My Oldwing let me down...

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I think you hired a Vuck or maybe it starts with another letter :smilie_happy:
 
Back from u-haul.
I took my CL125A with me for return transportation. See. Little 125 is quite useful. LOL.

DSCN0693s.jpg


And they told me it is a VAN. So I can go as fast as passenger cars on freeway. Good to know for the next time (not!).
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=125658#p125658:14lq3po8 said:
Ansimp » Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:23 pm[/url]":14lq3po8]
Definitely electrical with the back fires IMHO. I use cool spray or water to diagnose coil faults that occur in hot conditions which would be the majority that I encounter. If they are faulty make the plan for C5 long term as the selectable advance curve from what Brian has reported should be a bonus with your side car rig :yes:

Well... the problem is I already have C5....
 
Do you still have a dogbone fuse?
Sure sounds like your loosing power momentarily.

Could be flakey relay, could be kill switch, ignition switch, loose wire.
Need to duplicate it in the garage.
 
Sorry Skiri I clean forgot. Dan has hit on the main points but it really should be the relay or the main fuse as the other switches only need to allow 200ma through to make the relay work. Loose connection is always a reality and also the possibility of a breach or chaffing in the new C5 wiring.
 
I have blade fuses.
My ignition switch has a loose lock so I can remove the key while it is in ON position. Electrically I don't know.
Tomorrow I will remove the shelter and take a look around.
 
Yeah, I forgot about your C5 also. I guess we can rule out the ignitors... You might try gently tugging wire connectors while it's running, tap the relay, or bypass it, jiggle the run and ignition switches...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=125684#p125684:19544erl said:
joedrum » Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:33 pm[/url]":19544erl]
bypass the relay first skirri
+1 once you get it to fault again
 
I'm guessing either the relay is faulty or the power to it is faulty. Easy enough to bypass to check. Could even put an 1156 bulb in the bypass to see if the power is constant. If it isn't the light will flash.
 
Thanks for the ideas.

The power to the relay is direct from the battery though a fuse. This is my piece of work so maybe highly suspicious?

After visual inspection and tapping stuff, I will install relay bypass with toggle switch + light bulb.
This way I can eliminate ignition switch, kill switch, and 30 year old harness from the picture.
Then maybe tentatively start riding around the neighborhood...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=125741#p125741:88urp88p said:
charles franz » Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:06 am[/url]":88urp88p]
A possible vapor lock? just saying, Charlie in NC

Could you elaborate on it a bit more?

The last moments of this chain of failures:

1) After an hour of 70MPH freeway riding in 90F heat, the engine cut off became so bad I had to get off the next exit.
2) Put a full tank of gas.
3) Went to the auto parts store and bought electric fuel pump and hooked it up (took half an hour or so)
4) Engine started fine so I continued the journey on freeway.
5) After a few miles, it started cutting off again.
6) Stopped by the side, tried to limp on to the next exit but couldn't so called the assistance.
7) Waited for an hour or so. The engine started and I managed to climb trailer ramp (no cut off, but it was fairly brief run, of course)
8) Went back to the town where I bought the pump. Rented a truck at U-Haul (took half an hour or so).
9) Tried to start the engine again to load Oldwing on the truck but no sign of fuel ignition what-so-ever. I span the starter for 10~15 seconds. A few times.
10) Next morning at home, engine started immediately.

Does vapor lock explain the above?
 
Vapor lock was prevalent in cars and trucks in the early 50's and 60's. Mostly on hot metal fuel lines running too close to the motor. I'm not sure if it's even possible in a flexible fuel line. I do know that wooden clothes pins were effective as heat sinks to prevent vapor lock when clipped on to the fuel line.
 
I really doubt if it is a vapor lock, as stated the metal fuel lines were the biggest issue with vapor locks.

I think you should be looking for an electrical issue. Doubt if it is the coils because both coils wouldn't go south at the same time. The stuff I work on has tons of relays in them, and very seldom do we see relay failures, I have seen relays fail that have had an excessive load put on them. (meaning pulling more amps through a relay than it is rated for). I'm really interested in what you find.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=125755#p125755:3dc111gz said:
Joep » Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:23 am[/url]":3dc111gz]
Sounds like my fuel filter issues when it was silted from dirty fuel... start, run, go about 20 mins die... sit for abit.. restart..etc..

Well I put in a band-new filter then a few miles later (a few minutes) engine started cutting off and died.
The fuel must be really dirty to do that.
And when I drained it into a container yesterday it looked clear to me.
 
I would open up the fuel filter and see it there is any contamination, if not then it isn't dirty fuel.
I still don't think you have a fuel problem but an electrical. I would check the kill switch, also there is a resistor inline and that supplies power to both coils on the 81 and up.

The first thing I would do is once it dies, see if it has spark, that will tell you a lot, my guess is you don't or a very weak one.
 
Okay.. your fuel system is good...my story was about what I had happen to me and what I found.. but filters are a cheap troubleshooting step.. glad we were able to eliminate that..
 
Back firing suggests electrical fault.
Remember when you bypass the relay you have no way to shut off the bike unless you put the toggle switch in a good location. For testing I normally just use a jumper wire in the terminals or just swap out a good relay. I feel that your fuse holder could be the fault if not don't forget to check the C5 harness especially the optical pickup.
 

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