Fuse block

[scdmarx]

I keep blowing the fuse for my tail light. The OEM Honda light and lower light bar. I'll put a fuse in before I leave, but when I get back it's blown and I'm dark in the back. Happens with every fuse I put in there. Brake lights and turn signals still work fine. So today I attatched my little fuse buddy ammeter to the fuse holder so I could watch what happens. With the fuse removed, ammeter secured with aligator clips. At 4k rpm's it reads 7.4 amps. With turn signals flashing it reads 6.4ish amps. I don't see the problem. At the moment I'm questioning the integrity of the fuse holders. Maybe a bad connection?????? Are these rebuildable? Anybody ever done such a thing and know where to buy the stuff? Up grades? Any ideas come to mind about my fuse problem?
Just thought I'd ask first before I start tearing things up.

In case you don't know what a Fuse Buddy is:
https://www.gadgetjq.com/fuse_buddy.htm
It's a hady little tool. I think eveybody should have one.

 

[AApple]

I've got a set of Fuse Buddies, too....great invention, imo.
Could be that the contact area for the fuses is corroded. Might give them all a wipe or two with some scotch-brite, or fine emery cloth.
I've seen aftermarket fuse blocks...kinda a "one size fits all" deal, but they are available in several different configurations, depending on how many fuses you need to run. I think Aerostich has the ones I saw.

 

[scdmarx]

I've got a set of Fuse Buddies, too....great invention, imo.
Could be that the contact area for the fuses is corroded. Might give them all a wipe or two with some scotch-brite, or fine emery cloth.
I've seen aftermarket fuse blocks...kinda a "one size fits all" deal, but they are available in several different configurations, depending on how many fuses you need to run. I think Aerostich has the ones I saw.

I did try a wire tooth brush and steel wool, then after another box of fuses I decided to ask here.
7.4A was the most I ever read on the Fuse Buddy for a couple days. So I started running a 15A fuse in place of the 10A that is supposed to be there. Been a couple days and everything seems ok so far. I wonder if the metal prongs that hold the fuse are just getting weak and don't spring shut tight like they should. I had the Fuse Buddy attatched with aligator clips that was pinching those prongs together. I would really like to upgrade to something like a mini fuse if I could. (and "if" that's where the problem is) It would be nice to fit something in there neatly like the original and keep the tool tray, and with the mini fuses I'd have more room to run more circuits fused.

 

[dan filipi]

I'd bet the fuses are loose causing them to get hot and blow early.

I never had the problem your having but I could feel the fuses getting hot so I replaced with a 5 blade fuse holder.
I posted the pic here somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

<Edit> It came with a plastic cover, guess that got lost.

I don't remember where I got this one but it was probably Pep Boys, Track auto or one of the other chains.

 

[joedrum]

more lights bigger fuse i guess ....i dont think the bigger fuse is going to hurt anything

that dan he changes everything :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :whistling: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

that dan he changes everything :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :whistling: :mrgreen:

It's what I do. :grin: :rocks:

 

[mcgovern61]

I like that!!! :music3: :music3: :music2: :music:

 

[Tomahawk]

My guess would be maybe on the rear running light circuit you have a small spot that has rubbed and when you hit a bump it intermittently shorts the circuit to ground.
I recommend checking the wiring a bigger fuse can be used but if in fact it is a short the possibility of a wiring fire exists.

Just a thought
Good luck finding your problem those little one can be hard to find

Cheers
Tom

 

[scdmarx]

I recommend checking the wiring a bigger fuse can be used but if in fact it is a short the possibility of a wiring fire exists.

You're right, I'd much rather fix the problem than to mask it with a bigger fuse. But with the amp meter in place for a couple days the most I ever saw was 7.4A. The reason for the 15A fuse to replace the 10A fuse is because it's all I got left after blowing through a couple boxes while dinking around. The aligator clips peenched it together for a couple days and now the fuse works fine. I'm still thinking there was a funky connection @ the fuse holder itself. The connectors feel kinda loose and squirrely. I'm not real comfortable with this fuse box setup. I'm feeling the need for an upgrade.

 

[Tomahawk]

I recommend checking the wiring a bigger fuse can be used but if in fact it is a short the possibility of a wiring fire exists.

You're right, I'd much rather fix the problem than to mask it with a bigger fuse. But with the amp meter in place for a couple days the most I ever saw was 7.4A. The reason for the 15A fuse to replace the 10A fuse is because it's all I got left after blowing through a couple boxes while dinking around. The aligator clips peenched it together for a couple days and now the fuse works fine. I'm still thinking there was a funky connection @ the fuse holder itself. The connectors feel kinda loose and squirrely. I'm not real comfortable with this fuse box setup. I'm feeling the need for an upgrade.

A bad fuse connector could certainly cause higher resistance causing the fuse to fail or if loose some slight arcing and blow the fuse. 15A is not excessive. 14 gauge wire will handle 15A easily and so I don't think you have to worry there.

I once blew a fuse on an old CB360 in the middle nowhere and wrapped the old one in cigarette foil to get home. The cause of the fuse blowing became very evident when all the insulation melted and the fuse block too lol :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

 

[toytender01]

:hi: I found one of the lights in the lrar lifht bar had a intermittant short on mine...found it the military way smoke test ... got tired of buying fuses about 10 soooo I used the aluminum foil trick and watched for smoke....NOT RECOMENDED but if nothing else works then it is desperation.....the thing about intermittant shorts is that when it happens it is alnost instantanious and even if you are watching a meter it is faster than the blink of an eye..you almost have to watch the fuse itself.....Good luck on finding the problem ...I sent 36 years in electronice and those are the most time consumming and dificult to diagnose once you fine it DAH.....Bob

 

[Tomahawk]

:hi: I found one of the lights in the lrar lifht bar had a intermittant short on mine...found it the military way smoke test ... got tired of buying fuses about 10 soooo I used the aluminum foil trick and watched for smoke....NOT RECOMENDED but if nothing else works then it is desperation.....the thing about intermittant shorts is that when it happens it is alnost instantanious and even if you are watching a meter it is faster than the blink of an eye..you almost have to watch the fuse itself.....Good luck on finding the problem ...I sent 36 years in electronice and those are the most time consumming and dificult to diagnose once you fine it DAH.....Bob

Yep intermittent shorts are the worse to trouble shoot and as you say. they happen in milli seconds. If the meter is digital it would'nt be able to read the short they just don't have a fast enough refresh rate.

Hope you find it

Tom

 

[slabghost]

I recommend checking the wiring a bigger fuse can be used but if in fact it is a short the possibility of a wiring fire exists.

I once blew a fuse on an old CB360 in the middle nowhere and wrapped the old one in cigarette foil to get home. The cause of the fuse blowing became very evident when all the insulation melted and the fuse block too lol :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

I've used foil from cigs a few times but I want it to fuse too so I tear it in the shape of an "H" and wrap the long ends at the fuse holders. It's always a guess what amperage it will handle but I've not burnt any wires yet.

 

[Tomahawk]

I once blew a fuse on an old CB360 in the middle nowhere and wrapped the old one in cigarette foil to get home. The cause of the fuse blowing became very evident when all the insulation melted and the fuse block too lol :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:[/quote][/quote]

I've used foil from cigs a few times but I want it to fuse too so I tear it in the shape of an "H" and wrap the long ends at the fuse holders. It's always a guess what amperage it will handle but I've not burnt any wires yet.[/quote]

Oh wow what a cool idea. I never thought of that

Tom

 

[BlueThunder]

Am I only the one that sees a potential dangerous fire here? A "hot" side (buss) is open and only fractions of an inch from the bike's ground. Not to mention the uninsulated terminals to the various circuits.

 

[dan filipi]

The hots in that picture look very close to ground because the picture was taken straight on.
In actuality there is little chance of them contacting ground and causing a short circuit or fire.
Keep in mind also that there is a main fuse at 30 amps before this block as well.

 

[Tomahawk]

Am I only the one that sees a potential dangerous fire here? A "hot" side (buss) is open and only fractions of an inch from the bike's ground. Not to mention the uninsulated terminals to the various circuits.

I see it now Good eye!!!! I would insulate that LOL

 

[joedrum]

hmmm!! inever realy look at it to hard ....fuses cause heat ...bringing a bunch of fuses together is more heat .....i never like the way most things are setup in most electrics....

 

[dan filipi]

If anyone knows of a fuse block where the fuses are not grouped together I'd be interested in it.
Then again the GL doesn't have much room to fit anything larger.

Where this fuse block is located below the accessories tray there is little chance of anything shorting across the terminals or to ground unless you drop a wrench in there LOL.

 

[Tomahawk]

If anyone knows of a fuse block where the fuses are not grouped together I'd be interested in it.
Then again the GL doesn't have much room to fit anything larger.

Where this fuse block is located below the accessories tray there is little chance of anything shorting across the terminals or to ground unless you drop a wrench in there LOL.

You can buy this stuff up here called liquid electrical tape. Paint it on and when it dries it's like heat shrink. Cool stuff