NCScooter's 1000 build

[NCScooter]

Replying to my own post, how gauche. If I hook the Reg/Rect directly through the battery like this >>> https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple- ... grade.html <<< will this save my battery and provide good current to the whole bike?

 

[Ansimp]

I keep trying to explain the advantage of the Mofset regulator/rectifier which is the whole post on the triumph site :good:

 

[joedrum]

hmmm tony im clueless here is the reg ncscotter getting a mofset ?

 

[Ansimp]

I don't think so Joe, just a later model SCR without the black sense wire like the earlier ones. The triumph post he has linked goes into detail on the Mofset type and the advantages.

 

[joedrum]

thanks tony

 

[NCScooter]

I'm under the impression that this is a Mofset, that it is a replacement for the cbr 1000 reg which is mofset. I have been incorrect many times before. When I get it (tomorrow maybe :beg: ) is there any way of telling?

 

[NCScooter]

I originally found it on ngw >> https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=26511 << and that's about what I payed for it on fleabay.

 

[NCScooter]

So while I'm waiting, I took the carbs off and took the tops off them to see what they look like. They didn't look bad. I did this cause I had awful mileage on my short jaunt. (~16 mpg :sensored: :Awe: :rant: ) I put them back together then decided to check valve clearance, which was fine, I think I adjusted 2 valves, they were really fine. Then I went to the timing. Oh boy. The gap is sposed to be 0.012 to 0.016 and I had read the wider the better somewhere so I tried to set them at 0.016. Then I set the timing (with a 12v test light, not a strobe) for 1&2, no big problem. However, 3&4 will not light the light. I set the gap a little less, used my left hand, leaned back and stuck my tongue out, whistled Dixie, never got the 3&4 to light, no matter what, even rotating engine all the way around. Checked continuity back to new condensers, fine. What am I doing wrong? :help:

 

[slabghost]

Best relays I've heard about are electronic locking relays. I haven't had time to source them and provide a link yet.

 

[dan filipi]

slabghost » Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:15 am[/url]":2bmee7bs]
Best relays I've heard about are electronic locking relays. I haven't had time to source them and provide a link yet.

Yes Paul mentioned those at the meet, he's looking at incorporating one into his C5 kit.
It does seem like a worthwhile addition to it.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmmmmm this aint to good ...im not sure what up here but to say ...the 30yr old wiring can be like a ressistor instead of copper wire ...there is also gronding problems points can have to ...they could be really corroded ...need pics if you can

 

[NCScooter]

Brand new points and condensers. Got them sorted out today, I think I had the gaps wrong. Now 1&2 are as close to perfect as I can get. 3&4 would be fine on one revolution then retarded all the way to TDC next time around. Once I noticed this, I actually ran the motor around ~4 times, it was consistent. I averaged it out to 7 and 3 degrees BTDC, I hope that's ok. Means 3 is gonna fire early and 4 late (or vice versa) I hope that will work. Not sure what your replies about "electronic locking relays" have to do with my build. Still waiting on the reg/rect, it got to Charlotte NC at 1 am today. Maybe tomorrow. I have my carbs back on, I've noticed that the decel cable (the one on the lower part of the bracket) Makes an awfully tight turn at the bracket. The other cable makes a sharp turn too. How were these supposed to be routed originally? Remember I have 1100 carbs on my gl 1000. I'll go take a picture or two. In a minute. Gotta get dinner going. Thanks.

 

[NCScooter]

DSCN1349

• NCScooter
• Aug 7, 2013

Here's the cable, can't really see the accel cable, it's not as bad but still tight. Throttle twist is much stiffer than my CB400F; in fact, when you let go of the throttle it doesn't snap back to idle immediately. Cables are routed behind front 2 tubes of triple tree, in front of the 3rd then under the left side of faux tank.

 

[joedrum]

there is no good spot ... i always run cables outthe framm seems like thats what you did so it easy to unhook and hook up before carbs are all the way in like stock

 

[Ansimp]

Just checked my second hand late model Mofset rectifier/regulator and it was what I wanted. The Rats Nest is charging and starting like a champion with its new AGM battery and LED lights. I won't change to the Mofset unit until I have too, I will take it on our trip as a spare.

 

[slabghost]

Run the cables over that bar they are pinched under.

 

[NCScooter]

slabghost » Thu Aug 08, 2013 9:58 am[/url]":3oldc4qn]
Run the cables over that bar they are pinched under.

I'll check, but I believe they're pushed into that position by the air filter box and the bottom of the left pod.

 

[NCScooter]

It's mighty warm in the shop, but it does look like they could be rerouted.

 

[NCScooter]

It's been awhile, but it's been mighty hot. I thought I might have a coil problem and I was gonna switch 'em and the condenser wires as suggested elsewhere. How do you remove the rubber thing that holds the 1&3 and 2&4 boots together? Doesn't look like my plug wires come out of the coils. And was there a resistor in my boots? I pulled those screw/plug snaps out and it doesn't appear that any thing else is up there. Thanks.

DSCN1354

• NCScooter
• Aug 15, 2013

DSCN1353

• NCScooter
• Aug 15, 2013

 

[dan filipi]

On 1000 coils the plug wires aren't replaceable.

On the plug caps, if you unscrew the center brass piece that clips on the plug tip up in there, a resistor and I think a spring should come out.
Sorry it's been a while since I unscrewed them.