Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[westgl]

Guys Conduit is:

1. cheap,
2. easy to bend
3. already rust proofed
4. Available everywhere
5. comes in a size that can be adapted
6. Paint-able

The problem i have run into with all of the soft hose solutions is:

Soft does not provide the wall integrity we need.

Even very firm Hose like the Silicone hose, I had a slight kink, in the side of the worst runner, it still ran great, but my thought is get rid of the kink, go to larger ID, More flow, better top end.

Under a load i would reach down and grab those hoses, (this was my final test) they would collapse while i was riding, the two that were stretched the most, would collapse by as much as 50%, it was then i knew that a soft hose, or even a very firm one, will not work.

If it is flexible enough to make the curves we need, then it will also kink, and collapse.

If my fuel safe hose was starting to show signs of deterioration, then it would not last like a OEM manifold and stand the test of time.

 

[westgl]

Yes!

I bent the tube first, then cut both ends to get the length I needed. the longer the tube you have the easier it will be to bend, leverage.

Put the longer piece of tubing coming out of the bender up against a 2x4 and that up against a beam/wall in the garage, that is you stop, to bend against.

Grinding on the silicone could be another alternative that i had not thought about but may work and would not sacrifice a manifold, I do not want to replace one of my manifold's they are ported to clean up the ledges in side of them and polished, that is a little time consuming.

I have a very industrial tube bender, but a hand help unit could be rented and could work, or so i shall find out.

slabghost » Sun Sep 22, 2013 11:03 am[/url]":1kmkn19j]
I presume it was bent first then cut to length?

3. Oem manifold, Id of rubber, gets ground out slightly, with a dremel tool to match the OD of the 1-1/4"id silicone hose slipped over the new tube, this will be the mechanical seal, for new tube to oem manifold. This one will be tried last as it modifies the Oem manifold.

Is it not feasible to grind grooves to the OD of the silicone hose to fit the oem manifolds?

 

[westgl]

Conduit is Paintable.

A little sanding,

A couple of coats of primer, a couple coats of paint, a couple coats of clear, they can be any color you want.

Or just flat black the crap out of it with some VHT flat crinkle finish paint.

Those tube runners will not see a lot of heat, they will have a tendency to be cooler than be hot.

 

[westgl]

Sorry guys laughing right now,

My wife and i have a African Gray parrot

He is yelling "I gotta go pee" , then he sings Bad Bird, bad bird, what cha gunna do when they come for you, then he yells "Who Farted", and he makes a Loud fart sound.

he has a Big vocabulary, he is the a crazy chicken, El polo loco.

Any way, here is a picture of the 1-1/4 conduit , mounted on the oem manifold, with the Gorrilla tape as the mechcahial seal.

Now it will be a either or on that list above.

O-ring or
gorrilla tape, or

Grind the id of the Rubber on the oem manifold,

Or as slab mentioned, grind the OD of the 1-1/4" Silicone hose

The Gorilla Tape will be trimmed to the edge of the Oem manifold rubber so you would never see it.

The Conduit as it comes in the 1-1/4" is actually nice looking, better than the 1" is.

The 1-1/4" has a look like lizard skin , or alligator skin, kind of a look, that has a light and dark look hopefull the picture will do it justice.

It has a nice look just the way it is, i will leave it with this finish and see how i like it.

providing I can get those two tough runners bent on the correct tube center lines

P1020075

• westgl
• Sep 22, 2013

1-1/4" EMT Conduit finish

P1020074

• westgl
• Sep 22, 2013

1-1/4" EMT Conduit finish

P1020073

• westgl
• Sep 22, 2013

1-1/4" EMT conduit w/ manifold mounted using Gorilla tape wrapped around for a good seal

 

[westgl]

I took the picture of the 1-1/4" Conduit with the seam facing Up, so you can see the seam.

The bottom of that tube is much more uniformed, and the seam does not show.

I will have to be thinking about that when i go to bend that 1-1/4" EMT tube and put the seam on the bottom, so that it wont show.

 

[westgl]

I have tried to bend some really good steel with a manual bender.

Conduit will give the best results with the smoothest looking bends.

With .065 wall tube, it should not be to Difficult.

But we shall see,

It is a Lot harder to bend really good steel, as it is tougher steel, does not bend as easy, and has a tendency to kink when bending.

Only thing to look out for when doing any bending, is Bounce back, Bounce back can cause a kink or rocking kinks.

Smooth Continuous pull through, (with out any rocking, rocking /bounce back will make a badly bent tube) provides the best bend.

There are a few links to conduit bending if anyone is interested.
They show basics of positioning, starting and stopping the bends

 

[joedrum]

this stuff is not that hard to bend westgl ...but my methods are all caveman .. rather quick ... and kinda not ever heard of ....and I aint really figured out how to type it either

 

[westgl]

Then bend I will do is called a offset bend

It looks like a "S" with the head and tail chopped shorter.

Measurement between the center line of the VWdub outlet (worst tube) and Center line of the OEM manifold is roughly 1-5/8" on centers.

The New tube length is roughly 4-1/4" OAL, with a 1-5/8" center line to center line measurement.

 

[westgl]

No it not that difficult, just trying to provide some detail,

Caveman or otherwise what ever works, and gets ya down the road.

I would like to hear the caveman method, i do not mind using the caveman method at all

joedrum » Sun Sep 22, 2013 12:36 pm[/url]":2feqmlx3]
this stuff is not that hard to bend westgl ...but my methods are all caveman .. rather quick ... and kinda not ever heard of ....and I aint really figured out how to type it either

 

[dan filipi]

I'm here, taking it all in.

Conduit aye?
Bend then cut at the right position of bends, yes.
I'm not sure if the bends won't be too wide to get it though. I have a 1" bender and emt will have to try.

Shoot, I'm ok with gorilla tape.
That way any offness in bends can be sealed.
Possibly electrical rubber tape then wrapped with gorilla tape. Rubber tape sticks well and bonds tighter with heat over time.

 

[joedrum]

okay ill try ....say you have two bars with rings on them that fit the outside of the pipe .....lets say these rings cod be compressed to fit pipe tight so tight it wont move or slip...

okay with one pipe one way east lets say ..the other west ...you could mount one solid like clamped to the wall or something ...then you go two the center of the pipe for this method works best to star there ... and take on tiny chunks of pipe at a time and it bends without out any stress really and works perfectly with just a paper jig to lay on it to go by ....sheesh i hope that's understandable ...its easy for me cause ive done it a lot but i remember it didnt start out that way ...it was something i came up with a long time ago ... but the stuff im talking about using cant be just sorta good it has to fit and be stout and the operator has to really be on the game as the touch and torque used

oh and it cant be to wide either in a round ring like eye hook is perfect piece as it clamp to a round point or hit with hammer to for the perfect slip and bend together tool is what the fastest

 

[82a]

what about using exhaust piping, or plastic pvc type tubing for those sections that are S shaped?

the exhaust piping comes with different angled bends that could be cut to suit, or as required

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_sacat=0& ... st&_sop=12

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_sacat=0& ... pler&rt=nc

 

[zman]

The words silicone and fuel have never been a good mix together but if you used something like a radiator hose only thicker I wonder if that would hold up to fuel as well as keep from collapsing , I really like the easy hose method.
There are some materials out there we may not know of..Like looking into heavy equipment or aerospace/aviation industry.

 

[Jungo]

My runners are ready. This is what I did:

As Westgl, I considered EMT pipe but I found that 1 1/4" was too difficult to bend, since the distance is too short. Walking in Home depot I saw a top rail pipe to use in link fences. 1 3/8" x 10' @ $10.95. This pipe fits almost perfectly in the VW plenum.

So I cut a 5" pipe and installed on the port #3. Piece of cake... so far.

20130922 151954

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

20130922 152851

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

Now the big challenge, how to bend the pipe to fit the port #1. After use my 1" EMT pipe bender I notice that this kind of pipe was made not to bended and I destroy the conduit. :head bang:

Then I cut a 7" piece of pipe and made 2 "V" cuts so I can bend and make an "S".

20130922 154758

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

A friend of mine bring his wire solder and fix the "v" cuts I made to the pipe.

20130922 160744

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

Then I clean it with a grinder. Voila!

20130922 165427

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

Look how it looks once installed

20130922 163241

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

Both sides are ready:

20130922 173653

• Jungo
• Sep 22, 2013

Tomorrow I'll receive the adapter for the 34PICT carb. :yahoo:

[video]https://youtu.be/zcEyVGo9ceE[/video]

 

[zman]

Be sure and get all the jagged shards out of the pipe before you run it.

 

[Jungo]

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:20 pm[/url]":b5dlzebm]
Be sure and get all the jagged shards out of the pipe before you run it.

Yes sir! I'll polish them. Thanks for the advise. k:

 

[zman]

Jungo » Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:23 pm[/url]":1bf1gxnc]

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:20 pm[/url]":1bf1gxnc]
Be sure and get all the jagged shards out of the pipe before you run it.

Yes sir! I'll polish them. Thanks for the advise. k:

Just so we are on the same page I meant inside the pipe. one piece of steel can ruin the engine.

 

[joedrum]

good job jungo :yahoo:

 

[Dave_J]

And use caution when welding on Galvanized steel. The fumes are very VERY bad. Metal Flu. Many warnings on the web, but here's a wiki link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

 

[Jungo]

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:25 pm[/url]":1flmybar]

Jungo » Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:23 pm[/url]":1flmybar]

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:20 pm[/url]":1flmybar]
Be sure and get all the jagged shards out of the pipe before you run it.

Yes sir! I'll polish them. Thanks for the advise. k:

Just so we are on the same page I meant inside the pipe. one piece of steel can ruin the engine.

Yes zman, I'll buy a conical wire brush to use with the drill to clean any debris inside the pipe. Probably I'll apply a thin layer of an epoxy on the joints inside.

And use caution when welding on Galvanized steel. The fumes are very VERY bad. Metal Flu. Many warnings on the web, but here's a wiki link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

WOW :shock: :shock: Thanks Dave. Good info.

good job jungo :yahoo:

:yahoo: :yahoo: :mrgreen:
I'm learning from the master :mrgreen: