'78 - pinched another loaf - Johnny 5!

[pidjones]

Was going to finish assembly of the carbs to the plenum halves, join the plenum halves, and hook up the linkages. Then realized that I don't have the carb-to-plenum air o-rings. So, brought in a spare right side plenum half, cut it in half, and worked at sealing up the cut internal fuel lines (not there yet) to use for leak testing indvidual carbs. Learned that there is a VERY hard steel tube in the casting to carry fuel. Also, the engine paint came today. POR-15 aluminum color engine enamel.

 

[saganaga]

Is there any reason you leak-test the individual carbs, instead of the entire assembly?

 

[pidjones]

saganaga » Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:24 pm[/url]":32g1fip3]
Is there any reason you leak-test the individual carbs, instead of the entire assembly?

I will eventually, but thought it would save a few steps and make it a bit easier to identify the culprit doing them individually first. Plus, I wanted something (constructive) to do that didn't involve cleaning rust from the frame. Right now I have the first carb hooked to my auxiliary bottle with isopropyl alcohol. Took a while to get the test fixture leak-tight. turns out when I tapped and installed a 5mm screw to plug one of the holes, it cracked the casting. Super Glue fixed it for this purpose.

 

[saganaga]

pidjones » Yesterday, 6:44 pm[/url]":1e9qh1pn]

saganaga » Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:24 pm[/url]":1e9qh1pn]
Is there any reason you leak-test the individual carbs, instead of the entire assembly?

I will eventually, but thought it would save a few steps and make it a bit easier to identify the culprit doing them individually first. Plus, I wanted something (constructive) to do that didn't involve cleaning rust from the frame. Right now I have the first carb hooked to my auxiliary bottle with isopropyl alcohol. Took a while to get the test fixture leak-tight. turns out when I tapped and installed a 5mm screw to plug one of the holes, it cracked the casting. Super Glue fixed it for this purpose.

We have a surplus store near us, you may have something similar, which tends to carry enough chemistry supplies to start a meth lab. Good source for stoppers of all sizes that are resistant to most chemicals.

Might be worth checking out if the gasoline dissolves the superglue.

 

[pidjones]

saganaga » Fri Jan 24, 2020 1:50 pm[/url]":27ds9znd]

pidjones » Yesterday, 6:44 pm[/url]":27ds9znd]

saganaga » Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:24 pm[/url]":27ds9znd]
Is there any reason you leak-test the individual carbs, instead of the entire assembly?

I will eventually, but thought it would save a few steps and make it a bit easier to identify the culprit doing them individually first. Plus, I wanted something (constructive) to do that didn't involve cleaning rust from the frame. Right now I have the first carb hooked to my auxiliary bottle with isopropyl alcohol. Took a while to get the test fixture leak-tight. turns out when I tapped and installed a 5mm screw to plug one of the holes, it cracked the casting. Super Glue fixed it for this purpose.

We have a surplus store near us, you may have something similar, which tends to carry enough chemistry supplies to start a meth lab. Good source for stoppers of all sizes that are resistant to most chemicals.

Might be worth checking out if the gasoline dissolves the superglue.

Probably one around, as I'm 20 miles from Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Lots of surplus from the plants.

I don't use gasoline to leak test as my garage is in the basement of our house. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol. Right now, I have my auxiliary tank (a plastic bottle with filter and valve) hooked to the assembled rack after each carb passed individually. Looking forward to getting past the carbs and on to cleaning up the engine for painting.

 

[pidjones]

Finally finished with the carbs. Boxed them up for down-the-road. Pulled the fork legs apart, cleaned real good, polished the lowers a bit to get the worst of the oxidation off, polished the tubes, reassembled with new seals. I'll put oil in them when they are remounted.
Root canal tomorrow. Yahoo!

 

[Ansimp]

Looking good. :good:

 

[joedrum]

Always the best of work

 

[pidjones]

Up to 60 this afternoon, so I rolled the engine outside and gave it a good Gunk, foaming Gunk, and Scrubbing Bubbles cleaning. Still a few spots that will need a bit more, but I think they can be cleaned inside. Tomorrow will be either a ride on the GL1800, or sanding and priming the frame. I really need to take advantage of the weather tomorrow for painting.

 

[gwhsr68]

You're doing a good job making Johnny 5 road worthy again.

 

[pidjones]

Took the frame out back today and hit it with various grinder, flap disk, wire wheels and abrasive wheels. Then wiped it with isopropyl then acetone. Primed with etching primer then painted with Rustoleum appliance epoxy black. Sure looks a lot better, now.

 

[joedrum]

Liking the progress

 

[pidjones]

With the engine on its back for clean/prep/paint, I remembered that I had only removed the exhaust gaskets from the right side. So, I pulled gaskets. And pulled, and pulled. Total three per cylinder.

 

[pidjones]

After several days of cleaning her bottom, I horsed the engine up onto another dolly (a lower one) and painted all that I can see/reach like this. Will let it cure a couple weeks, then do the top. The POR15 didn't come out as nice in Aluminum color as it did in MG Maroon. The metallic streaked a bit, and it didn't level as well but it will do.

 

[mcgovern61]

Side note; I used POR15 black on my boat carb last year. Granted, I operated in salt water and the carb is cast iron and not aluminum, but I was not happy with how the POR15 held up to the environment.

Before rebuilding:

After rebuilding, mechanical cleaning, ultrasonic cleaning, rust preventer and POR15:

After one 4 month season in salt water:

 

[pidjones]

Which POR15 was this? I used POR15 engine paint. Has held up well on the Hunley through three years but not much mileage - mainly bike shows.

 

[mcgovern61]

pidjones » Mon Feb 17, 2020 5:27 pm[/url]":1nns94dk]
Which POR15 was this? I used POR15 engine paint. Has held up well on the Hunley through three years but not much mileage - mainly bike shows.

This is the POR15 I used:

 

[pidjones]

Not happy with the POR-15 engine enamel this time. The aluminum color doesn't level well like the MG Maroon did, and although I spent about a half-hour stirring it, came out very streaked looking. It will do as this is not a true restoration, just a rescue.

 

[mcgovern61]

Maybe give it a good sanding and top it off with the Duplicolor 1615 high heat paint. Worked great for me!

3 1/2 years later:

 

[pidjones]

Yes, I think that the next time aluminum is needed, I'll use VHT or Duplicilor engine rattle-can.