The Wanderer - Part 2

[Rednaxs60]

made2care » Yesterday, 6:23 pm[/url]":10mhvrka]
Is 3 1/2 quarts the correct oil capacity for a complete oil change including new filter? For a 1980 Gl1100 that is.
Still waiting on Clymer manual.

I have the OEM service manual in PDF format for the 1100 if you would like. It's large and I use wetransfer to send large files. If you would like a copy send me a PM with your email.

Cheers

 

[made2care]

Okay, today was a big day. 87 degrees, really? This would be the first time I get to take out "The Wanderer". Remember, when I bought her, the rear brake caliper was locked up and the carbs were flooding and leaking.
Here are some more observations, this time from on the road, focusing on this loud noise coming from what appears to be the left rear portion of engine.

The noise is constant, however , when she is in 5th gear and i am going about 50 mph , i pulled in the clutch and the sound reduced quite a bit , as if it slowed down. When i let off the clutch , the noise returned loud as ever.

The clutch shifts very nicely, no problems there.
Carbs are working great!

I do have an oil leak coming from weep hole by water pump. That's an easy fix as I have replaced a water pump and seal before.
Surely a bad water pump is not making all this noise, just a thought.

 

[slabghost]

I suppose it's possible the noise is the water pump. Sound can travel in strange ways. Word of caution until you know what the noise is and get it fixed. Keep your fingers on the clutch lever. If the motor decides to lock up that will keep you up and moving.

 

[brianinpa]

That noise is too loud at the rear of the engine for it to be the water pump. I'm still suspect of the rotor. What does the inside of the access cap for the bolt on the back of that shafts look like? Any wear marks?

 

[made2care]

brianinpa » 9 minutes ago[/url]":38tjfi0p]
That noise is too loud at the rear of the engine for it to be the water pump. I'm still suspect of the rotor. What does the inside of the access cap for the bolt on the back of that shafts look like? Any wear marks?

It looks fine.

 

[joedrum]

im with brian it dose seem rotor is whats making the noise ...get a wooden stick and put it on rotor housing and the other end close to your ear ...should be able to pin point the noise ...it either in the rotor or back 1/2 the motor on that side ....

 

[made2care]

I removed water pump housing and the prop is metal, so someone changed out the oem. appears to be in good shape, no movement.
Coolant did have some small (very small) pieces of metal and the amount was not too much.

So does the rotor have a bearing?

This pic helps.

https://www.wingovations.com/communities ... 771116.jpg

 

[joedrum]

well yes theres a bearing involved in its spinning of the shaft its all on ....

 

[made2care]

geeeesh, wasn't thinking, how else would it rotate.

 

[dan filipi]

If it's leaking slightly run with it for awhile. Mine leaks after parked awhile but stops after I run it regularly.

 

[canuckxxxx]

made2care » Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:39 am[/url]":3b411mzi]
I removed water pump housing and the prop is metal, so someone changed out the oem. appears to be in good shape, no movement.
Coolant did have some small (very small) pieces of metal and the amount was not too much.

So does the rotor have a bearing?

This pic helps.

https://www.wingovations.com/communities ... 771116.jpg

That's a neat picture :thanks:

 

[brianinpa]

canuckxxxx » Sun Feb 12, 2017 5:25 pm[/url]"a8kvrlf]

made2care » Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:39 am[/url]"a8kvrlf]
I removed water pump housing and the prop is metal, so someone changed out the oem. appears to be in good shape, no movement.
Coolant did have some small (very small) pieces of metal and the amount was not too much.

So does the rotor have a bearing?

This pic helps.

https://www.wingovations.com/communities ... 771116.jpg

That's a neat picture :thanks:

It sure is... I just added it to my desktop slideshow.

 

[wedoo2]

Maybe it's time to open photoshop.

 

[made2care]

Well, just when I thought things were going well. :head bang:

I checked valve clearances and a few needed re adjusting. Checking timing belts and they appear to be very new. Put everything back. topped off radiator with fresh coolant, ran bike for a bit getting ready to re sync . Saw a puff of smoke and realized that the carbs started leaking. could not believe it. I worked painstakingly on them and was very careful with all the o rings and such. appears to be dripping from plenum which has a new gasket.
I am #*##><^*** majorly :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored:

I am seriously going to switch this to a single carb and as far as the engine noise. I'm not messing with it, later I might just do an engine swap.

 

[dan filipi]

Man sorry to hear that after it was going so well!

I bet you have a flaky needle and seat.

 

[Denver]

Good chance Dan's right, anything at all can cause the needle not to seat.

 

[brianinpa]

Well that sucks. Any chance the float is just stuck and not shutting off the flow? Did you tap the bowl?

 

[dan filipi]

Also try running the bowls empty with the fuel turned off and engine running, or by draining the bowls with the drain screw and fuel turned off. Emptying them like this has cured a flood problem several times for me.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh oldwing carbs ....only thing worse than a cv carb ...is 4 of them LOL

 

[kerryb]

If you do have to take the carbs off again (grrrrh.) try polishing the needle seats with a q-tip. Worked well as the final fix on a carb set I worked on with similar issues.