Vacuum advance and pluse generator (VACUUM ADVANCE REBUILD)

[mike in idaho]

what an engneering feat from hell those bolts are just stupid thinking taken to the height insane reasoning

Most likely a gift from our EPA bureaucrats. Adjusting the timing affects emissions, therefore(as they see it) making the timing non-adjustable helps emissions. I wonder if GL1100s,sold in other countries, have the tamper proof bolt also.

 

[joedrum]

yes the country is ran and regulaterd by idiots desk jockeies of the so call education system of total disfunctional people with abilities to do nothing at all except to tie a tie around there neck ...people wonder what wrong with america

 

[mcgovern61]

yes the country is ran and regulaterd by idiots desk jockeies of the so call education system of total disfunctional people with abilities to do nothing at all except to tie a tie around there neck ...people wonder what wrong with america

C'mon Joe, tell us how you really feel! :smilie_happy:

 

[danf]

I thought I was the only disfunctional person on here...I have learned there are several... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :fishin: Now fix that vacuum advance already.. :smilie_happy: :good: :heat: :rant: :hihihi:

 

[slabghost]

:head bang: Mine is leaking super bad. Vacuum gauge won't even move there is so little resistance! Oh well back to the drawing board. :head bang: :head bang:

If that is the case, the first thing I would do is block off the carb at the pipe on number 3.... Man your carb is sucking air big time..It's really no different than a vacuum leak..this is until you repair your advance is all I'm saying ...

Single carb on it now and yes it is a bad vacuum leak. Severe thunderstorm warning in effect now for this area. Loss of the vacuum advance unit in combination with all the extra air through the vacuum port makes for some really lousy running.

 

[scdmarx]

I sure wish it wasn't such an ordeal to get at these things. Maybe I'll consider doing my 83 when I need to do the tire again. You just know that suckers leaking. I think this darned E-3 is gonna last forever!

 

[StevenCnNC]

scdmarx, you had a great post (#208) especially with the pictures. That helped a lot. I did the same thing with mine after reading your post and had good results. Only thing I see that needs to be added to your post is to take 0000 steel wool and clean out the 2 halves of the housing of all dirt and crud that may may be in there as mine was pretty cruddy and clean the outer wall of the cup on the diaphram. The dirt and crud will continue to wear holes in the diaphram. I will say that your vacuum advane unit looked a lot better than mine and a lot cleaner on the inside.

 

[scdmarx]

Hi StevenCnNc,
Welcome to the greatest GoldWing information resource on the net. Please introduce yourself, and tell us a little about yourself (and your "Wing") in the New Members Forum. :wave:

PS, We really like to look at pictures. We're just funny that way. :ahem: Got any of your GoldWing? :lust:

 

[StevenCnNC]

Well, the good results of the bench test continued after putting the unit on the bike. I chased this problem for a while thinking it was in the carbs. because it would bog down at WOT. After taking out my old one and replacing it with the one I repaired, the bike runs like a scalded dog. Runs better this time after working on it than when I first got it and worked on it. Again I thank you scdmarx for posting with pictures. As for the unit on my bike, I guess when the bike and I took that tumble in the median, it caused the plate to get cockeyed somehow and it was completely froze up as well as the mechanical advance. Last thing to do is resync the carbs, clean it up, and post pics of how it looks now. I say to anyone out there who is having trouble with bogging down at full throttle, make sure vacuum and mechanical advances are working correctly.

 

[danf]

Good for you Steven..Bravo

 

[danf]

Setting your timing with the PG unit..[vacuum advance] Fella's even though the manual says the timing is non adjustable, we here have found out different, Joe Drum mentioned to me that turning the canister will retard the timing or advance it,,For this fella's your going to need a timing light, and a timing inspection sight cap that goes on the top of the engine..Well I was inspecting my advance creation and everything is working great still...Now I learned something new as well, you can call me a perfectionist if you want but I was bothered by what I saw and I could not understand why it was like that,,let me explain....See when looking at my timing thru the cap the F-1 and F-2 were off the mark, well see the f-1 was really just like a hair off and the f-2 was at least a full line off, the way it showed before was they were exactly the same..I decided I should remove the timing belt covers and inspect the marks...Spot on...I couldn't understand why these marks were not the same..hummmm You guy's are not going to believe this...Call me a perfectionist if you want but by Gosh I wanted these marks the same so now I'm on a mission man..While I had the t-covers off I noticed something, When I did this conversion I changed the right side belt to get the front crank off...Well the way I change belts is fool proof on getting it right...Ok..When I put the belt on and Tensioned it, I thought I matched the other side...Guess what fella's and here's what I learned, if these belts are not the exact tension it will throw off the timing just a hair, all I did was loosen the tension a little bet on one of the belts I felt was a little too tight and then I rechecked the timing marks thru the timing light and it was now perfect...Santa Maria, only a perfectionist would screw around with this like I did, I think I just wanted to understand why the marks were different, even though it was just the thickness of a line..Well F-1 and F-2 are both exactly on the timing marks now, I'm a happy camper once again.. I guess when I did the timing belt change previously I did the tension perfectly [more focused] than I did this last time..Most guy's would say awe close enough but I'm not most guy's...Not when it come to my timing..

 

[scdmarx]

Interesting, and a good point. A loose belt can cause cam timing to be 1/2 or one tooth late, as well as chattering back and forth. But I guess I'm just not getting the full picture yet. The timing light is triggered to flash at the moment current passes through the plug wire. You point this light at the mark on the crankshaft flywheel. I can't put it together in my head how the ignition spark moment is affected by the cam belt timing. What drives the advance unit drive shaft at the pulse generator? I can easily understand this with the earlier points driven on the end of the camshaft.

 

[dan filipi]

Interesting, and a good point. A loose belt can cause cam timing to be 1/2 or one tooth late, as well as chattering back and forth. But I guess I'm just not getting the full picture yet. The timing light is triggered to flash at the moment current passes through the plug wire. You point this light at the mark on the crankshaft flywheel. I can't put it together in my head how the ignition spark moment is affected by the cam belt timing. What drives the advance unit drive shaft at the pulse generator? I can easily understand this with the earlier points driven on the end of the camshaft.

opcorn:

 

[jdegase]

with the old style points BOTH marks would be off evenly. and only the left belt would effect this.
unless I'm missing the big picture also.

you like popcorn dan?

 

[danf]

Well, all I can say is it happened and I was blown away by it..I didn't know that was possible..I played around with it for a good while, scratching my head because those marks weren't the same, trying to figure out why...Found it..Perhaps next time you guy's are messing with the belts loosen one more than the other, but first look at the marks in the sight hole and take note of them, then experiment with it if ya want to... :clapping:

 

[joedrum]

gee weez guys thats why i say over and over that you have to go the nuetral spot on each side ...no pressure on valves and retension the belts when there put on ...not perfectionest ...proper way to do it period ...both sides have to be equaly tension for it to be timed right let alone last and run right ....this belt procedure is the top of the smoothness scale on the motors if done right the motors purr in a almost vibrationless smoothness ....

its great beav you electronicly figured this out with the lights on the timing marks ....im with ron the pully light is deceaving as there is to many varibles to be direct confromation :mrgreen:

 

[danf]

Joe I just had the belt way to tight on one side is all...I'm sure the way you change your belts is the best way..But you do check your work with a timing light right?

 

[joedrum]

no i dont beav ...iguess i would if i had one ....but knowing me probably not ...when thing are basicly all machanical ...taking out slop or loosening a to tight situlation is the best anyone can do ...the light just a confromation device ...but i can see others doing it as part of the way they do it ...im not slaming that part at all just belt instalation ...the valve springs are way over power the tension springs on belt tensioners ...and have to be out of the way ...so you can tell if the the belt is to tight or loose by observation and proper way to do it....

 

[scdmarx]

When the ignition spark unit is driven by the camshaft, it's standard procedure to check/set ignition timing dynamically with a light after timing belt replacement or adjustment. It will normally be off by at least a couple degrees.

I can't find a good picture or exploded view, (and I don't have a motor out to look at) of what I'm looking for, but in the manual photo of the motor looking from the rear seems to show that the drive shaft for the spark advance unit might line up with the crankshaft. I don't know this, I'm just reading into the photo. If so, this would mean that the advance unit, which activates the pulse generator, is driven from the crankshaft. Translated... the spark will occur at the plug when the crankshaft is at the TDC compression stroke position (adjusted by the advance mechanisms) no matter what the valves are doing.

I just want to add that this ain't about busting balls. I'm just trying to understand how this motor works. Wouldn't it be nice to "get it right" because we understand how it works?

 

[danf]

It's all good guy's...My timing is spot on now and the valves are spot on...Just a minor issue but the main thing is I wanted to report it.. Just in case someone else has this issue..