunger which the video says is a valve. Does anyone know what it does?

Anyway, I had the spring in backwards and the CB shows a cup in the end of the spring. Mine did not have one in the ms or the rebuild kit. I don't know if I'm missing a part. I think I did have all the seals in right. Would having that spring the wrong way prevent it from building pressure?

 

[mcgovern61]

Chuck, I know we discussed the return hole and you were looking down inside at a port, but I want to be sure that the port you were looking at was not the main port only. Riding back home I gave the return hole some second thoughts and those tiny flecks we saw could block the return. The return port is actually the really tiny hole, not the larger port. You do good work so I doubt you missed it, but It might beat pulling the MC apart again.

There still is a good just the one seal is in backwards, but check that hole one more time. I would not hesitate to pull the reservoir to get a closer look. Had fun today, but it sure was hot riding back down 76! :heat:

 

[julimike54]

Well if you have the CB MS then the following pages aren't much use
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1158&image_id=11697
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1158&image_id=11698

because they don't show the same assembly as your screen shot. :headscratch:

 

[mcgovern61]

I think this gives a good view of both holes:

 

[mcgovern61]

Here is the MC diagram:

GL1100 79-81 Haynes Workshop Manual Page 142

• WindNWing
• Oct 15, 2012

 

[chuck c]

Even at 300% I can't see which way the spring is supposed to go. Big end to cup or small end to cup?

 

[chuck c]

mcgovern61 » Sat Jul 23, 2016 2:52 pm[/url]":19zl0vgo]
I think this gives a good view of both holes:

I didn't know what hole was what and I didn't see that tiny on on the right. So NO, I did NOT get the return hole. There's no way to get it without removing the reservoir. It must come off! I gutted the ms without taking it off the bike. The bike will help hold it while I pry.

 

[joedrum]

manuals always flipped me out ...pics are always small ...black and white ...and of the poorest quality ...no matter what ....

 

[joedrum]

thats no true chuck ...early in the thread ..... i think V mentioned the the power return hole clearing method ....

 

[joedrum]

with one brake off the other on ....use c clamp to pump piston out as far as you can with out popping it out ...then with lever in out position twist pressure on c clamp ...the only place fluid can go then is through return hole ...c clamp may seem to not move but give it a minute twist again ...it will clear the return hole. has to ..no way can the plug withstand the push long long ...and then the clamp will squeeze piston all the way in ...return hole cleared ..plain and simple

 

[Terry]

Here is a decent picture of the piston/plunger/spring assembly

https://goo.gl/images/DLPcFO

 

[chuck c]

Reservoir removed, hole cleared. Yes, it was very plugged. Now I just need to know which way the spring goes.

 

[chuck c]

joedrum » Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:35 pm[/url]":z7emuf60]
thats no true chuck ...early in the thread ..... i think V mentioned the the power return hole clearing method ....

Yes, you did and it appears you were dead right. But I didn't know where it was or what to look for. I thought I did it but I was working on the wrong spot. I needed the thing pointed out to me.

 

[chuck c]

Terry » Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:51 pm[/url]":194fnuri]
Here is a decent picture of the piston/plunger/spring assembly

https://goo.gl/images/DLPcFO

Excellent, thanks. That confirms I had it backwards. Now with the return hole cleared and the spring in right, I'll try again.

 

[chuck c]

Since last post I reassembled the master, fully primed it, clamped the pistons in, turned them so the valve is upright, and bled like my sanity depended on it. My sanity lost. :head bang:

 

[slabghost]

Okay are you pumping up pressure then briefly opening the bleeder while hold the lever against the bar? Or just what is the procedure you are using?

 

[chuck c]

Note I started with an air-free system as mcgovern61 will attest.
First, I purged and primed the master by connecting a cut-off hose to it and looping it back into the reservoir and pumped until there were no more air bubbles, then pumped some more. Then quickly attached the real hose.

Second, I squeezed the pistons with clamps in to force fluid up into the master to get out any bubbles trapped in the top of the hose while it was disconnected.

Third, I pinched both lines to confirm the master was working and had no air in the upper line. The lever was rock solid unmoveable.

Forth, I released alternating sides so only one at a time was open to flow, removed the calipers and set them so the valves were straight up, put clear hose on the bleeders to my catch jar, and I pumped the lever and opened the bleeders quickly. I did this a lot. Got nothing but fluid. The lever is not too bad on one side but still mush on the other so of course with both lines open, soft.

The good news is the lever is returning as fast as it should now.

 

[mcgovern61]

Chuck, is it still the right side caliper that is mushy? I wonder if the the seal on the piston on that side might be letting air in?

At the master, try this. take the cap off the reservoir and slowly pull the handle in and out. Be sure you see fluid moving up and down in the master as you pump the handle.