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Simplest solution would be another set of 1200 heads. I don't plan to use those on my 1200 there. So if you need them Brian. Go for it.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178952#p178952:33s6xnci said:
mcgovern61 » Tue Aug 16, 2016 8:14 pm[/url]":33s6xnci]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178942#p178942:33s6xnci said:
brianinpa » Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:12 pm[/url]":33s6xnci]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178899#p178899:33s6xnci said:
dan filipi » Mon Aug 15, 2016 5:35 pm[/url]":33s6xnci]
Might be good to know for future reference what the compression reads.

If you remember...

I suspect my Harbor Frieght compression gauge is a POS so I need to confirm these numbers on my other 1200 motor.

Cylinders 1, 2, & 4 are around 60.... :shock: Cylinder #3 reads 0. I think I found the blown head gasket. I just hope I didn't also find leaking valves. :head bang:

Tomorrow, after the 1100 battery is charged, I will confirm the accuracy of the gauge.
FYI, I have a good compression gauge if you need it!

I'll keep that in mind. When I was checking the 1100 motor last summer it read low, but not that low. I want to see what the other 1200 motor is reading and then I know just how bad the gauge is.
 
1200 bottom ends are pretty tuff, I think the pinging is probably from the water pump, most likely bearing failure letting the impeller strike the housing. Hopefully it will just be some head gaskets and and a pump. I'm a firm believer that the one size fit all head gaskets are causing most of the redistribution so I would be sure and use the1200 head gaskets.
 
I fear that I have worked to the point of depression...

I pulled the heads and found that both head gaskets were blown, with the right side being worse than the left.

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At first when I looked at the cylinders, I didn't see or feel anything on the left side that worried me. Then I started looking at the right side. This is the number 3 cylinder on the top side of the motor.

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It feels worse than it looks.
 
ok...brian like in the pis with the heads off ...you should put wrench on the crank and move piston back and forth ...using your fingers to feel for slop in lower end ...if done with good feel you can check to see if bottom end has play in it mains rods and wrist pin ..do all four ...if they seem good ...check stall time at top of stroke to see if they seem the same ..this will go a long way with me on going further with fixing it....

cylinder look not that bad really
 
The feel is what got me to bend my fat a$$ over and see it. I pulled that head off and was excited, I thought I had dodged a bullet, until I ran my finger around the cylinder.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179005#p179005:32aakez7 said:
dan filipi » Thu Aug 18, 2016 7:49 am[/url]":32aakez7]
I guess you're saying that it's scored then.

I'd find another engine.

+1
If it is hot enough to score a bore that would be my choice as well. :yes:
 
Aren't we making a bit of a leap, here?

I know head gaskets (OEM) aren't cheap - I've been through a few, but what if you were to get the heads nice and flat, screw it back together and then find compression perfectly acceptable? I don't know how deep the grooves are judging from the pics, but heck, there's plenty of blow-by on these engines anyway. Are we convinced enough based on empirical evidence that this is a lost cause and should be abandoned!?
 
Oiled up whet stone of pocket size could smooth the damaged area. I'd try that and make some gaskets from posterboard to test compression.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179009#p179009:2cczwvwi said:
desertrefugee » Wed Aug 17, 2016 6:19 pm[/url]":2cczwvwi]
Aren't we making a bit of a leap, here?

I know head gaskets (OEM) aren't cheap - I've been through a few, but what if you were to get the heads nice and flat, screw it back together and then find compression perfectly acceptable? I don't know how deep the grooves are judging from the pics, but heck, there's plenty of blow-by on these engines anyway. Are we convinced enough based on empirical evidence that this is a lost cause and should be abandoned!?

Well thats something I hadn't really considered. Either way I need head gaskets so why not?
 
Anyone ever hear an explanation of why the head gasket has holes and the heads have larger rectangular openings in some spots? I have debated whether they are there by design or if it would flow better with matching openings. The ones at 2 -5-7&10 o'clock are what I mean.

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Circular holes are more stable in gasket material and probably simplify making of the gaskets. I doubt reshaping to fit the elongated passages will increase the flow enough to make any real difference. Remember all of the coolant going through there is carried from the head by a single 1" tube.
 
It looks like tomorrow is finally the day that I get to do something to this motor. I already have the heads off, so pulling it the rest of the way should be easy.

I am curious... what is the difference between the 1200S/I motor and the 1200A motor? I am looking at all options just in case.
 

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