Right side running hotter

[Pony Ruiz]

Been awhile since I've been over here.

sold my 78 (i knew i'd kinda miss it) and now I am working on my 83 and 80 project.

I am posting this on the other forums to try and get it resolved.

I rebuilt the carbs for my 83 got them on and balanced. Checked the coils and pulse gen. good.

It runs, revs, returns to idle but is getting way hotter on the right and with not a lot of exhaust/push on the left side. I have fuel on the left, but maybe low spark?

I checked the coils - the proper resistance is there.

I read someones thread about one cyl. working on the left and one on the right? I am not a elec. mech. wizard.

there were a lot of theories being bandied about on that one - wasn't resolved yet.

Seems I either have not enough fuel, or a low spark.

Someone told me to swap the coil wires blue for the yellow and see if the prob goes to the other side indicating the coil.

I'll try that....

thanks

 

[joedrum]

if were talking left and right side of the bike then its most likely a gas thing ....as the coils go front and back on how they fire ...a bad coil sould be bad on front two or back two cylinders pony....could gas is not gettint through one haft of the carbs to the other haft ....that straw thing maybe

 

[dan filipi]

I replied at ngw.
Sync?
More push out one side suggests throttle plates are open more on that side.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

yeah maybe gas, but I did a synch with the 'carbtune' syncro.

I thought it was good but I'll try again. Not getting the pull /vacuum like I did on my 78 which had 160psi in every cyl.

I had to do it with more throttle because the carbtune doesn't register at idle which it did on my 78.

something ain't right with that either.

this motor has 17k on it ostensibly.

kicking myself for selling my only running bike, but i wasn't getting anywhere with these so I just up and sold it. doh! feeling a little frustrated about now.....but not givin up. :fiddle:

 

[dan filipi]

How's your valve adjustments, tight/loose can cause lowered compression and lower vacuum.

I'd go after the low vacuum and compression first, weak ignition won't cause this.

 

[dan filipi]

I was thinking also the lowered vacuum is because your opening the throttle.

Having to raise the engine speed makes me think it's not getting fuel at idle, maybe still some clog in idle jets.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

Dan

I adjusted the valves and put new belts on it before I put it back in. all good.

jets cleaned and re-cleaned all removed and cleaned blown out. carbs done over twice - thinking this was the problem w/last motor.

the intakes are b-tight. should I spray some starting fluid around them to see if the rpm goes up?

that would show vac leak?

Compression? well the motor has been siting for years, but it was clean inside(no sludge) compared to the other one(sludge everywhere). Valves good what else can I do to change this?

the compression is low - 120 to begin with. I think that low pull/vac from the piston is not enough to move the gauge. more revs. more vac. the gauge moves.

:head bang:

 

[dan filipi]

Well if the compression is 120 even on all 4 I'd guess that's from stuck rings which will come up with miles.

More exhaust pressure on one side is throwing me.
That's usually because those throttle plates are open more.

Let's see.....symptoms are:

1. Low vacuum at idle
2. Low compression
3. One side high exhaust pressure

How's the throttle linkage look when you twist the throttle.
If link points are worn one side will open before the other which could cause the higher exhaust pressure.

It could also be your just gonna have to put some miles on it to get that compression and vacuum up so it can even be synced properly.

 

[slabghost]

Left exhaust plugged?

 

[Pony Ruiz]

symp.

all of the above Doc!

going out to check the linkage... link points by that you mean where the linkage is pinned and held by cotters?

I'd ride it but concerned about the heat on that rt. side. I'll do the neighborhood at least.

i would feel better if it was just a little more even than it is. I think I mentioned the 78 had these symp. as well which does lead me to believe it is something I did/didn't do w/ the carbs.

The only diff being that bike had outstanding compression.

SlabG. someone else on another forum mentioned that. could be but i guess I am a doubter of that at the moment.

it is getting gas to that side at least to the bowls - not sure how to check that further.

 

[slabghost]

On a tight exhaust shoving a potato in the outlet will prevent it running at all. A mouse nest in there will choke only one side.

 

[dan filipi]

link points by that you mean where the linkage is pinned and held by cotters?

Yes.

Slowly twist the throttle by watching the left and right carbs to see if they move at the same time and amount.

When you did the carb work, did you separate them?
Are the washers on the correct sides of the linkage fork on all 4 carbs?

 

[Pony Ruiz]

just started it. let it run a minute. at half choke felt about the same push out the exhaust. so thinking no blockage there.

after a minute the rt exhaust was hot the left one not even half of what the rt one was i.e. cold. then at idle the push seemed a lot weaker

I don't like running it long like this.....

the left is sputtering/popping more than the right at startup. must be carbs but what?

Why would the link points - that looked not worn to me - have this much affect?

would adjusting the idle mix screws do anything?

What should I try short of taking off the carbs. it has brand new float needle valves - floats adjusted the same on both sides of the carbs.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

i was m e t i c u l o u s about taking off and putting the washers back on properly.

This is the 3rd time I've rebuilt a set of these. once before and twice on these.

I was careful but I know stuff happens......

 

[dan filipi]

How do the plugs look?

Lean will make the exhaust run hot, rich cool.

Its sounding to me like the rack needs to come off, like one side lean and maybe the other side rich.

 

[slabghost]

What do the left plugs look like? If they are wet with fuel you definitely need to adjust something. What are the mix screws set to? If they are still set at the book setting the need adjusted.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

yeah something like that..

that is the other thing I was thinking.

plugs are brand new. I'll check them now.

why the rt is getting so hot. everytime i run it the exhaust has that brownish hue. it does come off with some bluejob but if i let it run long enough I am sure it isn't coming off. these tubes are nice.

even if the lt side was getting warmer - why is the rt so hot?

the rich/lean being the case. what would I look for in the carbs?


mixture screws are all 3 turns out as in 3 revolutions the tab (that I ground off ) passing the starting point 2 times and ending up there on the 3rd time
thanks

 

[dan filipi]

Look for floats too high or too low.
Low will cause lean, high rich.

I'd do a bench test with a gas container hooked up and held high to fill the bowls then compare how much gas is in each bowl.
Level should be just below the bowl gasket.

 

[slabghost]

Over hot can be a lean condition. Did you check for leaks at the connections and linkage with carb cleaner while you ran it?

 

[Pony Ruiz]

Did you check for leaks at the connections and linkage with carb cleaner while you ran it?

no was going to do w/starting fluid. So you just spray around the connections to see if the idle increases? Does the aircleaner need to be on for this?

Excuse my noobness I am doing most of this stuff for the first time....and I'm an old guy. :music:

Look for floats too high or too low.
Low will cause lean, high rich.

I'd do a bench test with a gas container hooked up and held high to fill the bowls then compare how much gas is in each bowl.
Level should be just below the bowl gasket.

so you put a container up high and gravity is supposed to fill the bowls? as in getting gas to all 4?

how long is this supposed to take? any size container with hose attached? Would a overflow rad. container work for that with the gas line attached?
so how then do you see the gas level in the bowls? take each one off from below so the gas stays in the bowl? I know it should be obvious, just checking...

I checked and re-checked the floats. they were parallel with the carb body lightly touching on the float needle valve. as per the randakk vid. in any case they were all the same...

pulled the spark plugs - all looked the same. didn't look light grey or tan as in normal

nor did it look like overheated on the rt side plugs. there was seemed to be slight carbon on all except one. But hey my problem is I do not know the nuances of this stuff even when I am looking right at the problem. I want to do this it is satisfying when I actually seem to get it right but its all trial and error. Kinda like trying to learn anything from a book. Without someone here to tell me yeah that's it, it is difficult to know where to begin or know if I got it right.

friggin exhaust is permanently discolored now blue off doesn't take it off anymore. I was thinking of putting on my beater exhaust, but the deed it done. I suppose it could get worse.