205 lbs. compression?

[dan filipi]

Ride report!

All I can say is

It's amazing what a difference a cam can make!

This run is with 1200 cams in an 81 engine with 83 gears.

It is smoother, almost NO buzz in the bars, the power band is a good 1500 rpm lower which makes takeoffs easier, smoother and quieter with less throttle.
On my usual freeway test run with a nice stretch of hill in both directions I could maintain 70 mph with much less throttle and it would easily speed up.
Coming up the hill from the other direction I would have a good 1/2-3/4 throttle to maintain speed with alot of laboring to speed up where now throttle is under 1/2 to maintain speed and alittle more twist it speeds up.


These are definitely the cams for me for the way I ride.

 

[slabghost]

WOW!!!
That is great news Dan! Is this on a full dresser? Dang now I might have to hunt down some 1200 cams. :smilie_happy:

 

[dan filipi]

Yes mine is a full dress Interstate.

I should say also that the engine is driving an external alternator and I have 2- 55 watt driving lights which I always have on. I also run a 17 inch rear wheel which lowers freeway rpms but makes takeoffs harder.
Both of these mean more load for the engine that's not there with a stock setup but was there with the other cams for a fair test.

For the arrangement I have these cams are perfect.

The power is the same it's just that the power comes on earlier although it does feel like I put a different engine in.
The power feels smoother throughout the rpm band but does seem to drop off some in the higher rpm's.
I didn't want to run it up too high because I lost some oil and it's at or below add and until we come up with a reason for the high compression I don't want to blow the engine.
Besides that I have no tach to see what it's at.

I would without hesitation recommend this mod for skiri251 and anyone else running a sidecar that wants the power band at a lower rpm.

I have to think over what's best to do now.
I want this power band but I also want the stock tach so maybe I'll see if 1100 cams can be ground to the 1200 specs.

 

[carl62cycles]

Ride report!

All I can say is

It's amazing what a difference a cam can make!

This run is with 1200 cams in an 81 engine with 83 gears.

It is smoother, almost NO buzz in the bars, the power band is a good 1500 rpm lower which makes takeoffs easier, smoother and quieter with less throttle.
On my usual freeway test run with a nice stretch of hill in both directions I could maintain 70 mph with much less throttle and it would easily speed up.
Coming up the hill from the other direction I would have a good 1/2-3/4 throttle to maintain speed with alot of laboring to speed up where now throttle is under 1/2 to maintain speed and alittle more twist it speeds up.


These are definitely the cams for me for the way I ride.

Great job Dan,glad that you pulled it thru and got benefits from this mod to your liking. :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

 

[slabghost]

Yes mine is a full dress Interstate.

I should say also that the engine is driving an external alternator and I have 2- 55 watt driving lights which I always have on. I also run a 17 inch rear wheel which lowers freeway rpms but makes takeoffs harder.
Both of these mean more load for the engine that's not there with a stock setup but was there with the other cams for a fair test.

For the arrangement I have these cams are perfect.

The power is the same it's just that the power comes on earlier although it does feel like I put a different engine in.
The power feels smoother throughout the rpm band but does seem to drop off some in the higher rpm's.
I didn't want to run it up too high because I lost some oil and it's at or below add and until we come up with a reason for the high compression I don't want to blow the engine.
Besides that I have no tach to see what it's at.

I would without hesitation recommend this mod for skiri251 and anyone else running a sidecar that wants the power band at a lower rpm.

I have to think over what's best to do now.
I want this power band but I also want the stock tach so maybe I'll see if 1100 cams can be ground to the 1200 specs.

Might be cheaper to get the tach drive machined to the 1200 cam.

 

[joedrum]

this is some good news dan ....makes me realizes why the mongruel did so well when the gearing was bumped so tall with the final drive switch....the 79 and 1200 cams are pretty close in grind ...and with some info slabghost just gave me it looks like the 1100 ignition well be compatable with minor adjustment or none at all with 1200 or 79 1000cams.....this will boost my work on the 831100 ....i just loved the touring gearing the mongruel had and the low noise level and no vibration at all ...there were many times i did 1000 mile trips in under 20 hrs ....im excited about the outcome dan :mrgreen:

 

[slabghost]

Has anyone found the timing specs for the 1200 engines? I'd like to compare it with the 1100 specs.

 

[dan filipi]

These are the only 1200 specs I've found gallery/image_page.php?album_id=127&image_id=1332

There may be more in that album, maybe under ignition?

Clymer seems to list the specs we need better. Does anyone have access to a 1200 Clymer?

 

[slabghost]

In my manual for 75-83 it's page IX titled quick reference data. It's at the very beginning of the manual.

 

[dan filipi]

Might be cheaper to get the tach drive machined to the 1200 cam.

Can they add that whole pump and tach drive to the end of a cam shaft?

 

[slabghost]

I don't see why not. They aren't position critical so you could feasably just cut that off another cam and bolt it on. Not recommended but it could work. The machine shop shouldn't have any trouble.

 

[dan filipi]

I'll talk to the shop this week and find out what they can do.

 

[carl62cycles]

Might be cheaper to get the tach drive machined to the 1200 cam.

Can they add that whole pump and tach drive to the end of a cam shaft?

If somebody would be crafty enough to do it.It should work.And threading it as to tightning the piece as to the rotation of the cam travel.

 

[jdegase]

might also look into retrofiting a electronic tach into the old manual tach housing...
this could be a real nice upgrade for our old 1100's

and ofcourse the electronic fuelpump
happy new year CGW !

 

[dan filipi]

Here's the latest:

joedrum sent me an early 1200 fuel pump, thanks again Joe.

This pump has solved 2 problems.
1. The aftermarket pump needs a place to mount so I'd have to build a bracket, the 1200 pump bolts right to the block with a small grind of the mounting bracket.

It looks a whole lot better too.

2. My number 2 carb has a flakey needle and seat that would get over powered by the wide pulses from the aftermarket pump. The 1200 pump holds rock steady at 2 psi so no more seat problem which means I don't have to pull the rack, YAY!

Next up I need to finish the back master cylinder rebuild then put a few miles on these 1200 cams and sort out any problems. I don't think there will be any other than rechecking valve adjustments as the rockers seat to the cam.

MSGT-R has ordered 1200 cams to install and has some good ideas on how to get a working tach, maybe a conversion from another model Honda.

This mod is looking very promising.

 

[slabghost]

This just gets better all the time. popcorn

 

[joedrum]

this is great ....dan im glad it work for you like you thought....msgt-r is going for it we do some wild things here on this forum ..... :Egyptian: :Egyptian: :mrgreen:

 

[MSGT-R]

I'll start a new thread on just the cams..

 

[scdmarx]

For 1200 cams in 1100 motor: 1,2,3.
1. 1200 cams
2. electric fuel pump (plug the old fuel pump hole)
3. tachometer (would be nice to have something that matches the speedometer)
*be nice to have new springs - with or without the mod*

Am I forgetting anything?

 

[dan filipi]

For 1200 cams in 1100 motor: 1,2,3.
1. 1200 cams
2. electric fuel pump (plug the old fuel pump hole)
3. tachometer (would be nice to have something that matches the speedometer)
*be nice to have new springs - with or without the mod*

Am I forgetting anything?

I had thought a left cam end cover would work on the right but the bolt spacing is different.
I'll probably just bolt on the lower fuel pump housing and blank off the hole where the pump bolts on.