Nice Plymouth. I owned a '65 Plymouth Fury II - this was her in Nova Scotia back in the early '80s:
Dad gave it to me in '83 and I drove it until '92. Loved the dash on these cars.
New Member with an old Wing
- Thread starter Workinman
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,403
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- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216933#p216933:1d17vz5n said:
If you put the pictures in your gallery, during the upload process and preview you get a chance to flip your picture 180 or whatever.
The 'attachment' system doesn't have that capability.
Your gallery link.. https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... m_id=10435
I fixed your last 2 pictures also.
Nice Fury! I like MOST old cars. When I build a bike I like it to be or look close to stock. With the Belvedere the stock train left the station a LONG time ago, so I can do whatever I want. It was actually a race car when I bought it and I’ve since put it back on the street.
Okay, the Wing...
The bike does NOT run and hasn’t in a long long time. PO tells me that the clutch is fried, as it was when HE got it. I’ll replace the clutch when I have the motor out of the frame. Other problems are the calipers are all frozen, the gas tank is rusty, I’m quite sure the carburetors are a mess, and so on and so forth. All I have done so far, other than a good bath, is try to get everything electrical working before I tear the bike down to the bare frame and get started on it. Very little worked when I brought it home, but I now have everything electrical working on it. Lights, turn signals, horn, cooling fan, etc. etc. now I can start tearing the bike down, which will not take long, and start restoring every single part of it from top to bottom. My silly questions will start soon!
Okay, the Wing...
The bike does NOT run and hasn’t in a long long time. PO tells me that the clutch is fried, as it was when HE got it. I’ll replace the clutch when I have the motor out of the frame. Other problems are the calipers are all frozen, the gas tank is rusty, I’m quite sure the carburetors are a mess, and so on and so forth. All I have done so far, other than a good bath, is try to get everything electrical working before I tear the bike down to the bare frame and get started on it. Very little worked when I brought it home, but I now have everything electrical working on it. Lights, turn signals, horn, cooling fan, etc. etc. now I can start tearing the bike down, which will not take long, and start restoring every single part of it from top to bottom. My silly questions will start soon!
I'm sorry to say that if you tear it down to bare frame, you'll probably end up pulling all of the electrical back off. But, you'll have it all sorted to go back together! BTW, if you are gojng that far, wait until the shelter frame is removed before pulli g the carb rack. Makes it much easier!
Thanks. Yea, I fully expect to take all of the electrical off of the bike but I wanted to make sure everything works before I do. That way, when it doesn’t work on reassembly I’ll know I’m the idiot that screwed it’s up.
So...if something electrical isn't working well with the rest of the system, when do you fix it? Case in point, I thought I had a voltage rectifier issue on a '79 I just woke up. The plug was melted, but I waited to attend to it till the engine was running and the rest of the electrical was addressed. Turns out the only problem was dirty connectors, replaced the melted one and cleaned the rest. Couldn't find that out till the engine would run the alternator.
Good luck with your electrics...its nice to have.
Good luck with your electrics...its nice to have.
Charging system is gonna have to wait till I put it back together. Everything else works, so as it is reassembled everything will be cleaned and checked. And my fingers will be crossed as far as the charging system.
Could the clutch slipping be due to the wrong type of oil? Seems to be a common foot shooter......
There are common known (and some little-known) issues with the GL1000 charging system. First is that the alternator is permanent magnet, so it always puts out power primarily proportional to the speed it is turning - there is no field coil to regulate. Because of this, the regulator grounds any excess power to keep system voltage in check. Next, on Euro-spec models, one phase of the alternator poers the headlight, which can be switched off. To allow for this by simply changing the handlebar harness, Honda runs one phase through the main harness and just puts a jumper in the NA spec handlebar harness. Extra wire and connectors that can be bypassed here. Another weakness is the "three yellow wires" connector between the alternator and harness often fried, invariably heat darkened, and too often the cause of failed stators due to phases shorting out in melted connectors. To add to this connectors harsh life handling full load whether needed or not, it is located near the old battery vent tube (please, go to a sealed battery) where acid fumes make life even worse for it. Then the three phases (with one taking the scenic route to the front of the bike and back) go through another connector to the rectifier. This connector is also located in the vicinity of the battery vent. On many old wings, you will note the greater amount of corrosion on the front part of the battery frame. Close to the vent.
I have learned to remove each of these connectors by first drawing well notated sketches of each plug, removing the connector pins and sockets (there is a tool Lisle 14900 for that), clean them if good, replace if not, and make sure crimping is done with the proper tool. Pins sockets, connector bodies are all available very reasonably from Vintage Connections, as well as good crimpers. All of this is done much easier withe the harness laid out, off the bike. Great to pass time while waiting for parts, paint to dry, etc.
Most replace the three-pin (three yellow wires) connector by either good soldered and heat shrinked connections or some other improvemen. I'm using 50 amp gold-plated RC helicopter connectors soldered to the wires and heat shrinked over. So far successful, but with only a couple years in service.
I have learned to remove each of these connectors by first drawing well notated sketches of each plug, removing the connector pins and sockets (there is a tool Lisle 14900 for that), clean them if good, replace if not, and make sure crimping is done with the proper tool. Pins sockets, connector bodies are all available very reasonably from Vintage Connections, as well as good crimpers. All of this is done much easier withe the harness laid out, off the bike. Great to pass time while waiting for parts, paint to dry, etc.
Most replace the three-pin (three yellow wires) connector by either good soldered and heat shrinked connections or some other improvemen. I'm using 50 amp gold-plated RC helicopter connectors soldered to the wires and heat shrinked over. So far successful, but with only a couple years in service.
Word I got was that the owner before the guy I bought it from let somebody ride the bike and he brought it back with the clutch burned up. That’s all I know till I get inside...[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=217007#p217007:3pg6zpoc said:
