the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134042#p134042:3dik2gyb said:
ekvh » Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:16 pm[/url]":3dik2gyb]
Watching with interest. You probably have, but just checking that you have enough height to clear the coolant tubes.

More than enough. As shown about 3" above the heads. I cut the couplers in half to make it sit lower. Without that cut it would sit 3/4" higher.
 
As I understand it you plan to use straight carb boots to hold the pvc manifold to the heads. I don't think the rubber collar in those will transmit near enough heat to even soften the pvc.But it's your project have at those heat sinks if you like.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134056#p134056:a5uu5uyh said:
slabghost » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:38 am[/url]":a5uu5uyh]
As I understand it you plan to use straight carb boots to hold the pvc manifold to the heads. I don't think the rubber collar in those will transmit near enough heat to even soften the pvc.But it's your project have at those heat sinks if you like.

You're right, it's probably ok without them. The stock intakes do get too hot to touch which would be too much for pvc but they are aluminum and very good heat conductors. Just a thought if it does become a problem.
 
I must have been getting really tired last night because I didn't notice the Mikuni 002-054 I-VM36-200-1 flange has 70mm bolt hole spacing meaning it could work as a flange for the Solex! That's another $25 but if it works it would save quite a bit of work making one. My only worry is it's flexible which may not be best. But it's still pretty stiff. If using that I would absolutely take dkl's advice to mount the cable right on the carb so there's no movement of the cable relative to the carb no matter what else moves. I mean the whole carb/cable assembly can move a bit but the are always the same relative to each other.
What do you guys think of using one of these to mount the carb? You could even rotate it or swap to a different size easily. It wouldn't need a gasket, either.

miluni flange.JPG
 
The base where the carb will mount should be plenty rigid enough for the job. A 3" rise from the runners is what VW used for theirs.
 
I have an aluminum VW flange I intended to solder/braze onto the copper part but this it really tempting.
PVC MANIFOLD 12.JPG


I just realize they don't make those nifty 5-ways in copper. I'm going to have to fab one somehow.
 
Almost none of the parts I have will work. I'll have to return them and get some others. Anyway, here's the design in copper. 2 of the 45s still need to be trimmed but it's even less than in the pvc. The Mikkuni flanges are 4mm too big on the ID I think. I won't know for sure until I have them in my hands.
COPPER MANIFOLD 1.JPG
 
Those mikkuni isolator/flanges normally have carbs hanging off them so even though your carb is much bigger/ heavier I don't think that will be a problem as the weigh is bearing straight down. I agree the cost of an extra flange is well worth the time/ hassle of trying to make a carby mount. :good:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134093#p134093:10m9cvh8 said:
Ansimp » Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:04 am[/url]":10m9cvh8]
Those mikkuni isolator/flanges normally have carbs hanging off them so even though your carb is much bigger/ heavier I don't think that will be a problem as the weigh is bearing straight down. I agree the cost of an extra flange is well worth the time/ hassle of trying to make a carby mount. :good:

:yes:
 
Ok, I have to make a decision. Metal or plastic? The PVC version will cost 20% less and go together much quicker since the only fab work is cutting tubes. Almost anyone can make one if they have $125 and a hand saw. It will probably be immune to icing. The metal one costs more (about $160 I think) but will be more durable, heat proof, look better (at least less like a pile of plumbing parts) but requires some metalwork making the intake/plenum section and possibly a bit to get the ends to fit well in the slightly larger Mikuni boots.

Which do you want to see me make?
 
You already have the pvc manifold near complete and it will probably fit those carb holders better. Why not do that and move on to getting the carb dialed in?
 
i dont mean to sound critical ...but the dkl set up you been messing with has been done by several ... with success as far as i know ..i dont know much about it except it was easy for me to see it was good concept ... dkl on this forum has a great ride video showing perfectly how well it works for him ...personally i am not a fan of using stock intake horns ... why been there and done it and also made it work on my bike ...but there is a certain way to go about it to get it to seal ...but it can take not much to disturb the seal i know i have seen myself on my bike ...

but the dkl system is great ... i think the biggest problem is the differences in the carbs and clones made ... your graphics are great ... but i am thinking your hands at putting this together good is suspect ....smart hands are the tools there are.....

fitting lengths are different between manufacturers ...dkl made this perfectly clear ......and your original problem of not having enough glue lap is mostly there ... but really pvc glue actually melts the two fitting together ... and if done good you dont need much at all ... so i think the prep work is lacking here ..as said before i am not trying to slam or be critical here only help ..... :popcorn:
 
Back up- do you mean seals at the carb or heads? How did others get PVC manifolds to the heads without the horns?
Yeah, dkl warned me he used close 45s for more room but my local store didn't have them. I would have had to find them and order them which now is no big deal given all the other parts I have or will order. I was trying to get it done for an event and I cut corners. It's possible the ones I got were thicker or had other factors that made them hard to fit.
 
Well it seems Chuck is asking us to help him decide which way he should go.

Personally I really like copper and those Mikuni flanges look great.
I don't like the concern of heat using pvc for the long haul but it is much cheaper to build the first one using it.
Pvc may not be a concern if other things are done to help get cooling air around it like removing the air shield behind the fan.

I think Chuck is doing a good job planning and considering all options for a simple build.
DKL built his one way and as I always say, there are many ways to get the job done.
Keep at it Chuck.
 
I have the luxury of having the means to 3d model everything and measure very precisely so I do it. It lets me play with ideas and make sure everything fits when I start cutting. Believe me, you haven't seen all the things I've drawn! I only post the ones that make sense!

I sketched up heat sinks to put under the flanges on the heads to help get the heat out before it gets to the plastic. There's a good minimum 1/2" of rubber between them and I could raise them a bit more if I had to. There's fast moving air on the inside that will do a lot to cool it. PVC is rated to carry 140* water all day. I think I'm in the safe zone.
 
the dkl set up uses the stock intake horns ... i am not sure the dkl one is a long lasting one ...without modding the stock intake horns big time....do i think they can be modded ..yes ...id toss the oring at head and just make custom leather gaskets,,, completely upgrade the rubber end ...even the intake horns on stock racks leak a lot ...some spend 500$ or more having kits and super carb guys rebuild there carbs ... and it dont fix the bad sealing intake horn or horns ... so this is not dkl system exclusive problem ...its been a problem for yrs ...imagine spending that much money over a leaking intake horn ... it happens ..
 
For the future when I try a 2 barrel carb, would this work to mount it?

640-2900.png


White 2" x 4" Gutter or Deck drain with grate and screws. Adapts to 2" sch 40 pvc pipe. Use with or without grate. Also has 2" FPT (female NPT) on the slip socket side. Comes with screws Price: $9.43
 
PVC is the fastest and most sure way to a running wing, so I ordered the pvc 5 way last night and will get the Mikuni parts tomorrow. I can't find where flexpvc.com is so the parts could get to me monday or NEXT monday.
 

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