Head Gasket Replacement - What else while your in there

[joedrum]

slabghost » Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:48 am[/url]":l9d3un0j]
Removing the rockers is a good idea. Without them even a bad belt install will be harmless. I'd leave the rockers off until the belts are installed properly and verified. Too much play in the rockers will make valve adjustment difficult. So it's worth checking.

hmmmm this is cool I think ...sheesh ... this is a new way to put belts on oldwings with no stuggle ....hmmmm and get the rockers and shafts switch to new surface .... sheesh its early in the morning but I think im thinking right

this might be the best way ever to change belts and get tensioned right im diffinitly going to try it .... :music: :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[importcustomx]

Good to know about the rockers and Cam Seals.

Anyone have good place to buy Head gaskets from? I cant really find an exact answer online..dont want to order gaskets and have everything be all wrong.

 

[dan filipi]

TychoRVT » Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:15 pm[/url]"o5756hk]
Along with this head gasket discussion, the shop manual calls for the rocker arms to be removed along with the cam shaft. It then goes on to describe the process for checking tolerances for diameter. Is all that necessary if I'm only replacing the head gasket? Can't I remove the head with the rockers and cams in place?

To answer your question, if all your doing is replacing head gaskets then no need to remove the cams and rockers.
The heads can come off with them in place.

When the heads are off though it's a good time to inspect it good, lap the valves, check valve guides, replace seals,
for that then the cam and rockers need to be off.

 

[mickster]

EBay, do a search for oem head gasket

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

 

[importcustomx]

dan filipi » Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:00 am[/url]":2r1y663h]

TychoRVT » Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:15 pm[/url]":2r1y663h]
Along with this head gasket discussion, the shop manual calls for the rocker arms to be removed along with the cam shaft. It then goes on to describe the process for checking tolerances for diameter. Is all that necessary if I'm only replacing the head gasket? Can't I remove the head with the rockers and cams in place?

To answer your question, if all your doing is replacing head gaskets then no need to remove the cams and rockers.
The heads can come off with them in place.

When the heads are off though it's a good time to inspect it good, lap the valves, check valve guides, replace seals,
for that then the cam and rockers need to be off.

thanks for the recap of info

In regards to buying off ebay, i have looked but there isnt much on there that looks promising except for those crap sabercycle ones

 

[joedrum]

crap gaskets is all ive ever been able to afford ... there biggest problem is there one head bolt cut out off some

 

[AApple]

I got my OE head gaskets from this guy on ebay. Perfect fit, and good price. I bought a complete gasket set from someone else, but the head gaskets weren't even CLOSE to being correct...so I found this feller who had the OE stuff. :good:


You can see the difference in the gaskets(OE vs. aftermarket) in the pics in my Gallery....

gwhdin4

• AApple
• Jul 8, 2012

Aftermarket gasket bore size is far smaller than the OE gasket. That don't sound like a good idea...

btw...if you pull the rockers off to do the belts...what the heck holds the cams in? :headscratch:

 

[Dusterdude]

Cometic,if you go aftermarket


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[importcustomx]

AApple » Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:50 am[/url]":3oynqgj3]
I got my OE head gaskets from this guy on ebay. Perfect fit, and good price. I bought a complete gasket set from someone else, but the head gaskets weren't even CLOSE to being correct...so I found this feller who had the OE stuff. :good:


You can see the difference in the gaskets(OE vs. aftermarket) in the pics in my Gallery....

gwhdin4

• AApple
• Jul 8, 2012

Aftermarket gasket bore size is far smaller than the OE gasket. That don't sound like a good idea...

btw...if you pull the rockers off to do the belts...what the heck holds the cams in? :headscratch:

thank you for that, i have seen this guy online a bunch of times but wasnt sure of him. Now knowing someone else has bought off him helps.

I will order some this week, thanks!

hopefully in the next coming weeks i will have a video of the process.

 

[AApple]

:good:
My experience with him was great. Fast shipping(free, too, I think), and what I got was what I bought...not something different, as sometimes happens. I got genuine OE, Honda gaskets. The difference in those, and the ones I got in the complete gasket set was incredible....I can see why a lot of folks are having issues with the aftermarket stuff... k:

hdgsk

• AApple
• Jul 3, 2012

OE Honda Gaskets

 

[importcustomx]

AApple » Thu Dec 05, 2013 8:45 pm[/url]":1y34cuf9]
:good:
My experience with him was great. Fast shipping(free, too, I think), and what I got was what I bought...not something different, as sometimes happens. I got genuine OE, Honda gaskets. The difference in those, and the ones I got in the complete gasket set was incredible....I can see why a lot of folks are having issues with the aftermarket stuff... k:

hdgsk

• AApple
• Jul 3, 2012

OE Honda Gaskets

good to hear, i am big fan of doing it right the first time, i do not want to make it a habbit of changing my head gaskets..hoping i dont notice anything else while i am poking around in there.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm running $25 each Taiwan head gaskets, think I got them from georgefix eBay.
Seem fine.
The top guide pin holes were too small, that was a simple ream to fix. Otherwise seem fine and sealing.
I've put them through real hard testing with hot engine, high rpm under full load many times.
I'd imagine they'd have let go by now.
I did spray 2 thick coats of copper coat on both sides. I always do that because I feel it's cheap insurance.

 

[ekvh]

Same for me. So far so good. I did re-torque the bolts and was surprised by how much they snugged up. Maybe an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn on each. My torque wrench is a cheapy.

 

[importcustomx]

So far i am lapping the valves on and only working on the right side. I am lapping the valves now.
using the harbor freight valve spring compressor and a C clamp (to hold the sides of the compressor onto the spring as i tighten it down)

once i actually finish doing one side, i am going to make a video as i do the next side.

 

[joedrum]

those 1200 heads are intimidating looking for sure ... looks like your all in ...LOL

 

[importcustomx]

lapped the valves, everything seems good. It holds water!

Also that harbor freight tool is a real pain in the ass, had to improvise and this was the simplest solution i could come up with. Soooooooo if you ever run into this issue, this is how i solved it... 4 inch C clamp holding the arms onto the spring.

 

[importcustomx]

I replaced all the exhaust studs becuase they were looking crappppppy...

found some great replacements for cheap

Audi a3, vw beetle/golf exhuast studs work on our bikes!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/350813434104?ss ... 1439.l2649

I got new copper gaskets too, the middle section that is not threaded is almost 1 thread longer than the oem studs, i dont predict a problem but if it is, i will just run my die/tap down there and add a 1
more thread. but i doubt that will be an issue

Also got new valve cover gasket, water tube, and few other misc gaskets.

She is cleaning up real well.

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=-=-Question=-=-=-=-=-

Do i have to do anything to the hydraulic valve system because i have removed it off the head, and i mean in regards to oil. I should be able to just put everything back together right? wasnt sure if i had to do anything special to it. Stupid question yes, but i've never dealt with hydraulic valves before

 

[dan filipi]

As for the hydraulic system, I would put it back on making sure the oil supply area is clean.
Once installed, remove the 2 caps and fill with oil.
Put everything back together and start it.

Depending how much the lapping took off, I doubt you'll need to do any shim measurements or adjusting.

When you first crank it, it may sound like there's no compression. That's because the hydraulics have to pump up. On the 1200 I worked on, it took 15-20 seconds cranking.

 

[importcustomx]

dan filipi » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:34 am[/url]":6bhw5fdi]
As for the hydraulic system, I would put it back on making sure the oil supply area is clean.
Once installed, remove the 2 caps and fill with oil.
Put everything back together and start it.

Depending how much the lapping took off, I doubt you'll need to do any shim measurements or adjusting.

When you first crank it, it may sound like there's no compression. That's because the hydraulics have to pump up. On the 1200 I worked on, it took 15-20 seconds cranking.

thank you.

 

[dan filipi]

To add, do the cranking with starter and plugs removed.