Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[slabghost]

With the 1000 cams and 1100 cams it's easy to tell which goes on right or left sides. Since the 1200 cams don't have extensions for fuel pump or tach. I'm thinking it's possible to mix or mismatch them.

 

[dan filipi]

Ok, back to the single carb discussion.
Cams are good for another thread.

 

[westgl]

That is really good news Dan,

I am very happy to hear that you guys have figured out a fix.

And that the plugs are looking better than they did.

Dan, I look forward to a ride report.

I, at this point, will no longer cross post between the two carb threads, & between the two sites.

If they want to come over here, fine, and same for people over here that may want to see what is going on over there.

dan filipi » Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:18 pm[/url]":2giu7gpf]
Ok,,,,,have to explain a couple things so all this makes sense.

Sorry, this is going to be long. I don't know how else to accurately explain what I've experienced so here goes.

I like to try things.
In my 1100 I've tried the 1000 cams.
It ran much better but curiosity got me so I installed 1200 cams.
Those improved low end torque. They've been in over a year now.

They always gave me much higher compression on the right side, 200 lbs+
Left side 150-165 as normal.

When I had the stock 4 carb rack on, I synced them to within a 1/2" and it would run like it was out of sync. I found out the gauges were out of calibration so I calibrated them very carefully double checking they were even. Even then when left and right were synced it would have that characteristic out of sync left side to right side "knock" so.....I changed left side sync to where it sounded in sync.
This brought left vacuum down almost 5" lower than right side.

Ok so now running the single carb with the 1200 cams, it was running richer on the right side (200 lb side) then the left. Plugs were black as could be.
This was odd considering the runners were damn near equal on both sides.

While talking to Joe on the phone we decided those cams gotta come out because it's an unknown variable so I put the 1000 cams back in.

Now with the 1000 cams and running the single the plugs are becoming tan. They are cleaning up.
It's run in the garage maybe 30 minutes total but not all at one time.

The vacuum is within a 1/2-1" of each other which tells me the runners are close enough to work, for test runs anyway.

Acceleration with the external alternator load is almost instant from idle to wide open throttle with no spit or popping. Much like when you drop the pedal to the floor on a old V8.
Idle is a bit lopey.

I can reduce idle speed with the idle speed screw down to below 500 rpm and further down to a stall.

Tomorrow I'll try to get the radiator bolted back in and take a test ride.
It sure doesn't feel like it will bog under load like it was with 1200 cams but will see.

 

[82a]

slabghost » Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:03 pm[/url]":1f0nzey5]
With the 1000 cams and 1100 cams it's easy to tell which goes on right or left sides. Since the 1200 cams don't have extensions for fuel pump or tach. I'm thinking it's possible to mix or mismatch them.

there are 2 diff part #s

 

[joedrum]

will big test ride today opcorn:

 

[westgl]

Dan,

Any idea what the ID of that Manifold runner hose is, that you are using?

 

[joedrum]

1 3/8 I think he said ...like perfect size of of horns

 

[westgl]

Yes!

1-3/8" Looks like it is the perfect ID for both sides, From the VW manifold, to the oem stub Manifolds.

I found some material that is 1.380" ID that i am going to try and use, and it is relatively cheap, I have that in my shop now, I am waiting for the last part to show up.

That is what I am using for REV.#2 Manifold.

I am still trying to make it a NON-welded upgrade to my Rev.#1

But i am still waiting for a part.

I should have the Part I need this next week, or i hope i will.

I hope I can get it to work, I will keep my fingers crossed.

If so, the difference from 1-1/4"id vs 1-3/8"id and that i will now have a Much smoother transition, the whole Intake length should be enough, to provide a felt difference, and transition between all manifolds and tubing will be a much better, for improved flow.

If I can get it to work, that is?

More Updates after I get it running, If i get it to work.

Rev.2 should be very durable.

It also may be much easier to mount in place.

 

[joedrum]

cool im just now fixing to hit some boats places ... sheesh I live on a huge lake and it never accured to me to ck them for 1 1/4 clear hose with the string webbing ... sheesh these places are the closest thing to me .. sometimes I really drop the ball bigtime on stuff

 

[dan filipi]

I'm thinking to hit home depot this week.
They have that webbed clear hose though the wall is very thick. Not sure what the I.D is.

 

[dan filipi]

Say west, I would like to exchange phone numbers so we can collaberate easier on this.
Is that ok with you?

 

[westgl]

The two runners, are tough.

because of that "S" shape going different directions, and also maintaining the round shape of the hose without any Kinks or collapsing.

That is the Key, and also the difficult part, of using the VW manifold, and having offset cylinders on our engines.

The transition from the VW manifold, to farthest away cylinders, is a stretch.

Only a Tube, that is a true contortionist can achieve, without failure of kinking, or collapse.

This is a challenge, for me making Manifold Rev.#2.

 

[westgl]

Sure Dan, that's fine.

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:46 am[/url]":3pea21y7]
Say west, I would like to exchange phone numbers so we can collaberate easier on this.
Is that ok with you?

 

[dan filipi]

FYI, brain storming ideas will be posted in this thread.

 

[joedrum]

well a window into what's going on is my target at the moment. it may be very revealing. :yes:

 

[westgl]

Dan,

I was reluctant to provide some ideas, that, while sounding good, when bounced off the inner walls of my head.

That is a long way from, actually working.

I have measured, many times and looks like it will work, but a couple of unknowns are present.

The Unknowns can make or break my manifold runners Rev.#2.

I hate to throw out/post ideas, till they have been tested.

It could be a dead end

 

[slabghost]

Dead ends are good posts too as they explain what didn't work and why.

 

[westgl]

Well OK,

But I warned ya.

I will try and explain as best i can.

I pulled off one tube, the worst one, to get a idea of how my Rev.1 is doing, and to see what is going on inside.

This Fuel proof turbo tubing seems to be deteriorating, from the fuel, so the contact of the Fuel against this hose must be lessened to Only a inconsequential contact.

That is part of the Rev.#2 design.

I bought a piece of 1-1/4" x 10'L EMT Conduit from Ace, $14.00

Dimensions for 1-1/4"EMT conduit are;
1.51" OD
.065" wall thickness x2 = .130 wall
1.51"- .130= 1.380 or slightly larger than 1-3/8"id by .005" dia.

I have a Conduit Bender, that I am waiting on the correct size part so that i can bend the 1-1/4" EMT conduit

I have already bent up a 1" conduit to the correct shape, 1" conduit is actually only a little smaller than the 1-1/4" they rate them smaller than they look, or measure.

The OD of the conduit is real close to the OD of the VW manifold outlets.

The connection at the VW manifold and the new tube, will be Via the 1-1/2"ID silicone hose, there will be no fuel contact and will only provide a mechanical seal here.

The other end of the new tube will enter the oem manifold at the head, at this end, there will be a need for a reducer, to reduce the oem manifold to the OD of the new tube.

This spacer will also have No contact with Fuel at all as it will be sandwiched between the oem rubber seal and New tube.

My thoughts are, Heat? between the rubber oem manifold seal and New tube.

I dont think it is going to be to much, and it will be sandwiched between and clamped as a mechanical seal only.

Seal between oem manifold, that I was going to try was;

Below are three different possible mech seals that i will try.

1. O-ring, w/ Vaseline, on O-ring and lube it for installation, inside the oem rubber seal there are two o-ring shaped ridges inside the rubber oem manifold part already that would help hold my o-ring in place till mounted.
2. Gorillia tape, wrapped tight till a good seal is made, pressure between the VW manifold and oem manifold would make them push against each other, help to seal.
This provide me many try's
3. Oem manifold, Id of rubber, gets ground out slightly, with a dremel tool to match the OD of the 1-1/4"id silicone hose slipped over the new tube, this will be the mechanical seal, for new tube to oem manifold. This one will be tried last as it modifies the Oem manifold.
I have tried clamping a tube with the gorilla tape, it seems to provide a good seal, i dont know what the life span will be.

Well you asked for it.

Manual conduit bender can be rented, and may be easier to use than someone trying to teach them shelve to weld.

I have no problem welding steel, but I want to make this easier for more people to do.

A picture of 1" conduit bent to fit, this was my first attempt, with a manual bender, it is not that hard.

P1020051

• westgl
• Sep 22, 2013

1" Conduit bent to fit manifold runner

 

[westgl]

Next time I go to bend up some tubing a guide on the floor will be much easier,

That combined with keeping track of starting and finishing points, flip over, and start and finish point.

To get the center to center of both of the manifold holes lined up.

A little bit of easy math.

 

[slabghost]

I presume it was bent first then cut to length?

3. Oem manifold, Id of rubber, gets ground out slightly, with a dremel tool to match the OD of the 1-1/4"id silicone hose slipped over the new tube, this will be the mechanical seal, for new tube to oem manifold. This one will be tried last as it modifies the Oem manifold.

Is it not feasible to grind grooves to the OD of the silicone hose to fit the oem manifolds?