76. Small oil drip from the timing covers

[bronko37]

Do i need to drain all the oil and coolant before i pull the head? Well, coolant will be out anyway I guess for takin the radiator off. Also, when i shop for a new head I should be able to get one from a 75-77right? Did u guys look at the link in my earlier post for the guy who does the head rebuild? Any thoughts on that?

 

[dan filipi]

I would change the oil anyhow.

 

[bronko37]

dan filipi » Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:14 am[/url]":26yy11xk]
I would change the oil anyhow.

Im gonna change it but there is literally 15 miles on this oil. I just did it when I changed the fuel pump. id I have to drain it tho before I can pull the head? When shopping for a cylander head, should I be looking for a complete assembly? Not sure what to look for. They all look burned but I dont know how much is acceptable. So hard to tell just from the pics on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/190619749088?ss ... Track=true

What u guys think about this one?

 

[joedrum]

yes bronko way to expensive to me it seems ... as for heads all 1000 heads will work ...even 1100 heads can work ... but there is slight difference in machining where the ignition goes... but ports and valves are all the same size .. i would strip heads first and see whats up and post some pics on forum for us to see ... heads on ebay .. the more striped they are the more gamble they are ... just get the heads off first ...

that head looked nice but did not show combustion side

 

[dan filipi]

I would pull the head and check it over before buying one.
Much of my experience is used may not be much better than what you have and yours might not be cracked.

A good idea before pulling the head is do a compression test.
This will tell us the general condition and is a good baseline reference later.

I thought you said earlier the oil was milky. If so I'd drain it.

Have you checked the water pump for any wiggle on the shaft?
That shaft seal leaking can let coolant into the oil.

 

[bronko37]

dan filipi » Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:30 am[/url]":1ut38z6r]
I would pull the head and check it over before buying one.
Much of my experience is used may not be much better than what you have and yours might not be cracked.

A good idea before pulling the head is do a compression test.
This will tell us the general condition and is a good baseline reference later.

I thought you said earlier the oil was milky. If so I'd drain it.

Have you checked the water pump for any wiggle on the shaft?
That shaft seal leaking can let coolant into the oil.

The oil was not milky at all. In that pick of the cylander head bolt, I thought originally that it was oil coolant leak that looked milky. Upon further inspection it is some kind of JB weld patch work. The oil and water do not seem to be mixing at all anywhere on the bike. However, i am assuming I should still not ride it? Was hoping to be able to do this job in the cold weather but if not I may just tear into it today. No time like the present I guess. And I sure dont want to damage anything else.

 

[bronko37]

joedrum » Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:25 am[/url]":mb636gwm]
yes bronko way to expensive to me it seems ... as for heads all 1000 heads will work ...even 1100 heads can work ... but there is slight difference in machining where the ignition goes... but ports and valves are all the same size .. i would strip heads first and see whats up and post some pics on forum for us to see ... heads on ebay .. the more striped they are the more gamble they are ... just get the heads off first ...

that head looked nice but did not show combustion side

joe, i thought they changed the cams and carbs on the 78-79 models for a bit more low end because of all the crap ppl were bolting on. It was my understanding that the 75-77 models all have the same cam and carb set up with only slight differences in the cv slides.

 

[dan filipi]

I wouldn't run it any more let alone ride it til this is fixed.
Water leaks like this will do other damage.

 

[bronko37]

Well ima start takin it apart then. More to come. I'll send pics when i find sumfin out. Thanks for all the support guys. I been here long enuff I guess its time to get off my wallet, lol. Donations commin Dan.

 

[joedrum]

yes thay did change the cams but its easy to switch to cams you have in bike now ...good point bronko i should have mention that ...i am toast from splitting wood and not thinking clearly ... as for heads being together and bought off ebay ..it just the fact that they have seen less motor breaking wrenching ,,, and the the wrenching comes from a more greedy mind set .. and the wrenching is probably not at a very intellegent level in general with greed in the head

 

[dan filipi]

I guess what joe is saying is selling the heads in pairs would be best and complete with the cams but guys split them to make more money?

Understandable in a strange economy like we have.
Guys trying to make money wherever they can.

 

[joedrum]

should have said the less disassemble ... the less gamble on part ... sometime my wording just sucks ...sorry ... comes natural ..hard to catch myself at times ... :swoon:

 

[bronko37]

I gotcha guys. Lemme pull this head and see whats goin on in there first i guess. I see no reason at this time to even mess with the left bank of the bike.

 

[joedrum]

me either

 

[dan filipi]

It's generally considered a good idea to do both sides at the same time since one failed the other may soon follow but that's up to you to decide.

 

[tlbranth]

If there's any chance at all of coolant in the oil, you should change it. Coolant will destroy bearings very quickly.

 

[bronko37]

Ok guys. Tell me what im lookin at here. The head is definitley cracked on the bottom. You can see it clearly. I work with one of the top welders in the country. Do you think it is something that can be repaired or is the head scrap?

While the bike was in the center stand a I noticed some oil pooling on the floor. It was comming out of the exhaust pipe underneath. The header has had some brazing repairs done, poorly I might add. So I pulled the left exhaust pipe. Both exhaust pipes were wet on the number 1 and number 2 cylanders. The 2 was clearly fresh oil as I just changed it. I have a feeling this job is just gonna snow ball. Time to pull the other head I guess. Not sure where to go from here.

 

[bronko37]

Well joe, i rented the compression tester but it odd not have a 12mm adaptor for my bike so I was jot able to do the compression test today. Looks like Im on hold until Tuesday when I can get the compression tester from the school. The good news tho is with waiting I will be using the same tester as the original test. So for now, im on standby until I can do a compression test on the left bank. If you think of anything else I can do in the mean time just let me know.

 

[Steve83]

Beware - if you haven't drained the oil, it will spray out through the hole where the oil orifice was on the left side when you crank the engine for a compression test.

 

[slabghost]

As for whether it can be welded or not. The best person to answer that question is your welder. It'd be worth asking him I think.