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With only 26.5K miles on it, those are probably the factory hone marks. The area that you're concerned about looks like a stain instead of wear. It's in the left side cylinder, so if the bike sat for a long time on the side stand, and the carb leaked, that's probably what caused it.

The bulge in the head gasket is fairly normal. That area is in the gap between the cylinder and outer case, so it's not compressed against any metal. I think you've got a pretty good lookin' engine there!

So - what prompted you to tear down the engine? It sounded great in the last video! Or have I missed something...
 
he has a knock on one cylinder cant remeber what piston he said ... like to see that cylinder ... needs to turn by hand at cranshaft bolt and look for hesitation time when it tops out at full stroke ...see if there all equal .... put your finger on piston rock crank back and forth try to feel for looseness...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=118631#p118631:1m3gj4zd said:
joedrum » Wed May 21, 2014 10:08 am[/url]":1m3gj4zd]
he has a knock on one cylinder cant remeber what piston he said ... like to see that cylinder ... needs to turn by hand at cranshaft bolt and look for hesitation time when it tops out at full stroke ...see if there all equal .... put your finger on piston rock crank back and forth try to feel for looseness...


I put the scope to use as far as i can see at the turn of the crank it appears to be feels on time. the head gasket that rt=ight side is out of round for sure @1 . imploded like with carbon in the groves of the imploded . see before I could unplug the coil wire on #1 an the sound would stop. Now it dose it on every compression stroke . an #3 idel jet is clogged all but #3 are @ 400"f idle.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=118621#p118621:2ww7di88 said:
Steve83 » Wed May 21, 2014 2:06 am[/url]":2ww7di88]
With only 26.5K miles on it, those are probably the factory hone marks. The area that you're concerned about looks like a stain instead of wear. It's in the left side cylinder, so if the bike sat for a long time on the side stand, and the carb leaked, that's probably what caused it.

The bulge in the head gasket is fairly normal. That area is in the gap between the cylinder and outer case, so it's not compressed against any metal. I think you've got a pretty good lookin' engine there!

So - what prompted you to tear down the engine? It sounded great in the last video! Or have I missed something...
a couple this . ! it would rattle under load romping #1 over 5 grand dont hear nothing cruse speed 4200 . Just a bad carb I believe. this bike has allways idle ran fine. but the new pop pop sound is all the time now. I have a real good mp3 of it running you can hear it perfect. soild 1000 rpm's . my user name is my email @gmail
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=118630#p118630:yn26eeqe said:
dan filipi » Wed May 21, 2014 8:50 am[/url]":yn26eeqe]
That engine looks in good condition.
Stains on the bottom side of the cylinder are common and nothing to worry about.
I'd put it back together.


Fuel stains .. Duh Thanks Dan.. :swoon: lol
 
Oh here is a nother thought to. I put the Dyna in there so that boosted the spark temp. its a hotter explosion now./. Just a head gasket .. I'll take a couple better videos too. I'm picking up an 1100 motor and drive with part of the swing arm drive shaft ect off the 1100 as well as the front fork triple anect.

Ps in the utube video right is left an left is right. they were up side down. I'm sure someone seen that. also you can see it is not a complete circle ring on the gasket for the #1 jug to head.
 
bone yard Crushed the 1100 Missed it. I was not fast enough. So it looks like it will sit on the bench a while. Need to run down a set of head gaskets and the front water jackets o rings gasket. Or a good kit . Any link's ..? I stopped at splitting the case looking into pic's lift points dal pin locations ect
 
Okay fellows and fellets. I pulled the case apart. Found the bearing is wore I saved it before it started wearing into the shine part they are still gray but there is to much wear and small pits in the bearing surface. I have pictures and I will have a video up soon. I have never used plastic gauge. there is micro scratch's in the crank nothing scary, real light. So I guess my next step is using the plastic gauge to check what bearings I need I'm unsure how to do this . like check with or without the bearings in place.. A heads up would be cool. Any takers..? :popcorn:


[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4Baz_g3Mc4&feature=youtu.be[/video]
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The bearings don't look badly worn, or there would be copper showing. The pitting would be my main reason for replacing them. How do the others look? The pistons look good. How many miles on this engine - 26,500? One thing I did notice is the primary chain looks very loose, very common in the 1000 engines. That will make some noise. How did the oil look when you drained it? I'm wondering what caused the pitting on the bearings...

Pull the other rods, and also the mains, and let's see how the crank journals look.

There are markings on the case (right front, behind the timing belt tensioner), the crank, and the connecting rods (I, II, or III on the case, 1, 2, or 3 on the rods (the letters are the weight codes), and both letters and numbers on the crank). There are charts in the service manual, in the Gallery, that will tell you what bearings you need. (75 to 79 GL1000 Shop Manual, Chapter 6 Engine Lower End Repair, page 6-18 and 6-19) The bearings have dabs of paint on the edge - brown, green, yellow, black, or blue - as thickness codes.
 

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