The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My day was a mixed bag.

The ABS glue made from ABS plastic and MEK was a success. Mixed 12 grams of ABS with 50 ml of MEK in a jar I rescued from the recycling bin. Took about a day to dissolve fully. While I didn't plan it, the jar was tall enough to fit the flux brush I was using, which allowed me to store the brush in the jar so it wouldn't dry out.

To fix the smaller cracks, I'd put electrical tape on the outside of the pannier to prevent seepage, then flex the container to open the crack very slightly and "paint" it with the ABS glue from the inside. The next day, while it was windy, I'd peel off the electrical tape on the outside and wipe the crack with pure MEK - the MEK on the paint evaporated quickly without doing too much damage, but it did penetrate the outside of the crack. There were a few cracks by the mounts, so after the repair, I reinforced that with ABS strips glued crosswise across the crack inside the pannier.

For the cracks by the latches, I couldn't use scrap ABS to reinforce them, because the thickness would interfere with closing the lid. I cut some screen material about 6" long, and painted it with glue on the inside as reinforcement - similar to taping drywall edges.

ABS Glue (which has 10 calories per two tablespoons):
IMG_20190724_124409307_HDR.jpg


I filled in this missing section by cutting a square out of an empty oil container, putting the square on the outside of the lid, putting a scrap of wood on the outside of the square to stiffen it, and clamping that in place. That gave me a flat form for the outside surface that the ABS wouldn't stick to. Then I built up the crack via two or three applications.

IMG_20190725_200441077.jpg


Inside of the same repair:

IMG_20190725_200456678.jpg


Reinforcement:

IMG_20190725_200448903.jpg


I tested the repaired panniers, and figured they were strong enough. Moved onto the next step: I dug out the mounting hardware. Never had it on the bike before - it came as a pile of extras. Took a few minutes to figure out how it would mount.

I got the mounts on the bike and ran into a problem. When I first got this bike, the rear turn signal assembly was horribly hacked apart. They looked like this, and would shake horribly while riding:

IMG_20190512_102115710_HDR.jpg


Taken apart, it looked like this:

IMG_20190602_201356229 (2).jpg

IMG_20190602_201424713.jpg


I ended up replacing the assembly completely.

Today, I got to discover why the mounts were hacked apart:

IMG_20190725_184322561_HDR.jpg


:sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored:

I need to think about how to handle this. I still have the old taillight assembly. I could buy two yellow lights and attach one to each pannier. Then when I wanted to run with panniers, I would have to replace the assembly with the old one, sans turn signal mounts. Which seems like a lot of work to convert back and forth, but otherwise should work.

I could try relocating the panniers. But that locates them either two far forward or too far up. And I'd have to do a lot of work on the mounts.

I could just use a dry bag and strap it to the passenger seat when I wanted to go on longer trips. :)
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211408#p211408:2177rlpr said:
saganaga » 26 Jul 2019, 00:01[/url]":2177rlpr]
Today, I got to discover why the mounts were hacked apart:

View attachment 3

:sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored:

I need to think about how to handle this. I still have the old taillight assembly. I could buy two yellow lights and attach one to each pannier. Then when I wanted to run with panniers, I would have to replace the assembly with the old one, sans turn signal mounts. Which seems like a lot of work to convert back and forth, but otherwise should work.

I could try relocating the panniers. But that locates them either two far forward or too far up. And I'd have to do a lot of work on the mounts.

I could just use a dry bag and strap it to the passenger seat when I wanted to go on longer trips. :)
Have you considered making a Tail Light Mount Extension, just move the whole T-Light assembly back 2-3 inches? It would have the added advantage of making the Tail light and Brake light more visible as well, maybe? Just a thought. -Graves-
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211409#p211409:69mjtqnz said:
GTC@MSAC » Today, 10:31 pm[/url]":69mjtqnz]
Have you considered making a Tail Light Mount Extension, just move the whole T-Light assembly back 2-3 inches? It would have the added advantage of making the Tail light and Brake light more visible as well, maybe? Just a thought. -Graves-

I never considered that. Got a link on how to do this? It does seem like it'll solve my problems.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211412#p211412:187klxsu said:
saganaga » 26 Jul 2019, 01:55[/url]":187klxsu]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211409#p211409:187klxsu said:
GTC@MSAC » Today, 10:31 pm[/url]":187klxsu]
Have you considered making a Tail Light Mount Extension, just move the whole T-Light assembly back 2-3 inches? It would have the added advantage of making the Tail light and Brake light more visible as well, maybe? Just a thought. -Graves-

I never considered that. Got a link on how to do this? It does seem like it'll solve my problems.

Never seen it done, myself. Just looking at your photo, it looks like the thing to do, but it will probably be a 1st! You will have to fabricate some sort of wedge-shaped spacer/mount to bring the tail light back off the fender at least 2-3 inches. I'd hate to suggest a wooden block, but there should be some creative way to move the whole thing back just 2-3 inches. Maybe a flat bracket hanging down from the trunk rack? I'm sure the tail light harness would have to be extended as well. I don't really like my brake light hiding under the rear trunk either, but my bags are Hondaline originals and don't hit my signals. I did add an LED brake light to my trunk, but signal/bag clearance is your main issue. Would LED signals mounted on the bags work?
 
Sheesh ...good luck here with the lights ...mine all pieced together stuff broken but hanging in there ...I made running lights on the rear turn signals ...the dual bulb tail and signal running lights ..make good lighting in the rear ...pain in the butt putting the sockets in to light up like that ...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211389#p211389:2oyleg1h said:
desertrefugee » Thu Jul 25, 2019 11:22 am[/url]":2oyleg1h]
Here are a couple of examples:
file.php

file.php
Your just trying to trick us Darrell, that’s just the same bike with the panniers removed! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211417#p211417:2775fap7 said:
GTC@MSAC » Yesterday, 9:13 am[/url]":2775fap7]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211412#p211412:2775fap7 said:
saganaga » 26 Jul 2019, 01:55[/url]":2775fap7]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211409#p211409:2775fap7 said:
GTC@MSAC » Today, 10:31 pm[/url]":2775fap7]
Have you considered making a Tail Light Mount Extension, just move the whole T-Light assembly back 2-3 inches? It would have the added advantage of making the Tail light and Brake light more visible as well, maybe? Just a thought. -Graves-

I never considered that. Got a link on how to do this? It does seem like it'll solve my problems.

Never seen it done, myself. Just looking at your photo, it looks like the thing to do, but it will probably be a 1st! You will have to fabricate some sort of wedge-shaped spacer/mount to bring the tail light back off the fender at least 2-3 inches. I'd hate to suggest a wooden block, but there should be some creative way to move the whole thing back just 2-3 inches. Maybe a flat bracket hanging down from the trunk rack? I'm sure the tail light harness would have to be extended as well. I don't really like my brake light hiding under the rear trunk either, but my bags are Hondaline originals and don't hit my signals. I did add an LED brake light to my trunk, but signal/bag clearance is your main issue. Would LED signals mounted on the bags work?


LED signals would work, but then I'm limited to always having the bags on.

I really like the space idea. I think it would have to be roughly trapezoidal in shape. Fabrication is the only difficult part - I'd have to find a welder after shaping the parts. And make sure there's enough spare cable to move the taillight assembly back further. Still mulling this over.
 
Installed the trunk. Would rather prefer to install the side cases and leave the trunk off for now, but that's not going to happen without metal fabrication.

Haven't wired up the lights yet. Should I wire up the trunk lights to the brakes, or to the running lights? I'd normally do running lights, but maybe it would be better to increase brake visibility.

IMG_20190729_201700733.jpg

IMG_20190729_201720620.jpg

IMG_20190729_201749892.jpg
 
I bought an oval 10-LED light (from Wally-World) for my Samsonite Trunk that does both! You can add it to the flat space on your trunk lid. Yours actually has more surface space than mine did, and I only had to cut a small 1" square hole in the lid for the plug-connection, as the lamp itself was surface mounted with 3M 2-sided pressure sensitive tape. Then I sat behind it, in my 92 Astro Van, to see how bright and obvious it was, and it can't be missed! (secretly I hope it blinds every cager that tries to tailgate me, lol!) -Graves-
BTW, I'm still thinking on that tail light extension for you, too!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211542#p211542:1g0jga10 said:
GTC@MSAC » July 29th, 2019, 10:01 pm[/url]":1g0jga10]
I bought an oval 10-LED light (from Wally-World) for my Samsonite Trunk that does both! You can add it to the flat space on your trunk lid. Yours actually has more surface space than mine did, and I only had to cut a small 1" square hole in the lid for the plug-connection, as the lamp itself was surface mounted with 3M 2-sided pressure sensitive tape. Then I sat behind it, in my 92 Astro Van, to see how bright and obvious it was, and it can't be missed! (secretly I hope it blinds every cager that tries to tailgate me, lol!) -Graves-
BTW, I'm still thinking on that tail light extension for you, too!

I keep thinking about that taillight extension as well. I haven't hauled the mounts out of the basement again, but they appear to have two chrome bars that goes across the back of the bike for stiffening. I could make a mount the taillight assembly to that, but it could irreversibly mar the chrome, and it could look ugly.

My box already has lights, so I probably won't mess with replacing them.
 
I'm wondering if it can be partially suspended from the trunk rack? And about the 3rd brake light, you wouldn't have to remove the other 2 lights that are in the trunk, just add the LED brake light to the flat area of the lid itself. I will have to work on making a picture file here so I can share some ideas with photos, lol!
 
Suspending it from the trunk rack is a great idea. I've been mulling it over, and I think I have a solution, but I'll need to make a template to test fit it, which should take probably over half a day. Probably not going to happen this week.

Been doing more long rides, and I'm making modifications in that department. Ordered some cheap highway pegs to test the fit. Also a cheap bead seat cover to see if it helps with the warm seat situation on hot days. Never tried one before, but apparently some Goldwing riders love them, while others hate them.
 
Took off the radio yesterday because it seemed iffy - hard to tune, less stations than my car. Thought it could be corrosion or a loose antenna connection. But everything looked clean.

Was driving my 40 year old truck today with a slightly newer, but still analog, radio, and realized I get about all the same stations and the Goldwing. Well dang.

I kind of hate the thought of putting a new radio in it, because I either get to deal with a parasitic load, or have the radio forget where it's tuned every time the bike is turned off. But I think I'll have to do that eventually.

Did a few things today - highway pegs (not really a success, the crash bars on this are a little weird, so the pegs sit high), the cupholder, and a bead seat. Hope to get some pictures up tomorrow. Planning on taking this bike 200 miles on a road trip in a few days, so I'm doing some last minute prep. Gotta test drive it tomorrow.
 
Productive few days.

First, I installed a cupholder. Alas, I discovered I can't fit a straw under my full face helmet - guess when I wear out this helmet, I'll be looking at modular options. But it is still convenient for carrying a cup.

IMG_20190807_200528478.jpg


I also tried some cheap footpegs. Which seem to mount too high on the engine guards, but on the other hand, provide quite a nice bit of ventilation since it moves my leg well away from the cylinder heads. I may keep them there.

IMG_20190807_200539327.jpg


The bead seat cover is a bust. Just not comfortable on it. Alas, it was only a $20 experiment, so I'm not too sad. Maybe I'll put them in my truck instead.

(Next post - I'll put the pictures of cutting down the windshield.)
 
First time cutting down a windshield. I stuck a small sliver of electrical tape an inch down from the top of the windshield, and another two inches down. Then I drove around for a bit. An inch seemed about the sweet spot, so I went with 1 1/4" down from the top.

I masked off the edge of the windshield and my jigsaw's foot with painter's tape. I ran low on tape, else I'd have masked off the whole windshield.

IMG_20190807_152727625.jpg


I made a template with the existing edge of the windshield and some cardboard. I marked the edge of the windshield, on the painter's tape, six inches up on either side, then lined up the cardboard, clamped it to the windshield, and traced around it while pressing the cardboard flat against the windshield. I cut out the template with a pair of scissors. (Template can be seen under the jigsaw in the previous picture.) I also traced the bottom edge of the cardboard on either side of the windshield by the painter's tape.

IMG_20190807_151302009_HDR.jpg


After cutting it out, I drew another line under the 6" line, using the width of a metal ruler I had (1 1/4"). I then clamped the cardboard template in the lower position and traced around it on the tape. To doublecheck that the template was a mirror image, I flipped it over and checked that it still lined up. Poster board probably would have been a better, more flexible template material, but I only had cardboard. I also threw a dropcloth over the bike. Cutting is a pretty messy job.

IMG_20190807_152022523_HDR.jpg


Slow and steady did it. Think the jigsaw blade was a 21 or 24 TPI metal blade. I cut very slowly and carefully, using my fingers on the edge of the jigsaw foot to help guide it. (I'm not responsible for anyone who tries this and lose a finger, but it seemed pretty safe with my jigsaw.) I didn't want the cut edge to flap and crack the windshield, so after getting halfway there, I stopped the jigsaw and added a clamp on the cut end. I started again, and as I neared the end, I stopped and added another clamp in the center of the cut. I finished the cut without cracking the windshield.

IMG_20190807_153438377_HDR.jpg

IMG_20190807_153636017_HDR.jpg


I lined up the cut piece with the edge, using the stock edge as a better, smoother template. I made a few corrections with the jigsaw.

After cutting it, I taped some cardboard over the rest of the windshield. (I really should have had more painters tape.) I didn't want to scratch the remaining windshield if I dropped a tool or sandpaper.

I did the remaining shaping of the edge with a four in one hand rasp, then a smoother file. With the smooth file, I tried to round the edge slightly to match the edge I didn't cut.

After I had the edge exactly how I wanted it, I went through three grits of sandpaper to smooth out the file marks - I think it was 80, 120, and 150 grit. A sander would be faster, but easier to screw up. Between grades, I wiped down the edge with a damp cloth to make sure I didn't miss any spots.

I ended up washing the windshield afterwards to get rid of a little tape residue, and since the windshield was clean, I polished it with some plastic polish and then applied a new RainX coating. I really like how it turned out - at first glance, it doesn't even appear to have been cut.

IMG_20190807_165413381_HDR.jpg


On a short test ride tonight, it seems to have made a huge difference. I couldn't really tell if I had any increased buffeting or not - it was a rather windy afternoon. If there is increased buffeting, it is minor.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=211787#p211787:31n51r6f said:
FlipFlop » Today, 7:48 pm[/url]":31n51r6f]
Before removing mine to its nakedness I removed the radio and installed a drawer in its place. I never listened to a radio anyway on the bike.

I like having a radio and listening to random local stations when I'm out in the boonies.
 
Very nice re-cut on the plexiglass! I don't listen to my factory radio either, but it operates a factory clock on the fairing top edge, which I do use.
 
Top