4 inch pulley anyone?

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i have a one wire out but it does have the three wire plug . i wired in the ingnition and battery conectores and refired the bike , now in idle im getting 12.3 volts but at throttle im still getting 15.7 . i think my battery is shot and dont know if this might explain this or not
 
I think that may have something to do with the high charge rate also.
But someone can tell me if I am wrong but if it is a one wire alt. all it need is one wire from the post of the alt. to the battery no more. (this is how mine is wired and so far working fine 14.2 or so at cruise speeds and 12.4 or so at idle).
with only one wire from post to positive terminal.
Jerry
 
jerryinmich57":38bto9wn said:
I think that may have something to do with the high charge rate also.
But someone can tell me if I am wrong but if it is a one wire alt. all it need is one wire from the post of the alt. to the battery no more. (this is how mine is wired and so far working fine 14.2 or so at cruise speeds and 12.4 or so at idle).
with only one wire from post to positive terminal.
Jerry

Yes that's right Jerry.
 
dan filipi":1n8ducog said:
jerryinmich57":1n8ducog said:
I think that may have something to do with the high charge rate also.
But someone can tell me if I am wrong but if it is a one wire alt. all it need is one wire from the post of the alt. to the battery no more. (this is how mine is wired and so far working fine 14.2 or so at cruise speeds and 12.4 or so at idle).
with only one wire from post to positive terminal.
Jerry

Yes that's right Jerry.


What is a self-exciting (one-wire) alternator and, will it solve alternator wiring problems?

Self-Exciting Alternator makes no need for Alternator Wiring Diagram The Self-Exciting alternator is an alternator that has a special voltage regulator that doesn't need an ignition wire to activate it.

One-wire Alternator:
Is another name for the Self-Exciting Alternator mentioned above. You only need to connect the battery wire (one-wire).
The alternator turns on the voltage regulator when the engine starts turning the alternator.

https://www.alternatorparts.com/what_is_ ... rnator.htm
 
From everything I've read and shops I've talked to if the alternator is connected properly an alternator should never put out more than 14.8 volts.
Possible I guess a shorter battery could make it go higher but my understanding is its the job of the regulator to limit the output voltage and current (amps) follow. This is true whether the alternator is one wire or needs a separate exciter circuit.
 
Thank you Dan and 1060 it is good when someone confirms something and lets you know you understand what you are talking about.
That way if I ever talk to someone else I can say it with confidence.
Jerry
 
Just an fyi,
I find my one wire has a very small current draw when not running.
Not much but on the smaller bike battery it drains my Odyssey AGM below 1/2 charge in about a month similar to a radio preset memory load.
 
dan filipi":2qo5xizc said:
Just an fyi,
I find my one wire has a very small current draw when not running.
Not much but on the smaller bike battery it drains my Odyssey AGM below 1/2 charge in about a month similar to a radio preset memory load.

I was waiting until I knew for sure but there has been a couple of times I have heard a small buzz comming from the alt. after turning the Stella off.
So I am not sold completely on a one wire alt. yet
So I am thinking about wiring up a relay to cut the power to the alt. when shut down (which will kinda turn it back into a two wire again) and power the relay thru the key switch.
Jerry
 
jerryinmich57":1uil6f7g said:
dan filipi":1uil6f7g said:
Just an fyi,
I find my one wire has a very small current draw when not running.
Not much but on the smaller bike battery it drains my Odyssey AGM below 1/2 charge in about a month similar to a radio preset memory load.

I was waiting until I knew for sure but there has been a couple of times I have heard a small buzz comming from the alt. after turning the Stella off.
So I am not sold completely on a one wire alt. yet
So I am thinking about wiring up a relay to cut the power to the alt. when shut down (which will kinda turn it back into a two wire again) and power the relay thru the key switch.
Jerry

Gonna need a big relay to handle the alternator current.
 
You do not have to hook up all 3 wires in the plug. If the alternator has a self exciting regulator in it you do not hook up any of the wires in the plug just the output wire. If it needs an exciter wire you hook it to the ign terminal in the plug. Poorboy
 
which is the black wire in our 1100's right? runs down from the switch to the regulator rectifier right..
 
It would be best to verify that by checking the wiring diagram but I believe the black is correct.
Might also concider that black from the ignition isn't fused by any other means than the main 30 amp fuse.
I would feel more comfortable tapping after one of the fuse panel fuses, maybe the headlight fuse.
 
ok been trying to work on the bike today between rain storms and have gotten some more precise voltage messurements . at idle it strarts at 12.4 volts then after about 10 seconds drops to 11.4 and holds there until givin throttle at this point it goes to a make reading of 15.8 volts . i let run for several minutes to charge the battery some and after cutting off the bike charge on battery shows 12.3 volts until i try to start where it drops to .9 volts and wont turn over the bike , let of the starter button and battery volts go back to 12.1 volts . i think this is saying my battery is shot
 
countryboy843":33ree858 said:
ok been trying to work on the bike today between rain storms and have gotten some more precise voltage messurements . at idle it strarts at 12.4 volts then after about 10 seconds drops to 11.4 and holds there until givin throttle at this point it goes to a make reading of 15.8 volts . i let run for several minutes to charge the battery some and after cutting off the bike charge on battery shows 12.3 volts until i try to start where it drops to .9 volts and wont turn over the bike , let of the starter button and battery volts go back to 12.1 volts . i think this is saying my battery is shot

Ya I have to agree its new Battery time
 
With a suspect battery (and this one is more than suspect!) it isn't worth the time wasted to turn your meter on to start diagnostics. A duff battery affects every system on the bike - sometimes in very surprising ways.

Also, fyi, one of the machine shops that I got pulley quotes from asked for an update on Friday so that option is still open if needed. Personally, I would prefer to see it happen through a member. It also seems that CountryB has identified a few tweaks related to the nearby bolt heads.
 
dan filipi":1gqu62sw said:
I'm looking into having one or a few of the 4 inch crank pulleys machined.
No doubt I'll get a better price for quantity so anyone interested, do you want a pulley or can you machine it?

This pulley uses a 4 groove serpantine belt and will fit the 1200, 1100 and possibly the 1000 crankshaft.

I may have come up with something that just may work on the cheap, my friend Todd who also did this conversion on his 1100 found a pulley and was thoughtful and nice enough to give me the information on the vehicle it came off of, It's a 4 groove 4" pulley off the power steering pump on a 1989 Honda prelude, He said it's a 12mm hole, I need to confirm, I thought about using a 5/8" socket then realized it has a step up so I will probably get the machine shop to just cut a spacer instead of make the whole pulley.. But a 5/8" socket with a cut keyway fits the hole but you could make a few welds and grind them to fit I bet for the step up, poorboy I am even more poor than you, well wait, didn't you start out with a lawn mower pulley, or was that someone else?...aaah :smilie_happy:
 

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