Spin-on Oil filter option

[dan filipi]

How about using loctite on the adapter plate?

 

[skiri251]

How about using loctite on the adapter plate?

Do you mean putting loctite on threads going into the engine?
Yes, that's a good idea.

 

[dan filipi]

Yes on the threads.
My experience with the stuff is applied to clean dry threads the blue loctite will keep it there.
If we were to tack weld the nipple to the plate then loctite on the nipple into the engine I think that would make a near permanent adapter no worries of it loosening.

 

[AApple]

Here's my update on what I found today.... :builder:
Believe it or not, a regular old-style Chevy oil filter is almost a perfect replacement filter. The size is right, as it doesn't stick out any farther than the bottom of the radiator. The o-ring seal diameter is just a wee bit smaller than Honda, but it will fit, and seal.
There are, however, TWO problems.
Problem 1: The threads on the Chevy filter are almost identical. In fact, the filter will thread onto a nipple the same size as the Honda filter bolt. But....the difference is SAE threads, versus Metric threads. I'm afraid the threads would not hold, so a nipple with metric threads on one side and SAE threads on the other would be needed. That is not an insurmountable problem.
Problem 2: With the Chevy filter threaded onto the engine case, it has a gap between the filter and the engine case, because of the boss that is cast into the front of the engine case(see pic below). It's about 3/4". IF the front of the case had been flat, it would be a simple thing to get a nipple with the correct sized threads on each end, and screw the filter right on. Soooo...a spacer of some sort would be needed, to seal against the engine case, and the filter. This might be a bit tougher to find/make. I'm going to look and see what I can come up with that will work, and be commonly available.
I think the Randakk kit takes care of all this, along with having the by-pass built into the spacer..... :doh:

I ain't givin up just yet.... :nea:

 

[scdmarx]

Do not.....(repeat)......DO NOT compromise with the threads. They are correct, or they ain't. That filter will blow off when you're 100 miles from nowhere. Even though it felt good'n tight when you screwed it on.

 

[AApple]

Naw..I said it wouldn't werk...but it is close! I gotta tell ya...the filter that started this whole thread is only $16....sure looking good at this point. BUt...being able to source another, regular filter for $4-5 would be sweet, too.... :clapping:

 

[mcgovern61]

I have only been paying about $6 for my Honda filter. What is the advantage of wanting to change to a spin on filter? Both will have oil drop out when loosened and both actually spin off if you will. Plus, the Honda filter does have the bypass built in. I like the idea that I can pull my filter cartridge and actually check it for contaniments or see if anything shows up in the housing. With a spin on, you have to tear it apart to get a look. (Just my opinion)

 

[joedrum]

im with gerry on this one the honda cover is somewhat and oil cooler also with ts thickness and finns ....i like it a lot :mrgreen:

 

[skiri251]

From oil cooling POV, CB750K stock housing is much better. GL's don't really have "fins". Being water cooled, GL don't really need much oil cooling, I guess,

I want to be free from sticking my fingers into the housing to remove filter element, making sure filter bolt o-ring is in good shape (changing it if necessary), making sure housing o-ring is in good shape (changing it if necessary), making sure the o-ring stays in the groove while putting the housing back and hoping that I didn't accidentally pinch o-ring between the housing and the crank case.

But of course it's personal preference.

 

[MSGT-R]

I know I'm late to the party..

A word on filter by-passes: Yes, almost all of the good quality spin-on filters have them, and so do a few choice adapter plates.

Think a little outside the box: if you need a functioning bypass, wouldn't it just be prudent to change the filter on a regular basis? If that much crap has clogged your filter to activate the bypass, you have bigger problems brewing.. oh2:

 

[skiri251]

I know I'm late to the party..

A word on filter by-passes: Yes, almost all of the good quality spin-on filters have them, and so do a few choice adapter plates.

Think a little outside the box: if you need a functioning bypass, wouldn't it just be prudent to change the filter on a regular basis? If that much crap has clogged your filter to activate the bypass, you have bigger problems brewing.. oh2:

It's already mentioned in the previous posts, but bypass seems to open even with unclogged filter at cold start and aceleration.

 

[AApple]

That's just weird, imo. Here's how I'm looking at the bypass opening on startup(cold).
Once the engine has set for a while, ALL of the crap in the oil will settle to the bottom of the crankcase....where it will be picked up FIRST as soon as you start the engine. IF the bypass is OPEN at that point, then all of that crap is bypassing the filter, and going directly to the mains/rods....not really something that makes any sense. At least not to me.
Checking the specs for oil pressure, I see cold startup pressure is supposed to be 40-60psi, if I remember correctly. In the old days, there were no bypasses for the oiling systems in cars. They had canister-type filters. ALL the oil was filtered at all times. When the spin-on filter came into being, the bypass was required, since a lot of filters were being shot across the shop floor on cold startups, and 60-80psi of pressure....the tin can filters just couldn't handle it, and were exploding. That's where the filter bypass came in. Still a silly "fix", imho. The spin on filters today will take a little more abuse than the older designs.
I checked the spring tension in the filter bolt on my '81 yesterday...I didn't actually pull it out and stick it on a scale and measure the working tension, but it certainly felt extremely light, to me. I could see 20psi opening that thing right up. So my thought was....what the heck is the point of even having a filter, if the oil wasn't actually flowing thru it? Doesn't matter how often you change the oil/filter....the filter is just basically taking up space in the housing, it seems.
I'm seriously considering installing a stouter spring in mine, next time I change oil. I'm also going to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it then, if not before.

I like the idea of a spin-on filter for the convenience of it. Spin off, spin on....just like the Karate Kid! :smilie_happy:

 

[ekvh]

Bump anyone find something that works yet?

 

[macka]

yes thread pitch is 18x1.5mm

 

[macka]

OK according to wix the filter is part # 51358 which is a 20x15mm thread. I didn't get a chance to check my existing 18x1.5mm adapter tube, but I will make up a 20x1.5mm to be safe. I am picking up said filter today from NAPA. Pics to follow.

 

[macka]

im with gerry on this one the honda cover is somewhat and oil cooler also with ts thickness and finns ....i like it a lot :mrgreen:

jegs, pep boys, summit and Napa have covers that slip on.

 

[1TallTXn]

I eye'd the Randakk adapter, but since I can pick up Wix cartridges for ~$6/ea I'll probably be staying with the OEM system for now.

I too am somewhat worried about a puncture for the spin-on filters.
Would love the ease of changing the oil with that system, but alas, I'm a cheap, uh, guy.

 

[detdrbuzzard]

i have a randakk kit but i haven't installed it on the 1200 wing but the filter is a napa 1085