Well...it's OUT! :clapping: I will now throw some pics up, and try to 'splain how I did mine, and what ya might need to look for, or watch out for.
(this is gunna take a while..I'm on dialup :laptop: )
I thought I could do this without having to remove the fairing, but...ya can't...so go ahead and get if off. My 'Wing also has floorboards that add to the frustration factor. Anyway, after about 2 hours on Saturday, this is how far along I had gotten. Fairing, crashguards, floorboard/heel-toe shifter, and exhaust on the left side off.
Next. I took the side frame out. This piece comes out to make engine removal easier. In fact, if this was a solid frame, there would be no way to install or remove the engine. This also shows why I shudda went to the carwash first!
I removed the timing belt covers, to make it easier to maneuver the engine around once loose...a tip From Dan.
This shows how open it is with all the crap out of the way....it also shows how nasty I let this thing get.... :blush:
Next, I drained the oil, and the coolant, using the drain plugs on the front cover. My coolant is a nice pretty pink...no smell either. The oil, on the other hand, was desperately in need of changing. Then I removed the radiator. I had to remove my air horn first, and set it up over the frame, out of the way.
Here we have the shroud/heat shield that sits behind the radiator. This part is also the front/top engine mount.
Here is the radiator/fan off, and out of the way...so I don't step in the middle of it.
Now, on to the right side...remove the crashguard, floorboard, plug wires, vacuum hose for the ignition advance, and fuel lines.
Push the rubber accordion-like boot back, and use 90* snapring pliers to remove the snapring that holds the driveshaft to the output of the engine. Pic sux, but that's the best I could do with just two hands...
This shows the tach cable and clutch cable disconnected. I also removed the rear brake switch to have more room to get the driveshaft snapring off.
Removing the bolts that hold the intake tubes to the engine.
I used mechanic's wire to tie the carb rack up, and away from the engine. This gives plenty of room to remove the engine without having to mess with the throttle cables. I also covered the intake ports in the heads with tape to keep the critters(and loose bolts) out. On the left side, I removed the intake tubes completely, but left them on on the right side.
I think I found that annoying rattle I've had for a while... :smilie_happy: At this point, I disconnected all of the sensor wiring...water temp, fan switch, oil pressure, and ...who the h :sensored: l thought it would be a good idea to stick the dang neutral switch waaaay down there, where ya can't get to it to remove the screw holding the wire on? Don't forget the stator wiring, and the pulse generator connector.
Removed fuel line from pump to carbs.
Otay...THIS was my "OH S :sensored: T" moment....this was when I realized I had neglected to dig out my floor jack before starting this job, and having crap scattered all over the place....can you see where my jack is?
I put the jack in from the right side...I did this for a reason. To the left of the 'Wing is my '74 Corvette, which I refused to pull outside while doing the stator job. Since space was limited, I went in from the right side, figuring I could roll the engine out far enough to work on it, without having the jack right in the dang way. I used a piece of plywood about 10" square up against the engine casing, both to protect it, and help balance everything. Worked out poifectly.
Once the jack was in place, and I had a little weight on it, I removed the final couple of bolts holding the engine in, dropped it down a smidge, and pushed it forward just enough to get the driveshaft disconnected completely from the engine.
Pushing to the left, and out she comes!
Once the engine was out far enough, I could swivel it around on the jack, to where I could get at the rear cover.
This is how it looks on the other side, with the engine swiveled around. Still got room to move.
Pulse generator, and clutch cover removed. Don't loose, or forget to remove the small(tiny) pin the drives the pulse generator.
Rear cover is OFF!
And here's the b :sensored: h that made all of this necessary...the infamous stator. :rant:
Once the cover was off, I could move over to my bench. First, gotta remove the snapring that hold the stator wiring grommet to the cover. This is done from the outside.
Remembering an earlier post on how tight these screws might be, I got my impact driver to do the job...no problemo! All three loosened up nicely, with no damage.
And heeeeeeer she be! One fried stator. It's pretty nasty, but I could not see any obvious insulation failures...
But...inside the rear cover, I saw what is apparently signs of the stator windings digging into the cover.
This is the backside of the stator. Once I clean it up a little, I might be able to see the failure area.
Now...all I gotta do is buy a new stator, some gaskets/oil-filter, and....find the time to put this mess back together. I really appreciate ALL of the helpful tips/tricks I've gotten from the CGW members. I would have never attempted this if not for youse guys. :thanks: :salute:
Stay tuned for chapter 2...Installation of the new stator!! :beg:
And...all of these pics are in
my Gallery, in a larger size. I'm trying to be kind to those of us that don't have high-speed connections...
UPDATE: I just got my Rick's Electrics stator ordered from Dennis Kirk, and a full gasket set off fleabay..total cost, $279.86. Should be here sometime next week. :builder:
oh2: 
