Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

[westgl]

Hey jungo,

That looks good good job.

That is a very tight bend, and then a opposite bend needs to be made almost immediately, to reverse direction.

The problem is anything Other than EMT conduit will be difficult for the average Joe, a different Joe, Joe.

To be able to bend this tubing at home, EMT is soft enough that it can be bent rather easily, making those turns? and opposite of each other can be done i did it with the 1" EMT, the 1" EMT measures out at 1-1/16" it is slightly oval

I want Maximum power and torque, so that is why i went with the 1-3/8" ID tube.

I dont know if i can make those bends with 1-1/4" EMT which is 1.51" OD.

Key here is to line up center to center line on each manifold runner, that is vw inlet center line and oem manifold inlet center line.

All else will work its way out, providing the radius that is needed can be made, so that the part is not longer than what is needed.

Jungo » Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:23 pm[/url]":31yhfu07]

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:20 pm[/url]":31yhfu07]
Be sure and get all the jagged shards out of the pipe before you run it.

Yes sir! I'll polish them. Thanks for the advise. k:

 

[westgl]

Nope we are not welding galvanised pipe as that is very dangerous

We are Bending it to the shape we need

I guess Jungo did do some soldering

Dave_J » Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:32 pm[/url]":j9jz7nke]
And use caution when welding on Galvanized steel. The fumes are very VERY bad. Metal Flu. Many warnings on the web, but here's a wiki link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

 

[joedrum]

great stuff today im getting fed good

 

[dan filipi]

Ride report.....

Bogging is MUCH less though the clutch does still needs to be feathered to take off.

Once moving if I accelerate slowly to about 4k rpm there is no bog then I can go wide open hitting it with both barrels without a problem and it takes off like a raped ape.
Around the city streets with no filter the sound was making people run for cover lol!

Cruising steady is smooth and quiet.

I'm getting some varying idle speeds.
Cold start it wouldn't idle until temp was at start of the thick bar then I had to bump the idle speed screw up a bit.

Back home it died at the garage when letting go of the throttle.
Restart it acted like it was flooded.

I have to go after the vacuum leaks next otherwise I'm chasing my tail.
Also look closely at this carbs ports, jets, and float level.

 

[slabghost]

Sounds like good progress.

 

[zman]

I don't want to be a pest but some idea`s are coming to mind on westgl and jungo`s project. It seems you fella`s are closer then ever to just welding a manifold together so why not use some 6061 aluminum tubing. It can be cut and soldered as Jungo has done, maybe depending on wall thickness might be able to bend it using sand filler. It can be bought in 1-1/4 and is easy and safe to cut/use.

 

[dan filipi]

Nice work Jungo!

It looks very well lined up. I like it!

 

[westgl]

That sound great dan

You are headed in the right direction.

Another thought, a vacuum leak will cause a lean condition, you said your plugs were cleaning up, if you do have a lean condition due to the vacuum leak, then a rich condition because of a over rich condition you may be richer that you thought, once you get the vacuum leak fixed.

Just a thought.

That idle hunting may go away after the vacuum leaks are corrected.

Once moving if I accelerate slowly to about 4k rpm there is no bog then I can go wide open hitting it with both barrels without a problem and it takes off like a raped ape.
Around the city streets with no filter the sound was making people run for cover lol!

What speed do you think this was at?, sounds like we found the worst part of your rich, Off idle jet.

You said WOT is crisp? Is it? and grape ape is out of his cage and screaming, sounds like the main jets may be close enough, and the off idle maybe you 2nd or 3rd place item.

This is how i would start
In this order

1. Vacuum leak
2. Float level check, while your in there look for obvious problems, dirty, residue, anything loose
3. Off idle jet / off idle circuit , Off idle seems like that is a good place to start reducing the jet size as it sounds like it was from off idle to 4k rpm, what speed were you going? approx from & to, where did it start to smooth out again speed wise & above 4k I take ?? is that right.

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 4:35 pm[/url]":2uwxdyhj]
Ride report.....

Bogging is MUCH less though the clutch does still needs to be feathered to take off.

Once moving if I accelerate slowly to about 4k rpm there is no bog then I can go wide open hitting it with both barrels without a problem and it takes off like a raped ape.
Around the city streets with no filter the sound was making people run for cover lol!

Cruising steady is smooth and quiet.

I'm getting some varying idle speeds.
Cold start it wouldn't idle until temp was at start of the thick bar then I had to bump the idle speed screw up a bit.

Back home it died at the garage when letting go of the throttle.
Restart it acted like it was flooded.

I have to go after the vacuum leaks next otherwise I'm chasing my tail.
Also look closely at this carbs ports, jets, and float level.

 

[westgl]

I have 4 pcs of 6061t6 tube in my shop, that may be used as a back up plan.

Soldering is a lot easier than welding is, for the average Joe, not you Joe another Joe.

I will take a picture of them and post them tomorrow

CM85 gave me the lead on where to get these.

Intake runners, SITE:
https://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=PIPE
$13.00 EA. (4ea. Required)
1.5" L-Bend Aluminum Pipe, Mandrel Bent Polished, 1.65mm Thick Tube, 15" Length
CXRACING.COM
Item Code: PIP150-90-L
Our Price: $13.00

CM85 cuts off the Nipple on the end of the tube,

Then opens the outlets on the VW manifold, to the size of the OD of this tube.

But a piece of hose over the exterior as a mechanical seal would be much easier, this could be radiator hose as no contact with fuel at all.

I have not tried making those cuts, but what ever angle you go one way.

You have to go equal back the same amount of cuts the other way to get back to a straight, so the center lines between ports will match

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:03 pm[/url]":383p9xwq]
I don't want to be a pest but some idea`s are coming to mind on westgl and jungo`s project. It seems you fella`s are closer then ever to just welding a manifold together so why not use some 6061 aluminum tubing. It can be cut and soldered as Jungo has done, maybe depending on wall thickness might be able to bend it using sand filler. It can be bought in 1-1/4 and is easy and safe to cut/use.

 

[dan filipi]

Not really sure about road speed I was at at 4k rpm. I tried it in first gear, in second gear, and third gear.
All times acted pretty much the same.

 

[westgl]

For Jetting

I am not sure but maybe the,

from what it sounds like, off idle to 4k, is the problem area, so off idle circuit

Off Idle circuit first

Then test ride, that should tell us how much, smaller we need to go.

and maybe just for fun,

Plug check, just as a FYI

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:30 pm[/url]":1ip02ybn]
Not really sure about road speed I was at at 4k rpm. I tried it in first gear, in second gear, and third gear.
All times acted pretty much the same.

 

[westgl]

Was the bog from off idle up to 4k?

Or was it just a bog right about at 4K?

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:30 pm[/url]":2vw23qa3]
Not really sure about road speed I was at at 4k rpm. I tried it in first gear, in second gear, and third gear.
All times acted pretty much the same.

 

[dan filipi]

westgl » Sun Sep 22, 2013 6:41 pm[/url]":2x78j3f5]
Was the bog from off idle up to 4k?

Or was it just a bog right about at 4K?

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:30 pm[/url]":2x78j3f5]
Not really sure about road speed I was at at 4k rpm. I tried it in first gear, in second gear, and third gear.
All times acted pretty much the same.

I would say bog was from idle up to 4k.
Good after 4k.

All plugs are dark but not black.

 

[westgl]

I just Won a bid for a Haynes, Webers carburetor Owners workshop manual.

$15.00, Shipping included

I should receive it in a few days,

Provides info on our DFT carb., DCD carb., and several other carbs that may be of some use, has tuning info as well and lots of pictures

 

[westgl]

I read through HP's Weber Carb. book very briefly.

I think i remember it saying Off idle circuit starts at 1000rpm,

Idle circuit is at 950rpm, and lower, so at 950rpm you are out of the off idle circuit, which may be your rich circuit

I will verify that when i receive my manual.

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:53 pm[/url]":3ubwtuj0]

westgl » Sun Sep 22, 2013 6:41 pm[/url]":3ubwtuj0]
Was the bog from off idle up to 4k?

Or was it just a bog right about at 4K?

dan filipi » Sun Sep 22, 2013 5:30 pm[/url]":3ubwtuj0]
Not really sure about road speed I was at at 4k rpm. I tried it in first gear, in second gear, and third gear.
All times acted pretty much the same.

I would say bog was from idle up to 4k.
Good after 4k.

All plugs are dark but not black.

 

[Dave_J]

You may get that T-6 to bend some without annealing it. I would try annealing it first, then bend it. It take knoweldage to anneal T-6 down to T-0 and within a few minuets its back at T-2 and slowly work hardens back up. It may never get back to T-6 but it will not stay soft long.

I would just try some stainless tube, do the 3/4 V cut, bend the V shut and Tig weld it. You could also weld a bead around the ends so a hose would have a bit of a barb to clamp to.

If I had use of a sand casting and foundry, I'd just do a split casting of a new "BENT" manifold runner that would mate to the VW TypeIV plenum. May have to Tig the seams but not a big deal.

 

[westgl]

Also just won the Haynes Techbook Weber Carburetor Manual #10240

$16.00 free shipping

It also has DCD & DFT carbs

Between the two books, it should be some interesting reading

 

[westgl]

Radiator hose could be tried.

If collapsing occurs, in the middle of the hose where the bend is, Or if you get a Kink.

You can put a 3/4" to 1" long piece of steel thin wall tubing like .055 wall thk, the same od as your ID of the radiator hose, inside the ID slide it back to the center of the ID of the Radiator hose this will keep the ID of the radiator hose Open.

You need that steel tube piece to be just long enough so that it wont cock sideways when inside the radiator hose, when you manipulate it in those curves during installation..

I was getting one kink only in the worst Hose right forward cylinder I put in a steel tube to keep the hose open and it helped, kink was very slight.

But new goal is 1-3/8" ID for MAX. power, not sure if i will get a lean/rich condition after that as i will be changing from something that works, to a unknown, but seems like mixture is right and should remain right, even after the change, just more of it through new tube.

While riding normally, cruising, i reached down and felt the manifold runners they were collapsing some while riding bike, this turbo hose is very stiff, this tells me, that that engine is pulling LOT of Vacuum through those hoses.

Funny before the ride hoses felt normal, and round, while riding they would flatten out, back after the ride, and idling, the would be mostly round again

For me the best thought going forward, is ridged wall.

I want something that does not deform, while riding

zman » Sun Sep 22, 2013 3:08 pm[/url]":2pzwajwk]
The words silicone and fuel have never been a good mix together but if you used something like a radiator hose only thicker I wonder if that would hold up to fuel as well as keep from collapsing , I really like the easy hose method.
There are some materials out there we may not know of..Like looking into heavy equipment or aerospace/aviation industry.

 

[Jungo]

:headscratch: Guys, there's a rubber line coming from the bike's rear wheel. Where did you connect it? I supposed is a vacuum related thing, right? :headscratch:

 

[westgl]

Jungo

please provide a picture

You have a 83' GL1100 Great bike!

I think you would have two hoses that need to be attached,

One from the back of the engine at the vacuum advance unit.
other left rear top of engine a crank case breather, it is a 1/2" hose i believe

1. Vacuum line for vacuum advance, this line should go to a vacuum port on your carb. It would be a port that is for Advance/retard of a Distributor Take a picture of your vacuum ports on your carb, they look like brass tubes sticking out
2. crankcase breather, run this line up to the bottom of your new air filter

I am not sure about one coming from the rear wheel

Jungo » Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:46 am[/url]":8sv83oog]
:headscratch: Guys, there's a rubber line coming from the bike's rear wheel. Where did you connect it? I supposed is a vacuum related thing, right? :headscratch: