Right side running hotter

[dan filipi]

As far as filling the floats, the last time I did it I used the bike fuel pump attached to the carbs with a long gas hose, took about 10 seconds of cranking to fill the bowls. An electric fuel pump is easier, no need to crank the engine and an electric will change sound or stop pumping when all the bowls are full.

Checking the level can be a bit messy.
Have just 2 corner screws just seated so once they are filled it's easier to spin them out while holding the bowl in place. Once the screws are out carefully lower the bowl so no gas spills out.
If gas does spill out as you unseat the bowl that means fuel level in the bowl is too high.
Too low is a bit tricky to gauge but once you do this you'll see a difference among the bowls if there is any.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

started the bike again ran for maybe 30 sec.

shut it off.

1 and 3 headers got hot real fast. 2 warmed up but not as hot as 1/3. 4 not so much as in almost cold.

that was the cyl. with the lowest compression 100.

I have another set of carbs I could throw on the p.o had/rebuilt. He gave up on this bike and he was a mechanic. that should have been a red flag. The $750 price tag sucked me in. I've put $750 into it now. brake lines/speakers/carb rebuid and floatvalves/tires/cables/horn. He gave me this second motor and a bunch of parts from a parts bike he bought. Seemed like a deal..... Given all the time I've spent on this it is beginning to look like not. rant. the thought of parting this thing out is beginning to creep in. I'd be down to one project with a little $ to finish it. :Awe:

can I do the gas in the bow thing with a syringe too? I've done this, to get them primed, but never did figure if they were completely full.

 

[dan filipi]

All is not lost!!, I had an engine just 90 lbs on one cylinder which came up to 165 after 200 miles.
The others were lowish around 120-130, all were even 165 after those 200 miles.

Trying the other rack is a good option but unknown condition as to float levels etc., easy enough to check them before going on the bike.

One experience I had with the floats:
When I first rebuilt the rack on my runner I had a hard time with number 2 running cold on the exhaust pipe, only #2. All the rest were hot and would steam off water sprayed on them.

I had the rack off several times chasing this problem.
I finally figured out that float seat wasn't closing off gas flow when it should.
I had to "adjust" the float level to maintain gas level where it should be.
Once I found the sweet spot the exhaust got hot like the others.

Since then I'm finding that one bowl is acting up again running rich. I can hear the engine start to load up some at idle. That plug is darker than the rest.
I have a spare rack I'm going to rebuild instead of messing with this #2.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is the factory float setting isn't always going to ensure the actual gas level in the bowls will be where it needs to be.
I would have never found this out without filling the bowls on the bench and comparing the levels among the others.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

All is not lost!!, I had an engine just 90 lbs on one cylinder which came up to 165 after 200 miles.
The others were lowish around 120-130, all were even 165 after those 200 miles.

this is good to know.

i am going to try the other carbs for giggles.

so when you do a spark plug test you take all the plugs out put the one back in the wire that you want to test and ground that on the head - with the ignition switch on crank the motor?

i did this but can't remember exactly.

I want to check the spark on the plugs first.
thanks again for the help.

 

[dan filipi]

When checking the plugs for spark all plugs should be out then plugged in the wires and laying grounded on the heads.
Reason is the shared plug and coil completes the path to ground.

 

[joedrum]

well i usealy just takes plugs out both sides and have at it starter spins motor easy here......in the fire possition :mrgreen:

 

[mcgovern61]

Pony, out of curiosity, did you dry/bench sync the carbs before installation to be sure the butterfly's were all equal? You can get the carbs synced with the gauges afterward and not be correct left to right. My '81 carbs were like that (aside from the fact they were leaking and not adjusted correctly). The right side was open more than the left and while on the bike, you can get them to sync like that, but end up with a motor that will not run right.

The other question I have is a matter of timing.......are the belts dead on?

 

[Pony Ruiz]

no I did not do a bench sync.

They were very close the last time I had them on so I bolted them on.

running they were very close again.

belts are dead on.

I checked the spark on all four plugs. the arc is the same.

Pulling the carbs and bolting on the PO's carbs while I take another look at the ones that are on there.

so if it is a gas thing why isn't as much gas getting to 2 and it seems almost nothing to 4 therefore making that side weak/cold? If the right side is normal it is getting too hot imho. lean? I believe the floats are set right at least not that far off - level with carb body.

So how does one rectify a lean vs. rich condition on these bikes. Isn't the idle mix screw just for idle? is this lean or rich condition just at idle?

I didn't forget to put the crossover tube in there. But if it is gas and the other carbs work well it must have been something i did or did not do.

some of the carb issues I have read about on the forums amaze me that ya'll found figured them out. very gremlin like....

 

[dan filipi]

One thing that almost seems backward is if a cylinder is getting TOO much fuel it will run cooler, not enough fuel (but enough to fire) it will run hotter.
Your side that's running cool could in fact be flooding.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

Seems logical, but counter intuitive - to me anyway....

The floats are the same and the needle valves are new.

How does fuel get to all bowls? Maybe something is blocked there? It is coming out the drain screw so it is getting there.

Maybe it isn't getting atomized?

I have no idea....and the only way I could check is to take the whole thing apart again. But I might overlook it again. I already did twice. the last motor had the same issue if I recall. 2 with the same problem? seems unlikely.

Carb and me are the common link. So if the PO's carbs actually work and all cylinders fire evenly - its the carbs - if not - back to the drawing board.

I can take them apart and put them back together, but if it is me well there is obvious something is missing - like when I can't find my screwdriver 5 minutes after I put it somewhere, look all over for it and it is right where I left it.

I'm about 2wks into my 60th year so anything is possible......

Dan thanks for stickin w/me. I ain't givin up yet. If I had my 78 back I'd take the carbs off it and try them but it is gone now.... I rebuilt those - a couple issues at first but got them working..

 

[joedrum]

pony if the thing is getting fire good the n its not a bad thing its good....and dose mean its only carb issue now ,,,,1100 carbs are great when right ....the carbs are a job all in themselfs and need to be done in a open up area to keep everything together.....an gravity feed gas sorce to check carbs for leaking pass float seat and to have drains open to check gas flow to carbs is huge to have ......these tests are to be done before install....

if those two test work out and the jetts are cleaned up .....idle jets are small ,,,and will require a small unplugger like small string on guitar ...theres plenty of help here and in the teck section to grt you through i think ...

stick with it pony...... :mrgreen:

 

[mcgovern61]

I had my share of carb issues:
viewtopic.php?p=2784#p2784

Even though the needles may be new, they could still be leaking and not sealing. That was a big problem on mine! I cleaned and reseated them several times before they actually would seal correctly.

 

[dan filipi]

Same problem on 2 engines....
There's something common to both of them.
That would rule out compression I think.
Ignition seems fine, only thing left is carbs and fuel/air delivery.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

Same problem on 2 engines....
There's something common to both of them.
That would rule out compression I think.
Ignition seems fine, only thing left is carbs and fuel/air delivery.

that would be a 10-4, rodger that, I copy etc. etc.

I for s and giggles swapped a set of carbs I got in the deal. needed a new #1 so I swapped it out from another rack. The joys of parts bikes(this stuff takes up room though!).

I did nothing to them except check the float settings. all good I installed them.

fired up. immediately the left/cooler side has more push. the rt though is still getting hotter than its left brother. not as much tho....

Got the carbs all synked up (how do you spell that). revs, returns to idle. Seems good/better. The other rack - the one that I rebuilt - ostensibly - has a problem. What that is? Jets? crossover tubes/straw? No gas or very little of it getting to #4 and not much more to #2.

All in all I am happier.....not quite exuberant yet.

On another note I found an 83 parts bike I was thinking of goin after-just incase this bike/motor didn't work out. It has the motor/carbs/fairing/wheels. Guy bought for $350. He took a few things off of it. not sure if it has the bags or not. He isn't giving it away but he's fair he says.
what would be a fair non-insulting offer? $175-$200? I have to drive 50miles to look/see it.

He was selling an 80 and the 83p.b. for $1300

Dan. thanks.

I am going for a test ride! Still what do you think about that rt side getting hotter. Can anybody verify that their bikes exhaust heats up evenly?

:thanks: :music:

PonyR

 

[dan filipi]

Well my 83 does heat up evenly.

Since it improved I think your on the right track.

After the ride, see what the plugs look like.

If that for sale has a good engine I'd go $200 for sure.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

runs, idles, started after I went to the G station (yeah).

What I didn't notice was the fan coming on after I shut it off. I got on it just a little and I am thinking it should come on. the heat needle is just off the cold line maybe 3/16" or so.

MY 78 was on after I shut it off every time after a ride.

I like the windshield. a little bouncy. maybe need to ck the air shocks eh.

need to adjust throttle too.

so far so good.

is there a tutorial on how to test the themo/fan switch etc.?

I might go for the p. bike. Doesn't run - so not sure how to test that motor. I can see if it turns over at least.

 

[joedrum]

im not sure where its at but there some good info on thermostat

 

[Pony Ruiz]

on the other hand....

if the heat gauge shows low i.e. not above 1/4 the gauge, and the fan does not come on, maybe its good to go....

obviously it comes on at a certain temp.

but does it come on when its hot to keep it cool or real hot to cool it down?

inquiring old budding gl geek would like to know.

I do find that with all ya'alls help I might eventually know a little something about these bikes - when no body wants them anymore or they are all gone :smilie_happy:

 

[dan filipi]

The fan normally comes on around 3/4 temp scale.
The temp should be running down at the bottom, close to beginning of the thicker white line on the highway at speed.

 

[mcgovern61]

is there a tutorial on how to test the themo/fan switch etc.?

Here is how to test the switch:
viewtopic.php?p=28869#p28869