Red would be the best for not destroying your night vision.chilidawg":2muyf57g said:
The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100
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Hmmm blue looks nice though also
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Blue shouldn't be any brighter than the high-beam indicator, but sometimes you just have to try one out and see how it goes. I agree that the green one might be a little too bright at night.
My thoughts are to utilize the old right hand radio set anchor hole to mount it, the left hand hole I'm kinda thinking would be a good place for the C5 4 way switch, if I ever get to see one for sale anywhere.
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saganaga
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=210593#p210593:1854xlea said:
You were right - should have done the water pump. After a few hundred miles, I noticed some weeping when it cools down/starts up. Green coolant.
:sensored:
Even had the replacement pump (metal blades) when I replaced it. Maybe a PO used the wrong antifreeze, but I'm guessing it's just due to being used after sitting for awhile. Could be a bad o-ring as well, but I doubt it - O-rings seemed fine when I installed them.
Going to go with the K&L gasket kit again, and the Honda OEM pump.
Think I'm going to try not to remove the radiator this time - the top bolts look like you can remove them with wobble extension, and everything should still be pretty clean from last time. We'll see how successful that idea is.
ETA: Neutral safety switch may be a problem if I don't remove the radiator. *sigh*
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saganaga
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In other news, the battery didn't have enough juice to start the Goldwing after sitting two weeks. No surprise - the battery sat for a few years without being hooked up to a tender. Had to jump it - bump start wasn't working.
But I'm trying to ignore it this year - we have only a few more weeks of good riding weather left in Minnesota. It's already wired for a tender, so I'll keep it on the tender for fall riding, and replace the battery come spring.
But I'm trying to ignore it this year - we have only a few more weeks of good riding weather left in Minnesota. It's already wired for a tender, so I'll keep it on the tender for fall riding, and replace the battery come spring.
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saganaga
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Went out to swap out the water pump, but now I'm questioning if I need to.
The oldwing still had a drop of antifreeze underneath the engine even after sitting for a week. But it was on the front waterpump cover seal, not from the weep hole. With how the bike was parked, the waterpump cover was slightly higher than the weep hole.
Hmmmm. I went over all three bolts again and found I could tighten one a bit. Fired up May and found no leaks from the weep hole. Even inserted a pick to make sure the weep hole is clear. Started the bike up and let it run for a bit, no leaks. I'm waiting for everything to cool down now and I'll doublecheck for more leaks.
The pump that is currently in the bike is already a replacement pump by a previous owner - it has the metal blades, not the plastic ones.
What do you guys think? Because I'm thinking I don't need a new water pump.
The oldwing still had a drop of antifreeze underneath the engine even after sitting for a week. But it was on the front waterpump cover seal, not from the weep hole. With how the bike was parked, the waterpump cover was slightly higher than the weep hole.
Hmmmm. I went over all three bolts again and found I could tighten one a bit. Fired up May and found no leaks from the weep hole. Even inserted a pick to make sure the weep hole is clear. Started the bike up and let it run for a bit, no leaks. I'm waiting for everything to cool down now and I'll doublecheck for more leaks.
The pump that is currently in the bike is already a replacement pump by a previous owner - it has the metal blades, not the plastic ones.
What do you guys think? Because I'm thinking I don't need a new water pump.
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Mine has the newer pump and leaves a drop of coolant now and then. I think of it as the bikes character and just marking her spot.
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saganaga
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No leaks that I've noticed while out and about today. Parked it in the garage. Flipped over a clean drain pan and put a piece of paper on top of it, then placed that under the engine to detect leaks. I'll see if anything develops. If it is still good in a few days, I'm returning the water pump and gasket kit.
I too will also go along with your way of thinking. "If it ain't broke", etc. etc.
It's a job you really don't want to do unless you have to, or, you already have the motor out.
So much can go wrong that's not even relevant to the water pump when you pull that front cover.
And that's with the motor out and everything accessible.
It's a job you really don't want to do unless you have to, or, you already have the motor out.
So much can go wrong that's not even relevant to the water pump when you pull that front cover.
And that's with the motor out and everything accessible.
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Likely th PO did not tighten the cover sufficiently. I would hand on to the pump and gaskets for a bit, though.
+1 on that! :wave:
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That lower pump cover with the hose fitting has an o ring on it to seal. The o ring gets flat with age and can leak, or if it has a nick in it. The kit you have may have a new o ring in it.
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saganaga
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212563#p212563:152ch0qb said:
Not the previous owner - that was all my bad.
The PO did strip the oil drain plug and tried to repair it. That failed on me while changing the oil, so I replaced the front transmission cover. I did all new gaskets at that time. The water pump was the new style, with metal fins, and it didn't have any play in it nor showed any indication of leaking, so I reused it.
I torqued everything down to spec (I think there was a spec for those bolts) but apparently one bolt needed to be a little tighter.
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212568#p212568:n67n0290 said:
Oh Hey! I have a fix for that now, too! As long as the drain hole doesn't get cracked, which still happens, I have found a hard-to-find Heli-Coil Kit for Honda 14x1.5mm Drain plug Holes. I had to order it through NAPA, and it was $50.00+
I get so many Honda cars and minivans in my shop with damaged pan threads, I had to find a permanent repair. I hate pulling Oil pans, because most of the FWD motors have the exhaust pipes blocking pan removal, or a motor mount, or a frame.
Always use a new drain plug gasket at least every other oil change, so it can compress without pulling on fragile pan threads! Bikes are usually worse because the oil pan is so thin at the drain hole.
The kit will be good for rethreading any 14x1.5mm hole.
P.S. Never use self-tapping over-size drain plugs, amatuers and quickee-lube places do this and I am usually the one who gets stuck with finding them, and having to do the proper repairs.
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saganaga
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212570#p212570:3e5k8eml said:
PO already drilled it out and retapped it, then put a Time-Sert in it (as far as I can tell). That broke when extracting the drain plug, cutting through the new threads and destroying them in the process.
Couldn't really drill it out any more, and having it welded and redrilled was more expensive than swapping it out.I do have a cheap collection of crush washers I picked up off Amazon that I use whenever I remove a bolt with a crush washer. It's one of those almost-necessary kits, like having a cotter pin assortment or hose clamp assortment.
The older I get, the more and more paranoid I am about stripping bolt holes. It is always a PITA when that happens.
How much do you have in to that water pump? I might need one!
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saganaga
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=212583#p212583:19emkp23 said:
You'll probably get a better deal with buying it direct, due to my state having sales tax.
I'm going to try to return it.
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saganaga
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Went out to the garage again, and there's still a few droplets of green antifreeze on the gasket for the water pump cover. :crying: Grabbed the level, and the weep hole is definitely lower than the gasket.
Just in case there's something odd with surface tension or a draft going on, I stuck a small screwdriver in the weep hole to draw any leaks down, away from the gasket. Then I wiped off the droplets. I'll check it tomorrow.
Called up the Honda place, and they can get the dowels for $1.50 each and the gasket for $5.50. Special order. If there are droplets on the gasket tomorrow, I'll order them and then pull off the water pump cover. Which probably requires removing the false gas tank to refill the radiator, which requires removing the Vetter fairing to access the two front bolts on the false tank. *sigh*
Here's what I'm planning to replace. Any problems with replacing just this?
Just in case there's something odd with surface tension or a draft going on, I stuck a small screwdriver in the weep hole to draw any leaks down, away from the gasket. Then I wiped off the droplets. I'll check it tomorrow.
Called up the Honda place, and they can get the dowels for $1.50 each and the gasket for $5.50. Special order. If there are droplets on the gasket tomorrow, I'll order them and then pull off the water pump cover. Which probably requires removing the false gas tank to refill the radiator, which requires removing the Vetter fairing to access the two front bolts on the false tank. *sigh*
Here's what I'm planning to replace. Any problems with replacing just this?
When you put the false tank back on leave those bolts out ...what a nightmare they are to deal with ...
