GL1000 Hard Start after sitting a while...

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Ansimp

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193661#p193661:tllgx96d said:
dan filipi » Tue Jul 25, 2017 6:24 am[/url]":tllgx96d]
It looks cool like that. Welds look nice too.
+1 :good:
 

joedrum

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Wow that an all the way mod for sure....if it was me I'd file the welds some to make more smooth ...looks to be plenty of weld there too list out ...and look like it was made that way....either way it does look great
 

desertrefugee

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OK. I lied. I was so close that I sweated it out (literally) and finished up.

And the deed is done. Not really a big deal (the most irritating and time consuming part was cobbling together a brass reducer for the fuel line).

Wanna know the best part of this? The bike has been sitting for over a week. I got everything buttoned up, hit the switch and waited five or ten seconds and...

...wait for it...

...the stinkin' bike fired right up.

Case closed. Well worth the time and sweat. And boy did I sweat in Arizona in July doing this job.
 

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desertrefugee

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In the interest of completeness (and because I dislike having wasted photos), I thought I'd throw this last shot up showing where I wired in the fuel pump relay.

I'm being reminded that with an electric fuel pump, it's a good idea to have a cut-out switch in the trigger circuit. Modern bikes use tip-over or bank angle sensors that kill both ignition and fuel pump. I did not do that and wired the trigger for the relay into the switched "accessory" circuit. I may re-think that. I don't want to add potential electrical gremlins to the ignition circuit, but there's some wisdom to having the machine die if it would happen to go down. As is, the fuel pump will dutifully keep pumping to try and keep the bowls full as long as the switch is on - even if the bike is laying on its side. Probably not good.

...but good enough for now! :smilie_happy:

IMG_5181 - Copy.JPG
 

joedrum

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Yah a concern for sure ... I will be hooking up an electric pump on hooch ...maybe today sometime I'm sure I'll be hooking up strait at first for testing to see if pump better than the stock pump
 

desertrefugee

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193676#p193676:30xt5ivn said:
dan filipi » Mon Jul 24, 2017 6:53 pm[/url]":30xt5ivn]
Nice.

Electric pump is the shit. Well worth the effort.

Oh man, ain't this the truth! Went for an early morning cruise today, and this old girl instantly sprang to life after being idle for almost a week. What a pleasure. Maybe I'll open the point gap back up. I narrowed it thinking that might've been part of the problem, but it was fueling all along.

The bad news is - I seem to be weeping from the weep hole.

Ugh. That'll finally give me an excuse to pull the front plate and install all the stainless hex head bolt kit I have - as I investigate the water pump.
 

rudolphwolven

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With my compl. reconditioned GL1000 K1 I had the same problem each time with the 1st starting in the new season after 6-7 months lay-off or after the storage of a couple of months.
Each time the electric starter had to turn quite a while before all 4 carbs were filled by the fuel pump and the engine was starting ......often accompanied with a sottished situation........and showing the first signs of life.........typically the behaviour of Classic Goldwings as far as I know.......

I now have a simple solution wich works quite well.........after max. approx. 3 attempts my engine fires up.

In the 2 pictures below (pls ignore the cans in both pictures) you can see the small plastic tube with a rattlecan adapter fitted on one end and a brass multi opening spray-nozzle on the other end.
This tube set which is used to spray tectyl etc. in the hollow chassis areas of a car is mounted on my bike in such a way that the spraynozzle is fed through the air infeed of the airfilter into the outer airfilter area ("box") of this.
Here I fastened it in some simple way.
The rattlecan adapter which has the proper size to also adapt the opening of a brake cleaner rattlecan or a start-help pressurized can is pushed under the upper tank lid of the faux tank.........the small plastic tube somewhere simply fixed in the region of the spring mechanism of the upper faux tank lid.

When I want to start my bike I connect a brake cleaner rattlecan to the rattlecan adapter and give my bike a shot of brakecleaner for approx 4 seconds.
As soon as i use the electric engine starter with the choke pulled, the brake cleaner which is highly flamable expands in the airfilter area rapidly and is picked up by the engine and ignited by the spark plugs........
The injected brake cleaner amount will let the engine fire and turn for about 3 seconds at a much higher rev. than the starter can.
It could be that you have to make another 1-2 attemps but than the engine starts running constantly.
It saves hard work for your starter and battery..........and your mood.

In fact, spraying some engine starting fluid in the airfilter box with a normal rattlecan would also work but the problem is that you can not reach the opening of the airfilter box.
Now you have a solution with a permanent located and fastened plastic tube plus 2 endparts........you only have to open the tank lid and connect the brake cleaner rattlecan.
Life suddenly is much easier as before.............I can strongly recommend this........also for "healthy" GL's, like mine.............
Of course it is assumed that all relevant accompanying parts and conditions are ok.


Valvoline-20110-Tectyl-ML-holle-ruimte-was-in-600ml-spuitbus-met-slange.jpg


c6bfab76bb.jpg
 

rudolphwolven

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Ref:...........I'll warn that the volatile expansion and explosion doing this could result in blowing a head gasket. Use sparingly.

Thank you, that is a good warning finger........I keep it in mind.

Regards,
Ruud
 

desertrefugee

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[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=194797#p194797:1uyrp56u said:
dan filipi » Wed Aug 16, 2017 3:38 pm[/url]":1uyrp56u]
I'll warn that the volatile expansion and explosion doing this could result in blowing a head gasket. Use sparingly.

Yep. I've been reluctant to use anything more volatile than a petroleum-based fluid (WD-40 works well) since severely wounding a GS1000 in the 80's. That one was expensive.

And I use verrrry little.
 

GLCox

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I know this is an old thread, but having the same issue, I have wondered if installing an inline squeeze pump between tank and fuel pump would work and be a simpler fix.
 

pidjones

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I know this is an old thread, but having the same issue, I have wondered if installing an inline squeeze pump between tank and fuel pump would work and be a simpler fix.
I did that on our old John Deere 216 garden tractor that often sets half a year or more between uses. Used to crank a long time to get fuel to the carb. Now, with an in-line squeeze bulb pump she fires right up.
 

desertrefugee

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Or go to an electric fuel pump. I did that on my GL1000 years ago and consider it to be one of the best mods I ever did. (Used a 1200 pump. Looks factory)
 

desertrefugee

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Ok. I am an idiot. I answered the fellow this morning stating that I'd done an electric fuel pump conversion some years ago.

Sheesh. This was the thread I posted when working through my hard start issues detailing the conversion! Didn't even notice (or remember).

Fire away...
 

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