No power when key is turned on?

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Gentlemen, I have no power at all! No lights no starter etc. When I unplugged the regulator this is what the back looked like. Nice and crispy! So, with this unplugged I should not have any power to the lights or starter right? Which would explain my problem being that the internals of the R/R are fried!.
IMGP4425.jpg
 
backlander":305vr9bf said:
I vote kill switch. Motor will still turn over, but it kills power to fuse block, headlights and coils.
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I disagree. Would someone on the board go out to there wing and flip the kill switch with the key turned to on. I'll bet the dash lights are still on!
 
While you may indeed need a R/R, the bike should turn on and start without it installed, depending on the battery's condition. It's purpose is to rectify (from AC to DC) and regulate (to ~13-14 volts) the output of the alternator.

With no lights, nothing, nada, you need to use the schematic and follow the power and see where it's being lost (battery-->main fuse-->ignition switch-->fuses-->etc........)

Kill switch cuts power to the ignition only, not lights, starter, etc.....
 
I stand corrected. My lights come on, headlights come on, motor turns over with kill switch on. I believe you posted you had no power to fuse block, no headlights but you had power in and out of ignition switch, all after simply turning the kill switch on and off. I, personaly, would still start my search for the problem at the kill switch.
 
If I could get one of you guys to unplug the rectifier and turn the key on it would be a huge help.

Fitz
 
Seems to me that we are turning a simple problem into a lot of hard work. I mean after the carb sync the bike was turned off and now it won't do anything. Do we have something as simple as a poor ground connection from the battery to the chassis causing this? Are you absolutely sure the ground connection is solid? Where is is the negative lead of the test meter connected to? The battery post or the frame? Does the headlight come on, the turn signal lamps work, the horn beeps? If not then there is no feed to the fuses. Pick one item to get to work say the horn. This is fed by the 15a fuse. If it does not work with the ignition switch in the on position, you have no feed to the fuse block, or a bad ground. Connect a ground jumper wire from the negative post of the battery to the horn. Test to see if the horn works. If not, you have no +12v to the fuseblock. Bad voltage regulator or kill switch... I would not go there at this time. Again look at +12 volts from battery to main fuse to ignition switch.
 
Fitz2at":3diwrp2x said:
If I could get one of you guys to unplug the rectifier and turn the key on it would be a huge help.

Fitz
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I have done that once before when I had a defective regulator and the lights come on and the bike will start up.
Jumper cable from positive post of the battery to the post on the starter motor and if your ground is good, the starter motor will turn. Just to confirm, absolutely nothing works when the key is turned on? No lights, no turn signals, not horn?
 
I had the same trouble with mine a while back and it was the main fuse at the solenoid that was corroded and it just pretty much fell apart. Have a good look at it, put an ohm meter on it to verify it. If that is good I would defenitaly look at the kill switch next.

Roger
 
Fitz2at":2vw445f1 said:
Just put the rebuilt carbs back in and it fired right up. I then turned the kill switch off and now I have no power at all. The battery shows 12.59vt. Is there another main fuse besides the one connected to the starter relay?

Thanks
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pretty obvious this is the place to start. :whistling:
 
slabghost":1fyzn7u3 said:
Fitz2at":1fyzn7u3 said:
Just put the rebuilt carbs back in and it fired right up. I then turned the kill switch off and now I have no power at all. The battery shows 12.59vt. Is there another main fuse besides the one connected to the starter relay?

Thanks
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pretty obvious this is the place to start. :whistling:
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The kill switch has nothing to do with my problem! I have no power to the fuse box or lights/instument gauges. If you turn the kill switch to the off position everything else still works right?
 
Fitz2at":2fugsu8b said:
slabghost":2fugsu8b said:
Fitz2at":2fugsu8b said:
Just put the rebuilt carbs back in and it fired right up. I then turned the kill switch off and now I have no power at all. The battery shows 12.59vt. Is there another main fuse besides the one connected to the starter relay?

Thanks
Click to expand...
pretty obvious this is the place to start. :whistling:
Click to expand...
The kill switch has nothing to do with my problem! I have no power to the fuse box or lights/instument gauges. If you turn the kill switch to the off position everything else still works right?
Click to expand...

No power to the fuse box means there is either:

1. A bad main fuse
2. The ignition switch contact isn't passing power through it.
3. There's a loose or broken connection between the battery and ignition switch or to the fuse box.

The kill switch ONLY affects + power to the ignition (coils). It has nothing to do with interrupting power to the ignition switch.
If you have the original "dogbone" fuse I'd start looking there as the culprit.
They can look good but not pass current.
 
I have installed a fuse holder. Like I said in and earlier post the regulator fails the ohms test per the factory service manual.
IMGP4427.jpg
 
Silly question and pardon my asking, but I do not want to overlook obvious items . Do you have good 12 volt power on both sides of the new fuse holder?
 

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