No power when key is turned on?

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No, I have no power anywhere! Not on either side of fuse holder either. I tested the starter switch and it checks out ok per the manual.
 
Fitz2at":5e5jeotv said:
No, I have no power anywhere! Not on either side of fuse holder either. I tested the starter switch and it checks out ok per the manual.
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Then the problem has to be between the fuse holder and the battery positive, or the battery negative connection to the bike.
With your meter, check for voltage between the fuse holder and bike ground, then check between fuse holder and ground right on the battery. If good to the battery then there's a bad ground connection.

It's also possible you could get a good volt reading but once there is a demand for current like when the key is turned on then a loose or corroded connection can't pass the current needed to power everything up.
 
As you are looking at the starter switch what side does the + battery cable go to the left or right post?
 
Battery goes to the left (closest to the battery) but it doesnt matter as the solenoid is like a switch on or off either way (my money is still on the keyswitch)
 
Battery goes to the left (closest to the battery) but it doesnt matter as the solenoid is like a switch on or off either way (my money is still on the keyswitch) BTW make sure the plug going into the solenoid is in tight and all the way
 
Well I finally found the problem. On the solenoid it's marked "B" for battery on the right side and "M" for motor on left . I don't think it's the original solenoid. The previous owner had the wires hooked up wrong which expalins why the regulator fried. The stator seems to ohm out fine I just hope it didn't shorten it's life because of this. Would this explain why it was running like crap after the carb rebuild?

Fitz
 
Won't know until I have a rectifier. Still no power when the key is turned on?
 
Fitz2at":37qgr5j4 said:
The ground from the battery to the frame is good. What switch connections are you talking about?
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I just had the same problem two days ago. The bike was dead, no headlight, no horn, no turn signals no nothing. The battery was good at over 12 volts. I used a test light and discovered iI was the ground. It felt tight but it was not tight enough.
 
Fitz2at":3cbdu40w said:
Won't know until I have a rectifier. Still no power when the key is turned on?
Click to expand...

It can be started without a regulator/rectifier plugged in. Won't harm anything.
 
Fitz2at":2qab3f6w said:
Won't know until I have a rectifier. Still no power when the key is turned on?
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You do NOT need the rectifier at this point. I had a very similar situation when I reinstalled my engine....no power and no lights. Everything looked good and tight. It turned out to be a bad ground connection from the battery to the frame. I vleaned up the frame contact point and the battery terminals and the ground wire and voila, I had power once again. Look, there is a 1 amp fuse that is in the left hand pocket area. It connects directly to the main fuse and is always live. Measure the voltage to that point and if it is zero volts, you either have a bad ground connection or a poor connection at the main fuse area.
Where is your ground reference point that you are measuring from? The frame or the negaative post of the battery?
As far as the rectifier It probably is fried but once you start the engine, you can then measure the voltage at the battery to see if it is regulating the voltage or not. You do not need the voltage reglator to allow the headlight and brake lights to come on . Especially riding in the dead of night, down hill, coming up to a curve a 60 mph.
 
You do not need the voltage reglator to allow the headlight and brake lights to come on . Especially riding in the dead of night, down hill, coming up to a curve a 60 mph.
NO. YOU YOU NEED LOTS OF PRAYERS. :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:
 
toytender01":1fngk5gt said:
NO. YOU YOU NEED LOTS OF PRAYERS. :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:
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Lol. I don't know if there would be enough time to cross youself.
I think I was trying to say that you would not want the voltage regulator to kill power to the bike at an inopportune time. I wonder if Fitz2at found his problem yet?
 

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