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That's quite a ride William!

Ok.....Joe and I put our heads together this morning and with help from the Weber manual, I made a radical 'adjustment' to the Weber carb.
Will post in my carb thread.
 
[video]https://youtu.be/e37K5TZakKk[/video]
Down the driveway using the iPhone mounted to the Vetter fairing
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=117072#p117072:tfz7iaid said:
Ansimp » Wed May 07, 2014 2:36 am[/url]":tfz7iaid]
[video]https://youtu.be/e37K5TZakKk[/video]
Down the driveway using the iPhone mounted to the Vetter fairing

:shock: Let us know when we can send you new fork seals and rear shocks fer cheap Tony.

~O~
 
S0, no rain some sun and little wind. 185 miles up to Marysville via 65 , over to Colusa via 20 (spent a couple Hrs in the casino , got a card and a $10.00 credit put my 10 in also......Left with 240.40 profit......rode on up to Willits on 45and 126 back home on I5s man what a ride.
 
the/82-standard.was smoking on the right-side.i adjusted-valves.more responsive,right from the start.right side still smokes..looked at #3 carb,and yes it was leaking.so now.a carb removal.and clean.or if all bad .a rebuilt-kit in near-future.it don,t cost nothing..sitting,in my shop...its a good view...so..on to the 54 triumph-project..
 

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Lapped in the valves, reassembled the head and installed onto the engine, installed the new timing belts, adjusted the valves, installed the carbs. put on new fuel filter and oil filter, filled the oil and radiator. Took compression reading, have #1 165, #2 168 #3 168 #4 164. Fired up the bike, took half a minute to get it to run steady, sounds good firing on all four cylinders. set idle to 900rpm and as soon as you touch the throttle it jumps to 2500 rpm's and wont come back down, turn idle screw down and it stalls. It will stay at 900 rpm as long as I don't touch the throttle. Took it up the road, runs strong no lag in throttle response, pulls hard thru all the gears, but I have to use the gears to bring the idle down. Any one have any thoughts on this.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=117366#p117366:22vhonm0 said:
oldhondajamie » Sat May 10, 2014 5:27 pm[/url]":22vhonm0]
Lapped in the valves, reassembled the head and installed onto the engine, installed the new timing belts, adjusted the valves, installed the carbs. put on new fuel filter and oil filter, filled the oil and radiator. Took compression reading, have #1 165, #2 168 #3 168 #4 164. Fired up the bike, took half a minute to get it to run steady, sounds good firing on all four cylinders. set idle to 900rpm and as soon as you touch the throttle it jumps to 2500 rpm's and wont come back down, turn idle screw down and it stalls. It will stay at 900 rpm as long as I don't touch the throttle. Took it up the road, runs strong no lag in throttle response, pulls hard thru all the gears, but I have to use the gears to bring the idle down. Any one have any thoughts on this.
My first thought is hoping there's a vacuum leak but it could also be one of the carb slides hanging up and not dropping back down to it's idle position.

After you rev it and it hangs up there, try tapping on each slider cap. Might jar it loose.
 
Spray the carbs and boots with starter fluid no change in rpm so I don't think its a vacuum leak, also tapped the carb tops no luck. when I bring the engine back down to idle with the bike in gear it will stay there until I move the throttle over 1500 rpm's. could the air cut off valve have any thing to do with it, I did rebuild it along with the carbs. Grabbing at straws at this point.
 
It does sound like a vacuum issue or a sticking throttle plate. When you downshift, vacuum is higher than at any other time, and that's also when the air-cut-off valve is functioning. Check all the rubber hoses from the carbs to the plenum, plus the hose from the carb to the cut-off valve. Also, make sure there's no binding in any of the throttle linkage, including the cables. Is the return spring OK?

I hate to say it, but if the hoses are good, and tapping it doesn't fix it, the carbs will probably need to be pulled. Hopefully not!

I'm not familiar with the 1000 ignition systems - could this be an timing advance issue?? Just putting thoughts out there...
 
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