GL 1100 Stator Swap-FINISHED!!!

Otay fellers(and fellettes)...I jumped in wid both feet today, and started ripping the engine out of the 'Wing, to replace the Texas-fried stator. I worked for about 2 hours, and I'm aboot 1/2 way out...I think. Actually, most of the first hour was spent just staring at it....hoping it would just pull itself out...but the son of a gun never moved, so....I had to get my hands dirty.
No pics today, but I'll get some tomorrow as I attempt to get the dang thing out of the frame. Haven't bought a stator yet...having trouble finding a genuine Honda stator. It has been discontinued from Honda, so....I'll likely wind up with an aftermarket one...still researching them.
Anyway....I'll try to keep tabs on any specific "oh-ohs" I make in the process, in hopes of saving someone else from making the same boo-boo. One thing I will say right off the bat....I shoulda took this turd to the carwash first, and blew all the crud off of the bottom of the engine/frame...yeeeUCK! oh2:
Well...wishes me luckies for a speedy recovery! :beg:

G'luck Joel! I'd check into the rewound stators too. They could be better grade wire.

Get-r-done Joel, riding season is upon you. Good Luck.

Sorry to hear about your poor condition, here is hoping you recover soon. :smilie_happy:
:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :hi: :ahem: :ahem:

I used a Rick's Stator when I replaced the Stator in my 83' GL11 & a 78' GL10

The wiring seems larger in the Rick's stator.

Pulling out the old bolts that hold the old stator in without damaging them is difficult. As they are TORQUED by a 300lb gorilla, or may have a thread loc on them and were all not reuse-able after they were removed.

If you have the same problem, I had someone hold the rear cover, and used a ratchet, and 6" extension with a #2 or a #3 Phillips bit to remove it. you may need a rear cover gasket.

In the several stator's i have replaced I had to replace the Phillips head mounting screws also.

Some stator's have been tough to pull out of the rear cover but just keep working it and changing sides so that you pull it out straight without binding.

:thanks:
I was just about decided to go with Ricks...
Hope I don't have any problems with the cover, or stator bolts....yeeesh....can't handle any problems :builder: ....I gotta get this thing back on the road!! :mrgreen:

I have read a few horror stories of defective stators taking out the rotor and locking the engine.

What I know about aftermarket stators and coils in general to help avoid any "gotchya's"

When you get the stator, examine it very closely for any defects.
Compare it with the old one.

1. Look for any areas that don't have shelac on the copper windings.
2. The metal parts in the picture below (I don't know what they're called) must be tight and straight.
3. Measure diameter and height and compare against the old.



4. Check continuity between all 3 yellow wires. You should get tone.
5. Check continuity on each yellow to the center ground plane. There should be NO tone.

The whole unit should look like it's been QC'd well.
If there is any question, call the company and ask them about it.
Better to be sure than have to do it again.

6. Check the rotor for any loose rivets.
I have a couple good spares if you need one.

7. I'd put new lock washers and blue loctite on the stator screws so they can't back out.

8. When installing the rotor, clean the bolt threads both inside and out with brake cleaner then use blue loctite.

Well...it's OUT! :clapping: I will now throw some pics up, and try to 'splain how I did mine, and what ya might need to look for, or watch out for.
(this is gunna take a while..I'm on dialup :laptop: )
I thought I could do this without having to remove the fairing, but...ya can't...so go ahead and get if off. My 'Wing also has floorboards that add to the frustration factor. Anyway, after about 2 hours on Saturday, this is how far along I had gotten. Fairing, crashguards, floorboard/heel-toe shifter, and exhaust on the left side off.


Next. I took the side frame out. This piece comes out to make engine removal easier. In fact, if this was a solid frame, there would be no way to install or remove the engine. This also shows why I shudda went to the carwash first!


I removed the timing belt covers, to make it easier to maneuver the engine around once loose...a tip From Dan.


This shows how open it is with all the crap out of the way....it also shows how nasty I let this thing get.... :blush:


Next, I drained the oil, and the coolant, using the drain plugs on the front cover. My coolant is a nice pretty pink...no smell either. The oil, on the other hand, was desperately in need of changing. Then I removed the radiator. I had to remove my air horn first, and set it up over the frame, out of the way.


Here we have the shroud/heat shield that sits behind the radiator. This part is also the front/top engine mount.


Here is the radiator/fan off, and out of the way...so I don't step in the middle of it.


Now, on to the right side...remove the crashguard, floorboard, plug wires, vacuum hose for the ignition advance, and fuel lines.


Push the rubber accordion-like boot back, and use 90* snapring pliers to remove the snapring that holds the driveshaft to the output of the engine. Pic sux, but that's the best I could do with just two hands...


This shows the tach cable and clutch cable disconnected. I also removed the rear brake switch to have more room to get the driveshaft snapring off.


Removing the bolts that hold the intake tubes to the engine.


I used mechanic's wire to tie the carb rack up, and away from the engine. This gives plenty of room to remove the engine without having to mess with the throttle cables. I also covered the intake ports in the heads with tape to keep the critters(and loose bolts) out. On the left side, I removed the intake tubes completely, but left them on on the right side.


I think I found that annoying rattle I've had for a while... :smilie_happy: At this point, I disconnected all of the sensor wiring...water temp, fan switch, oil pressure, and ...who the h :sensored: l thought it would be a good idea to stick the dang neutral switch waaaay down there, where ya can't get to it to remove the screw holding the wire on? Don't forget the stator wiring, and the pulse generator connector.


Removed fuel line from pump to carbs.


Otay...THIS was my "OH S :sensored: T" moment....this was when I realized I had neglected to dig out my floor jack before starting this job, and having crap scattered all over the place....can you see where my jack is?


I put the jack in from the right side...I did this for a reason. To the left of the 'Wing is my '74 Corvette, which I refused to pull outside while doing the stator job. Since space was limited, I went in from the right side, figuring I could roll the engine out far enough to work on it, without having the jack right in the dang way. I used a piece of plywood about 10" square up against the engine casing, both to protect it, and help balance everything. Worked out poifectly.


Once the jack was in place, and I had a little weight on it, I removed the final couple of bolts holding the engine in, dropped it down a smidge, and pushed it forward just enough to get the driveshaft disconnected completely from the engine.


Pushing to the left, and out she comes!




Once the engine was out far enough, I could swivel it around on the jack, to where I could get at the rear cover.


This is how it looks on the other side, with the engine swiveled around. Still got room to move.


Pulse generator, and clutch cover removed. Don't loose, or forget to remove the small(tiny) pin the drives the pulse generator.


Rear cover is OFF!


And here's the b :sensored: h that made all of this necessary...the infamous stator. :rant:


Once the cover was off, I could move over to my bench. First, gotta remove the snapring that hold the stator wiring grommet to the cover. This is done from the outside.


Remembering an earlier post on how tight these screws might be, I got my impact driver to do the job...no problemo! All three loosened up nicely, with no damage.


And heeeeeeer she be! One fried stator. It's pretty nasty, but I could not see any obvious insulation failures...


But...inside the rear cover, I saw what is apparently signs of the stator windings digging into the cover.


This is the backside of the stator. Once I clean it up a little, I might be able to see the failure area.


Now...all I gotta do is buy a new stator, some gaskets/oil-filter, and....find the time to put this mess back together. I really appreciate ALL of the helpful tips/tricks I've gotten from the CGW members. I would have never attempted this if not for youse guys. :thanks: :salute:


Stay tuned for chapter 2...Installation of the new stator!! :beg:
And...all of these pics are in my Gallery, in a larger size. I'm trying to be kind to those of us that don't have high-speed connections...

UPDATE: I just got my Rick's Electrics stator ordered from Dennis Kirk, and a full gasket set off fleabay..total cost, $279.86. Should be here sometime next week. :builder:

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: Epasode 2 opcorn: opcorn: :ahem:

Wow! Lots of progress!

opcorn: opcorn: :beer: :thank_you: :thank_you:

hmmmm wonder why there are marks on the cover

joedrum":25psbjxx said:

hmmmm wonder why there are marks on the cover

Click to expand...

Me too.

Good progress Joel!

Well now...aren't we just the curious ones? :shock:
:smilie_happy:
I brought the rear cover, stator, and some other parts wid me to the shop today. I stuck them all in the washer(except the stator) and got them all cleaned up nice and purddy.
I gotta tell ya....I can NOT see anywhere on the stator windings that has been in contact with anything other than the stator. The marks on the rear cover are definitely NOT from the stator windings. They look more like marks from a press/mold, or some other type of machinery. Some of the lines/marks I see are far too small to be the wires on the stator, and...some of the markings are outside of the stator diameter. So that's gunna be a bust. Of course...ALL of my multi-meters are now at home....I have none of them here to check the stator alone, to see if it is shorted. oh2: Imma tinkin it is prolly shorted on the inside, where the windings meet up with the center core of the stator. I do see one area, right around where the three stator windings come together that looks like it may be melted, but it might also just be the shellack(or whatever the insulation is) gobbed up...but the windings right around there are much darker than anywhere else.
I did "modify" the rear cover, where the three screws go in. In a post I read somewhere else(linked to here from someone), the guy had replaced his stator a couple of times, and found that the new one he had was rubbing the windings on the three screw bosses on the rear cover. He filed his down to give the windings more room in that area...I used a die-grinder to accomplish the same thing. I wish the close-up function on my camera still werked, but it don't.
Anyway, I got the belt covers, clutch cover, and rear cover cleaned, and ready for installation as soon as the new stuff gets here. I left the stuff in the washer a bit too long, tho...it blew some of the paint off... :rant: Now. I gotta paint the stuff...or not. :mrgreen:
Imma gunna check the stator when I get home this evening to see if it still shows to be shorted to the core, or ground plane, as Dan called it earlier. Imma REALLY gunna be twisted if the new stator don't fix the charging problem....but I bet it do. :whip:

Most Awesomeness... :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

:read:
I got home this evening, and I checked the stator...it is definitely shorted somewhere...to itself. Checking from each yellow wire to the center core of the stator gives me a nice little buzz on my meter...as does checkin from each wire to the next wire. I am now completely convinced the stator is :sensored: .
While I had the cover at the shop, I went ahead and machined down the two areas of it that might possibly even come close to touching the stator. Once I get the new stator bolted in, I'm gunna try to run a feeler gauge around the backside, between it and the cover, just to make SURE it is clear. I'm absolutely sure the wiring was not touching anywhere on the cover...it is just shorted out internally, prolly insulation breaking down on the coils.
Here's the areas I was concerned about. I machined these two "bosses" & ribs down to almost flush with the cover surface...just to be sure.


A good thing, tho...I did find that the mechanical advance mechanism is in good working condition, and free. I will check the vacuum advance tomorrow, and make sure it is good. Parts should be here by Thursday....I might be back on two wheels come Monday! Yahooo!....just in time for the RAIN.... :Awe:

I had a question, too, for youse guys that have been into these engines before....when I pulled the rear cover, the drive from the trans came with it.


I was able to press it out of the cover, and stick it back into the gear inside the engine case...my question is...is there a thrust washer or anything like that on the other side of the trans gear that might have fallen down into the engine? IF so...then this turd might just be for sale...

I do not recall a thrust washer on my '81 when I took the cover off. If there is one and it dropped in the pan, you can access the bottom of the engine on the right side through the oil sump screen cover.

I don't recall a washer there either but I'll mark this topic unread so I remember to check the parts fiche tomorrow.

No thrust washer.



Oh and Joel, now that Gerry brought it up it's a good time to clean the oil pickup screen.

:thanks:
The Clymer manual says there should be a snapring that holds that shaft to the cover...mine does not have that, nor is there a groove for a clip. My point being...the shaft was intended to come out with the cover. At least on the 1000 engines, anyway. I dint get a chance to check the Honda manual, but...Thanks, Dan! Major drama has been avoided! :yahoo:


Yeah...I wuz gunna clean the screen while I had it out. I also checked the water pump for play...it has a very small amount of slop, but I'm gunna hold off on that for now. I can remove the front cover with the engine in the frame, so it's not a priority at this point....but..I do need to replace the pump and seals this winter, for sure....I'm tired of that danged oil leak up thar.