the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine

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now that's what I call smart hands ...fantastic job ...never let the hands out pace your head just great work

the areas you have pined in look mostly im the v bent ring and will be totally okay ...that ring is what really cause that to begimn with :mrgreen:
 
Last night I worked over the block. Also, the valve spring compressor and new stem seals are in, as well as the head gasket and replacements for the broken bolts. The block looked bad when the head first came off:
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But, after a couple hours last night, looks pretty good. Next, clean the bolt holes well, and Prussian blue the head to the block just to be sure. Won't be able to install until the dowel gets in, around the end of the week (I hope).
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Thanks, Joe. I'm pretty anal about most of my work because of my background in Navy nuclear power and 33 years in particle accelerators. I'd prefer a bit better flatness but will take what I have hoping the gasket and clamping force seal it well. The Prussian Blue check will tell me a lot more, and if it looks good I will be very satisfied. I hope the dowel (to replace the one I mangled pulling out) gets in this week, as that will allow me to bolt it up and get a compression test before pulling the engine from the frame.
 
Do not be surprised if compression numbers are low. Rings often stick after long sitting and with all the clean up here they are not seated. A little run time will get them reseated and compression will go up usually.
 
Installed new valve stem seals on the right head. After having done it on a head on the workbench, it doesn't seem to be much harder if it is on the bike. That will wait, though. Cleaned (wish I knew what that crud baked on the seats is, but at least it comes off with razor blades) and Prussian Blue tested the valves and seats while the springs were off. First time I've messed with engine valves since I was a teen. It came back. Wish I had a stick and some compound to doe a quick lapping, but they'll do. Cam seal looked good, so I re-installed it after cleaning where it runs on the camshaft. Head is all clean now and ready to blue check to the block tomorrow night.

Honda dealer says my speed sensor is bad on the '06, and they ordered one to come in tomorrow. Thankful for the Extended Warranty. Hope to get it back soon, I need to ride!

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Very pleased with the Prussian Blue check. Full transfer from block to head.
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May have had it on a bit thick in some places (it has been 33 years since I did this on flanges on the submarine). Everything is ready for putting the head back on (even re-calibrated my torque wrench), except the dowel - which should be in shipment to me now. I've also ordered a 10-1.25 tap to make sure all head bolt holes are smoothly threaded. Already have Honda Moly 60 standing by for the bolts and washers. Looking forward to getting the head back on and compression checked (if I get anything like Joe did, I'll faint!) so the engine can come out of the frame.

This one will get a mild cafe racer treatment. Not too severe as my back isn't 25 anymore, but I always liked the upright to slightly leaned forward posture while riding. My old RD400 with CB400-4 Honda bars was so comfortable to ride, I once rode it from Charleston, SC to Southern Kentucky and back on a weekend to go home and vote!
 
well I must say ive never used the blue stuff .....and it seems pretty impressive ....bottom line is ..the motor im messing with was just right on the fence of being to bad to mess with ....also it very hard to get ring groove cleaned ...seems I never did totally ....and there possibility that they might be damaged some im hoping it just ring groove crud and will clear with running ...there no doub that im going to try and come up with better system to deal with this ...as when it gose oldwings and no parts available ..its the only talent there is to getting these motors in shape that have been declared trash ...this appears to be just givin to us as a way to get rid of it I think while we bought the standard so everything is a gamble I welcome challenge ....I may loose a few if this kind of spark ...but I don't think so on this one but its still unknown ...im glad ive heard nothing bad so far from lower end ....so im on track.....

I really like the way you went about things as it basicly how I go blue dye and navy background dosnt change the caveman way you went about it ...your work bolsters my way of doing things and most think doing things like me is nuts ....its great to have company and to get someone else to follow along is conformation you don't have to nuts to do it this way ...you can navy guy too :smilie_happy:
 
Checking connectors and the harness. Cleaning connectors, re-doing splices a PO had done with plain butt connectors. Now double-heat shrink connectors. I found heat shrink at Harbor Freight with adhesive on the inside. Also re-wrapping some of the harness. Will need to replace some of the multi-pin connectors. Lewis Preston, owner of The Electrical Connection, is checking to see if he has any. I also found them in a Dennis Kirk catalog. Still to go over all of the places someone used quick-taps on the wires with liquid electrical tape to seal the insulation. Oh, I hate those things! They cut into the copper reducing the original conductor, create a poor connection, and allow water to go both directions under the original connector insulation. Very seldom useful, and then only in dry areas.

Meanwhile, the dowel is due in tomorrow, and I have the head bolts all moly-coated laid out with a paper towel over them, the new head gasket laying on top of the frame, and necessary tools laid out in preparation. I want to get this on and the compression tested so that the engine can come out of the frame. This fall will be a great time (it seldom is low humidity in the East Tennessee rain forest) to paint the frame, so it would be good to have it ready by then.

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Right head back on (finally), did compression check after mounting the pulley, belts, adjusting the valves. Different:

#1 - 155! Was 75
#2 - 135 Was 129
#3 - 100 :-( Was 129
#4 - 150 Was 136

Obvious intake valve leak on #3. I'm not planning on pulling the head again right now. Plenty of time this winter to buy (another) new head gasket, pull the head, lap the valves in #3 cylinder, and button it back up. The main reason that I pulled the head this time instead of waiting was that I wanted to make sure I had a viable engine in this '75. I think it will be fine, now. Also, the work on #1 cylinder was a great success! With oil in them, #3 goes to 135 (but visibly blowing back in the intake), and #1 goes to 185!

Wish I had Friday free, and I'd ride the 1800 up to join you guys this weekend at French Lick. I'll be teaching, though. At least I still have a job. For now.

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compression should even out and increase a little with running a bit. Congrats! You are after supposed to check compression with engine warmed. As nicely as you got the heads cleaned I bet that #3 intake valve seats too.
 
Pulled the front fender off, ground out the rivets and cut the back off of the fender. Reversed it and pop-riveted it on for mock up.
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Whatcha think?
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This evening the Hunley was stripped further. Front wheel, front forks, triple tree, rear wheel. Drained the fork oil. Not supposed to look like that. Water was what first came out. At least the right fork oil was somewhat pink. Surprising good discovery - she has tapered head bearings (no doubt All Balls), so they should clean up and be fine. The only frame damage I've found is the faux tank mount bent slightly - must have gone down on the right side once.
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Well, the plan was to drag the frame outside this afternoon, and grind off the rear peg mounts and the center stand mount. I got both peg brackets off, then:
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Well,that was some progress.
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