dont get down this is really honda fault if its the marks ..we will get this right sheesh
GL1100 RATTLING NOISE
- Thread starter auctioneeral
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Dan I got the newer cam gear the first one in video. My left gear sitting on bike is at about 11 o-clock and right is at about 1 o-clock. And I will get better pictures tomorrow. Looking at these picture's from when I got bike. The little arrow doesn't line up with the mark on the outer gear mark in black.
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It can be a bit hard to tell from pictures exactly because of camera angles, but both those marks look one tooth off possibly.[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=145172#p145172:3llk3saw said:auctioneeral » 6 minutes ago[/url]":3llk3saw]
Dan I got the newer cam gear the first one in video. My left gear sitting on bike is at about 11 o-clock and right is at about 1 o-clock. And I will get better pictures tomorrow. Looking at these picture's from when I got bike. The little arrow doesn't line up with the mark on the outer gear mark in black.
Ok....one sure fire way to be absolutely certain you're using the correct marks is to remove the center timing gear nut and with a right angle square, the correct marks will be shown since they are 90 degrees from the keyway.
"I checked an idle jet on my 83 rack and there IS a hole all the way through it."
+1. There are holes here, too!
+1. There are holes here, too!
slabghost
Well-known member
80-81 are pressed in jets. The hole you see looking at them installed is a dead end. I used drywall screws in those holes and wire cutters to pry them out. Cleaned the tube from the bottom and the side holes of the tube and reinstalled them without removing the screw until they were reinstalled. Mine works just fine. Not sure on the racks with screw in jets how those are designed.
slabghost
Well-known member
Okay I've looked through the manuals here and none have a real cleaning procedure for the jets. Book says they are not removable clean with compressed air. Do not use metal to poke holes clear you'll enlarge holes. So you can believe what you choose.
I removed my 8 idle jets from 2 sets of carb racks with drywall screw. And each were closed at the same spot on each jet. The 4 idle jets in carbs on this bike I clean the clog from end to end on jet with small wire. Before I clean the idle jets I had these carbs on another motor and ran good.
I have mix feeling on if the idle jets are to be open from end to end with different people saying yes no.
I have mix feeling on if the idle jets are to be open from end to end with different people saying yes no.
slabghost
Well-known member
So far it seems i'm the only one saying no. Did you look at the manual and see where it says to blast air? it isn't at the jet from what i saw in the pictures. If the hole was supposed to be open you'd think or at least i do they'd recommend blasting air right in the end of the jets.
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2018 KLR 650
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Well all I know is the 83 jets but if you poked through using just a wire then they must be open end.
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It appears the left side is off 1 tooth.
Well guys in between rain drops this afternoon. I pulled carb rack. I replaced the 4 idle jets with the 4 that I had soaking.
And this motor runs better now with only little smoke out right exhaust pipe. But I still have a small rattle tapping noise. While I had it running at idle I pulled plug wires and #2 is the only one that did not change engine sound at all. I took a extra spark plug and connected it to the #2 wire and laid it on block and started motor, ran the same. But the spark plug laying on block spark would come and go, sometimes bright other times weak. So I'm thinking maybe #2 is not firing right.
video of it running today after changing 4 idle jets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuUG1c_5_wg
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuUG1c_5_wg[/video]
And this motor runs better now with only little smoke out right exhaust pipe. But I still have a small rattle tapping noise. While I had it running at idle I pulled plug wires and #2 is the only one that did not change engine sound at all. I took a extra spark plug and connected it to the #2 wire and laid it on block and started motor, ran the same. But the spark plug laying on block spark would come and go, sometimes bright other times weak. So I'm thinking maybe #2 is not firing right.
video of it running today after changing 4 idle jets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuUG1c_5_wg
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuUG1c_5_wg[/video]
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1998 GL1500c Val
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Sounds like coil or leads, I would swap my coils around to see if you move the problem.
I`m thinking there is more going on then possible bad spark, even with no spark the bike wouldn't make a noise like that.
Need to find that metallic sound first...I`m thinking it`s internal.
Need to find that metallic sound first...I`m thinking it`s internal.
I agree Jeff. There's more going on with the grinding noise. But I can't pin point it. I have try a pc. Of rubber hose in each and hold it against the block but that didn't work. I tried holding hand on block an nothing.
slabghost
Well-known member
Stethascope is cheap. But it does appear to me in the pics timing is off some.
you can sink a cylinder haftway down with plugs out ...on cylinder halfway down all halfway down....take the belts off ...
Well after closer looking at the timing marks and a very nice picture showing how the marks are to be. I take it that both of my are off a hair. So I will work on it Sunday.
Also pick up a timing gun, compression tester today.
Also pick up a timing gun, compression tester today.
gee i never finished that post before i sent it LOL ....plan sounds great
Well I had a very nice chat with Joe and Dan. They are great guy's.
Here's were I stand with this motor. Got a compression tester
#1 60 lbs. wet or dry
#2-4 145 lbs.
So while talking with Joe on the phone I started to remove right head to check out the valve's.
I'm going to put that motor off bike and take front cover off it and put the front cover on the other motor because of a bad water pump and see how that motor runs.
Here's were I stand with this motor. Got a compression tester
#1 60 lbs. wet or dry
#2-4 145 lbs.
So while talking with Joe on the phone I started to remove right head to check out the valve's.
I'm going to put that motor off bike and take front cover off it and put the front cover on the other motor because of a bad water pump and see how that motor runs.
OK guy's a real dumb question maybe.
With this motor, I'm working on. When I removed the head's the first time around. I tore things apart. I didn't mark crank for T-1 mark or anything.
When I installed everything back on motor and went to do the timing belts.
This is the way I did it.
I had all valves adjustments back all the way out loose.
I put the timing mark at T-1.
Installed timing belt on the left side with the marks line up with UP at top.
Then I installed right timing belt with marks. And crank was on T-1.
Then I adjusted #1 intake and exhaust #3 exhaust #4 intake.
then I turn motor clockwise till T-1 came up to mark.
then adjusted #2 intake exhaust #3 intake #4 exhaust.
And turn motor over serval times to see if anything was hitting.
That's how I did it.
The reason asking question is, I seen a post today stating to use T-1 and T-2 marks.
Why is there a T-2 mark for.
I was just thinking I should post the way I started out with this ratting motor
With this motor, I'm working on. When I removed the head's the first time around. I tore things apart. I didn't mark crank for T-1 mark or anything.
When I installed everything back on motor and went to do the timing belts.
This is the way I did it.
I had all valves adjustments back all the way out loose.
I put the timing mark at T-1.
Installed timing belt on the left side with the marks line up with UP at top.
Then I installed right timing belt with marks. And crank was on T-1.
Then I adjusted #1 intake and exhaust #3 exhaust #4 intake.
then I turn motor clockwise till T-1 came up to mark.
then adjusted #2 intake exhaust #3 intake #4 exhaust.
And turn motor over serval times to see if anything was hitting.
That's how I did it.
The reason asking question is, I seen a post today stating to use T-1 and T-2 marks.
Why is there a T-2 mark for.
I was just thinking I should post the way I started out with this ratting motor
