like I said it will take several sessions to get right ... but looking so much better ...im sure your happy about it still long way to go ...always start lite and get your touch going seems to a minute or two to come
the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine
- Thread starter pidjones
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Yes it's looking much better.
Keep doing what your doing.
Keep doing what your doing.
Lookin' good! She'll run.
slabghost
Well-known member
Yep it'll run.
OP
OP
Update: ordered a new Honda head gasket from HDL this morning. May be a week or two to get it, since they don't stock many OEM parts, but I have plenty to do until it comes in.
OP
OP
Pretty much finished (or grew tired of) #1 cyclinder, so I cleaned it well, flushed the ring area with copious amounts of carb cleaner (need to get more tomorrow) and sprayed it with lithium grease.
Tried to get the Dowel Pin out of the block, and it doesn't want to play. The one that stayed in the head came out easy enough.
Moved to #1 at DTC, and started on #2:
The razor really gets into this buildup, whatever it is:
It leaves the surface fairly nice, without removing metal:
I don't like the erosion on the head. The sleeves in the engine seem to be just slightly uneven with the aluminum water jacket. I need to study head gasket designs, but I think the aluminum inner ring on the gasket is supposed to crush and seal with the cylinder sleeve. I seems to have eroded away to the water jacket aluminum part:
Man, that gasket material is tough to remove! Finally decided to call it a night. After three straight hours at it, my hands are getting sore. I'll order a new dowel or make one, because I had to destroy the one in the block removing it so that I could check level. I'll probably get the surface block down tomorrow night:
Tried to get the Dowel Pin out of the block, and it doesn't want to play. The one that stayed in the head came out easy enough.
Moved to #1 at DTC, and started on #2:
The razor really gets into this buildup, whatever it is:
It leaves the surface fairly nice, without removing metal:
I don't like the erosion on the head. The sleeves in the engine seem to be just slightly uneven with the aluminum water jacket. I need to study head gasket designs, but I think the aluminum inner ring on the gasket is supposed to crush and seal with the cylinder sleeve. I seems to have eroded away to the water jacket aluminum part:
Man, that gasket material is tough to remove! Finally decided to call it a night. After three straight hours at it, my hands are getting sore. I'll order a new dowel or make one, because I had to destroy the one in the block removing it so that I could check level. I'll probably get the surface block down tomorrow night:
slabghost
Well-known member
get a large piece of plate glass and use some spray adhesive to attach sheets of 600 grit wet or dry to it. use soapy water to flush away debris and rub the heads on it to smooth the gasket surfaces.
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Have a good look at Joes work on the 1200s and you can see his caveman techniques and what a great job can be achieved if you persevere. (Joedrum)
yes hang in there ..its a big job your doing ...yours is rough but there a diamond undernearth ...unfortunitly it gets harder closer you get to the metal ...stuff is the best glue stick ive ever seen or dealt with ...if you hang all the way you will be surprised how nuch slicker the lotor turns this stuf criated all kinds of firction like brake pads or something
OP
OP
I'm already feeling the turning get easier, Joe! Hard to believe what a difference it makes. I think the cylinders are pretty good, but need to work a lot more on the heads and gasket surfaces. I'll use my surface block and Prussian blue tomorrow after final cleaning to find the high spots, and probably use your cavemen method to adjust. I have a nice large flat single-cut mill file. I call it a Russian milling machine, because we had a Russian physicist where I worked on a guest program - all he asked for to get his device to fit our chamber was a screwdriver, pliers, and two files. He made it work, too! I've already reviewed your nice work on heads and pistons.
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OP
OP
Picked up Permatex gasket remover, more carb cleaner and some brake cleaner on the way home from work. Painted the gasket remover on and left it to work. Got out the surface block and Dycem. Thought I had some Prussian blue, but couldn't locate it. I like it because you can make it so thin, and do both removal and transfer checks. After letting the remover set a couple hours, I scrapped more and used brown Scotchbrite (fine). I think it is finally all off - at least off of the high spots. Blued up the head and taped a piece of 800 grit to the surface block. Light rub on the block reveals the center of the head is low, front and back are high. Put another coat on after a few quick passes with the file, and put a coat on the block. Tomorrow I'll call a glass dealer near my workplace and see if I can get a thick piece. The surface block is too heavy to get any kind of accurate impression on the block. And, I'm sure not about to glue sandpaper to a precision granite surface block! BTW, the gasket remover was NOT worth the price! Did very little additional gasket residue softening, and was a mess to use. Takes all of the paint off, though!
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slabghost
Well-known member
Progress at least.Never tried the gasket remover goo. Don't think I ever will now. Sounds like you'll do fine getting it right again.
hmmmm ...low in the middle ....gasket remover good for nothing but paint ....well I have one head that's fits perfect on a dry fit .....and the left has some daylight to deal with today ...kaeep up the good work
OP
OP
Had to buy a piece of glass, didn't have anything thick enough. Had them cut a piece of 1/4 inch 9x11 to fit a piece of sandpaper. Spray-glued 800 grit on one side and 1200 on the other.
Ready with the implements of destruction:
I don't know if this is the correct way, but I'm applying the Dykem, sanding off the blue from the high spots, then hitting them with the file:
Slowing down and blueing more often as my high spots swap:
At least the block looks like less work. I'm surprised Honda left such deep fly cutter marks:
Enough for two hours last night. Plenty of time before HDL ships the head gasket.
Ready with the implements of destruction:
I don't know if this is the correct way, but I'm applying the Dykem, sanding off the blue from the high spots, then hitting them with the file:
Slowing down and blueing more often as my high spots swap:
At least the block looks like less work. I'm surprised Honda left such deep fly cutter marks:
Enough for two hours last night. Plenty of time before HDL ships the head gasket.
slabghost
Well-known member
Put the glass on a mat on your bench and move the head not the glass.You're chasing your tail and deforming the surface concentrating on the blue.
- Joined
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- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Remember head gaskets take up quite a lot of imperfections ( the reason why the fly cut marks are inconsequential) :good:
OP
OP
Bought a set of snap gauges today and measured the #1 and #3 bores at 6 places each. Other than the ring ridge, it is all within .04 mm. Still filing away to gt a seal on the cylinder.
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hmmm
okay lets stop right here ...and think on this ...okay don't go after block big time yet .....we need strait edge now so ...or put head on just snug heads on and use light to see gaps and all gun bore light in plug holes works good other light ways to use too ...is what id do now put the file down and check things more ways than one to see up ups
OP
OP
There has been quite a bit of progress on the heads, from right after the gasket was scrapped off:
Through filing, sanding, and checking regularly with the Dykem:
There were still areas that I am concerned about directly over the sleeve:
But, I am making progress on that area also. Although worried about reducing valve clearance, I also am concerned that the rough area is not going to seal against combustion pressures and temperatures. I have it this far tonight, and it checks flat with both the Dykem, glass, and looking for a bright light in a darkened garage under a straight edge held across it.
I think that this week I will work on the block, which after closer inspection looks like it will just need the small bit of gasket remains removed.
Through filing, sanding, and checking regularly with the Dykem:
There were still areas that I am concerned about directly over the sleeve:
But, I am making progress on that area also. Although worried about reducing valve clearance, I also am concerned that the rough area is not going to seal against combustion pressures and temperatures. I have it this far tonight, and it checks flat with both the Dykem, glass, and looking for a bright light in a darkened garage under a straight edge held across it.
I think that this week I will work on the block, which after closer inspection looks like it will just need the small bit of gasket remains removed.
