1982 Motor Removal and Stator Change

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I ended up not using any primer on the engine. I did a lot of cleaning and a good amount of sanding on it though and felt like that would be enough for the new paint to stick. I used VHT engine paint and it is a gloss black. I did prime the valve and timing belt covers.

I have looked and looked for the last bolt for the timing belt covers. It wasn't on there before and I actually thought that I have broken off a bolt and couldn't put one in without drilling and tapping in a new one. I'm not going to worry about it. It was clean in there.
 
Feelin kinda groovy about myself so I had to post this picture of my carburetors. I cleaned and scrubbed after cleaning out all of the passages and checking the float levels. Then I buffed the tops and float bowls, painted with some metallic paint and ooh hell they look so good. Picture does not do it justice.

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Number one son is on his way over to help me lug the motor back in. Who knows, maybe I'll ride tomorrow.
 
Very Noice! Wish i would have known you were looking for help I would have been in the Terra Haute area about the 27th I think. I would have been in the Big Truck but I could always drop the box and bobtail over.
 
I appreciate that flip flop. I got the motor in yesterday but have several things to re-attach. I'll be posting some pictures later today. I appreciate the comments too guys. Hopefully I'll ride it around today sometime.

I may need a new petcock. The damn thing leaked gas on my new painted motor and the paint is too new to have withstood it. Got some touch up to do.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=204132#p204132:1jrfa4nv said:
wedoo2 » Yesterday, 6:59 am[/url]":1jrfa4nv]
I may need a new petcock. The damn thing leaked gas on my new painted motor and the paint is too new to have withstood it. Got some touch up to do.
:crying:
 
Randakk sells a Viton petcock rebuild kit. The riveted valves can ave the rivet drilled out and replaced with small screws and nuts. Had to do that on my '78 petcock.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=204195#p204195:2y7uu86i said:
pidjones » Today, 5:41 am[/url]":2y7uu86i]
Randakk sells a Viton petcock rebuild kit. The riveted valves can ave the rivet drilled out and replaced with small screws and nuts. Had to do that on my '78 petcock.

I found a new Honda OEM on ebay and ordered it. $35 Thanks though.
 
Lots to talk about since I last posted an update. Some good and some bad. I'll get to the bad later.

I got the motor on my jack thanks to number one son.

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The Honda service manual gives you a sequence to hook things up and I went ahead and followed that. They want you to merge the drive shaft and the gear from the transmission first and I did that. The hard part there is maneuvering the motor around to line things up and I did this by myself. It makes things a little harder to do and lots of up and down off the floor. I was so damn sore Sunday I could hardly move. It was a long day. Of course I fought the circlip, but I finally won.

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Once I got the drive line set you need to put in the left side frame that comes off to remove the motor. this captivating shot is my finger putting the front of the frame in its place. There is a nut that goes over one end and the other is attached by the foot peg.

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After that you can start bolting in the motor mounts. Left sided first then the right, Then there are two long bots that slide through at the top motor mount and underneath the motor below the heads. In this shot you see me using the torque wrench on one of the bolts. The manual gives you the sequence and the torque values.

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Out with the jack. The carbs come next. Put on the cables first to make your life easier. Attach the intake manifolds (horns) and torque them lightly. I did it at 9 ft lbs. Gas lines, tighten up the rubber boots and don't forget the vacuum hose from the pulse generator under number three carb.

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The radiator came next. You need to put the heat shield in first then start mounting the radiator. Let me say this, for me putting in the radiator is a pain in the azz. You're on the floor, you're trying to maneuver the thing around, making sure that the wiring in back is reachable, your wires from the motor are hooked up, and the inlet goes through the opening up above. Then you have to line up the hoses It took me two hours. I've lost three of the little nuts that hold the screen protector on.

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Be sure you have tightened up the drain nut before you add coolant. I am going to flush out the system next week sometime.

Then I hooked up the starter cable and I may have to clean that a little better because the starter is dragging and it didn't do that before. Hooked up the clutch cable. I have a picture:

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Put the tach cable back on. It was a lot easier since I had earlier removed the fuel pump. Hooked up the fuel lines and the spark plug lines. The storage tank with the Budweiser holder was next.

This is where the fun begins. I had attached the engine guards before I started to put on the exhaust. Being the ******* I am you can't do that. There is a mounting piece of metal that goes between the two manifold down tubes and you have to completely become double jointed to hold it all just right in order to have things fit. I finally called uncle and the wife came out and helped me. By then I had emptied too many beer bottles and had to quit.

Took most of Sunday off.

Today she helped me again and we got the exhaust hooked up and the engine guards on. But not before this.

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That is a picture of a piece I found on the floor. Turns out it is a right side exhaust mount and it had broke off. The only thing I could do is weld it back on. I am an amateur welder with an inexpensive mig welder. Cleaned off the piece.

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And after welding. It cleaned off okay and seems to be holding.

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I hooked up the remaining wiring, one connection between the pulse generator and then tackled the stator wires. This is a blurry picture of the three wires that need to be connected after cutting off the connector that came with the new stator.

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I attached the wires together, soldered them and put on the shrink wrap on them.

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Time to start it up. Put in a little gas since I had drained it earlier to remove the petcock (that is leaking and a new one ordered) I had to build up the battery but found out that the maintenance
tender was not working. Put it on my car charger and got things up into the low 13s. The bike turned over slowly but it did turn over.

Then a big mess. Carb one was leaking, a lot. And now I am taking the carbs off again. And there is a lot of gas in the cylinders. If I can get the carbs out, and there is no guarantee of that, I'll be taking them to my guy, Motorcycle Bob, to look at them. Probably a bad float bowl gasket. Should have changed them. And float height. I'll let him deal with it and then take him fishing. Don't think I'll make NASR next week.

The Gold Witch always is there.
 
I took yesterday off for the holiday. Commemorated it in true American fashion by sweating in the heat, emptying a few beer bottles. (Coors Light since I am watching my figure. A true American company that Sam Elliott likes). Watched my pool fill up with little kids (who apparently don't need to pee at my house as our bathrooms were not touched. Hmmm), and watched, and listened, as our neighborhood blew up after dark.

Today is carb day. Like they have at the Speedway, or used to.

This is not the first time that I've taken the carburetors out of an 1100, and it probably won't be the last. The only other bike that I can compare the removal difficulty is with a 70s or 80s CB 750 or 900. Both are a true pain. Suzuki's of the same era made it easy, but putting in the boots were a bit harder. I found that it is just a bit easier to remove the slider covers on numbers one and three and it will give you a few mm extra wiggle room.

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So after damaging more of my new paint job on the motor I got them out. Decided not to throw them against a wall, especially since I just painted the garage. Started taking off the float bowls and low and behold look at the gasket from number one. No wonder why it was leaking gas.

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How that happened i don't know, but a about a foot of the gasket is gone. Some new ones are on the way. It proves that anyone who has followed this post up to now realizes that following it may not be the best instructional guide to work on your motorcycle. It's no wonder why I have a Gold Witch.

So now I wait on my gaskets and a new petcock. Try to touch up the damaged paint on the motor and watch other people ride their bikes. Oh well, it's too hot to ride right now anyways. Where's the Tylenol?
 
Just make sure that you find the missing link (piece)!! You don’t want that jamming up the new bowl gaskets or blocking the carby. :doh:
 

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