NCScooter's 1000 build

[C5Performance]

Guess what? I quit my 22 year career as a store manager to create these ignition kits with PowerArc. I was not offended....I am on a severely limited budget as well...LOL

I was just pointing out that we decided to market the BEST system, and of course we get some crap for being pricey sometimes.
The cool part is, I have never sold a kit yet where the person asked to return it.

Now if we could get Obama to announce every American NEEDS one, instead of wasting our money giving away free cell phones, I'd be rich and everyone on this forum would get one from me as a gift :hihihi:

 

[NCScooter]

C5Performance » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:30 pm[/url]":1xw47qup]
Guess what? I quit my 22 year career as a store manager to create these ignition kits with PowerArc. I was not offended....I am on a severely limited budget as well...LOL

I was just pointing out that we decided to market the BEST system, and of course we get some crap for being pricey sometimes.
The cool part is, I have never sold a kit yet where the person asked to return it.

Now if we could get Obama to announce every American NEEDS one, instead of wasting our money giving away free cell phones, I'd be rich and everyone on this forum would get one from me as a gift :hihihi:

Not to bother you with facts, but the phone program is administered by the FCC and started with land-line assistance back in 1996. The first cell phones were supplied in TN during the waning months of the Bush administration by an FCC whose leadership would have been appointed by Bush. >>> https://www.freegovernmentcellphones.net/faq/obama-phone <<< This is way off base, I'd like to keep this discussion centered on this attempt to get a '77 GL1000 back on the road. Cleaned the tank today, pictures to follow.

 

[dan filipi]

NCScooter » Fri Aug 30, 2013 1:35 pm[/url]":1ffmba15]

C5Performance » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:30 pm[/url]":1ffmba15]
Guess what? I quit my 22 year career as a store manager to create these ignition kits with PowerArc. I was not offended....I am on a severely limited budget as well...LOL

I was just pointing out that we decided to market the BEST system, and of course we get some crap for being pricey sometimes.
The cool part is, I have never sold a kit yet where the person asked to return it.

Now if we could get Obama to announce every American NEEDS one, instead of wasting our money giving away free cell phones, I'd be rich and everyone on this forum would get one from me as a gift :hihihi:

Not to bother you with facts, but the phone program is administered by the FCC and started with land-line assistance back in 1996. The first cell phones were supplied in TN during the waning months of the Bush administration by an FCC whose leadership would have been appointed by Bush. >>> https://www.freegovernmentcellphones.net/faq/obama-phone <<< This is way off base, I'd like to keep this discussion centered on this attempt to get a '77 GL1000 back on the road. Cleaned the tank today, pictures to follow.

ME TOO!

 

[NCScooter]

Ok. back in post 136 I asked some questions, hoping for some experience based answers. I would appreciate some input.

 

[pidjones]

Ok. back in post 136 I asked some questions, hoping for some experience based answers. I would appreciate some input.

Would recommend a good dielectric silicon sealer instead of the tape. They make a good liquid electrical tape sold in bottles with a brush applicator inside. Bought my last at Home Depot, but a good hardware, home improvement, or electronics store should have it.

The experience that I base this on is working with high voltage particle accelerators. Make sure everything is SPOTLESS, and that all hydrocarbon solvents have been fully removed (they produce resistive tracks that become conductive over time).

We would build a "stress cone" of Teflon tape, but we didn't need to worry about road grime or rain.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

 

[NCScooter]

Thanks. Is the stress cone like the cone of silence in "Get Smart?"
I'm amazed at how clean the tank got. I did it on the bike and used "The Works" (20% HCl) ~3 gallons and 0.75 gallon dollah general brand cleaner (16% HCl) and quantity sufficient water to make 5 gal. Left it in about 10 minutes. Rinsed with water then neutralized with a baking soda in water solution 2lbs/5 gal two times and rinsed a couple more times. Used the shop-vac again to blow dry at the end. Tried to coat tank w/ WD-40, had to get a new plug before I fill it up w/ petrol.

Tank After 4

• NCScooter
• Aug 30, 2013

Tank after 5

• NCScooter
• Aug 30, 2013

Tank after 2

• NCScooter
• Aug 30, 2013

Tank after 1

• NCScooter
• Aug 30, 2013

before pix here viewtopic.php?p=94139#p94139

 

[dan filipi]

Came out real nice :salute:

 

[joedrum]

yep nice

 

[C5Performance]

I've used shrink tubing over the ends of leads already, although I'm not sure how long it would take before water got inside, and couldnt get back out. That seems to be a problem every time I try to completely seal up something.

What if you used shrink tubing over the end of the sparkplug lead to increase it's diameter and then threaded it into the plug cap?

Thoughts??

 

[pidjones]

If trying the shrink tubing, let me suggest a trip to Harbor Freight. They have a kit of various size marine shrink tubing with adhesive on the inside that should provide a water-tite seal.

Next time you use the shop vac to dry a tank, try this: in a low humidity area, set up the vac to suck on the tank instead of blow. This will slightly lower the pressure in the tank and increase the evaporation. Heating the tank will help further. Water is almost impossible to completely remove, as surface tension and ionic bonds hold it on bare metal. Flushing with reagent methanol can help, too (don't let the methanol evaporate on the metal, as it pulls water right out of the atmosphere) filling with a good water displacer (WD40, real gas with a stabilizer) or coating immediately is the best preventative.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

 

[NCScooter]

Thanks for the tips. I'm paranoid about sucking flammable vapors into the electric shop vac. As far as a low humidity area in my climate - a.) don't think I could get the bike up the steps and b.) my wife would disapprove of the bike sitting in the living room.

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:​

I'll get some gas w/ drygas in the tank today. Again, :thanks:

 

[C5Performance]

We've sold and used Kreem for tank etching and sealing for years. I can't say i love it, but step B involves rinsing the tank before the sealer is installed, and it is acetone (or darn close to it). For anyone just cleaning their tank, you can purchase acetone from most automotive paint stores and it works very well to rinse of the last remaining water before sealing or coating with corrosion inhibitors. Just tossing in another option :good: :good:

 

[pidjones]

PLEASE don't Kreem a GL1000 tank without covering the pickup screens!

The PO of the Hunley did that - acetone will remove it, but it takes three days per screen. I had to use a mini USB camera to see what I was doing (tank was inverted in my Shopmate) I think the GL1000 tanks are best left bare metal inside with good fuel and stabilizer. I fear what fuel stabilizers and cleaners like Seafoam or Techron will do to the coating, now. Guess ATF is all that is safe. And I really liked how Techron maintained my '77 carbs.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

 

[C5Performance]

pidjones » Sat Aug 31, 2013 1:29 pm[/url]":2x74g01c]
PLEASE don't Kreem a GL1000 tank without covering the pickup screens!

The PO of the Hunley did that - acetone will remove it, but it takes three days per screen. I had to use a mini USB camera to see what I was doing (tank was inverted in my Shopmate) I think the GL1000 tanks are best left bare metal inside with good fuel and stabilizer. I fear what fuel stabilizers and cleaners like Seafoam or Techron will do to the coating, now. Guess ATF is all that is safe. And I really liked how Techron maintained my '77 carbs.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

Agreed, Kreem in the wrong spot will cause all types of issues. My reference was that Kreem uses a "drying agent" before the final coating, and Acetone quickly gets the job done.

I have two friends who own shops and swear Rustol is a great product. I have not used it yet and can't comment.
It is non corrosive and removes rust but does not require an additional sealer like Kreem does.
Ethanol will not effect Kreem in my experience but if you dont get all the rust out first, Kreem CAN peel off. POR-15 also has worked well for me, but again, the prep is critical so do not rush the first step.

 

[NCScooter]

On the tank of the 400F which had sat for 5 years w/ a little gas in it, I tumbled it in the dryer w/ nuts and bolts, filled it up and it's fine. I did rebuild the carbs and the whole top end. I found what looked like millipedes in the varnish in the carb bowls. Wish I'd cleaned that tank this way, may go back and do that when I finish w/ this project or boat anchor... Looking across the information super-highway, I get the sense that folks are evenly divided on the coating or slightly tilted to the negative.

 

[pidjones]

I'm even considering filling the tank with acetone (it is still out of the frame), and remove ALL of the Kreem before it has a chance to do damage. I have no idea how well the PO preped the tank, and if the quality of his other work is any indication, I'd say it was half-way. The scary thing is, he works on airplanes, too!

 

[C5Performance]

I have used Kreem for 20 years in a professional dealership but have seen it come loose enough times to recommend NOT using it unless you really know what you are doing. You can also mess up fuel petcocks and gas caps if you try to seal a tank with these items still in place.

Really i dont blame Kreem, but it is very very difficult to fill a tank all the way to the top with etching acid (step 1). There is almost always going to be a small pocket of air at the top. My opinion is this causes a small area to remain rusty, and that causes issues down the road.

I am a believer in the POR-15 products, but again, if you dont prep it exactly as they say, it will fail as well.

My sons and I have used Evapo-rust, available at our local Fleet Farm store. It's ok, but works slowly. You can leave it bare or treat the metal afterwards.
We used it to treat a little Honda Trail 50 tank and afterward used Red-Kote tank sealer. It worked well.

red-kote

• C5Performance
• Aug 31, 2013

I'm not endorsing any one method, and honestly i've changed my opinion slightly about sealers, since most people rush the first step and get in trouble later.
If you are not prepared to be patient until the tank is 100% clean, then DO NOT seal it.
For anyone wanting to seal their tank, PM me if you want, and i'll try to help you avoid problems. :help:

 

[NCScooter]

Knowing my own impatience, I think I'll stick w/ the bare metal. :lazy:

 

[C5Performance]

NCScooter » Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:24 pm[/url]":3krkd8oj]
Knowing my own impatience, I think I'll stick w/ the bare metal. :lazy:

Stock fuel tanks were not sealed, so i agree with you. Worst case you have to etch it every 30 years, right?

 

[NCScooter]

And being the cheap SOB (sweet old boy) that I am, the total was under $30.