'81GL1100 carb vac set screw @ #4.

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Small drill and easy out bit (or self tapping screw). Those carbs a great if you can be meticulous with them.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
With broken easy out lodged in. Drilling is nearly impossible. Hollow drill would be sweet but I've never seen them.
 
Back in 2013 there was a member "oldschoolvarbs" that had a tool he remarked about for pulling the presses in jets. I found a mention of it but can't find a picture, maybe someone on here bookmarked it or copied a description somewhere, maybe an admin can find it in the archives
 
Thanks for all the help guys it's greatly appreciated. I received the replacement carb today so I cleaned and replaced the #1carb, installed the rack on the bike and thumbed the button. Success!!! Hot pipes on all four. I'll put the gauges on it tomorrow and dial in the vac. I have a colortune plug but I need to see if it'll fit this bike.

Gary H.
 
@joe: Thanks.
20161230_134723.jpg

I put the gauges on to dail in the vac.
20161230_134746.jpg

It over heated and pissed coolant from the reservoir. The fan never came on so I tested it with a 12v external battery; it spins freely. What do y'all think...thermostat? sending unit? sensor? waterpump? radiator cap? I'm thinking it's the pump or the thermostat not opening and closing as it should.

Gary H.
 
Sending unit is for the gauge. Switch is for the fan. Just grounds the fan circuit. Both are next to each other. Probably the fan switch.
 
@ghost: I agree...thermastatic fan switch. Thanks.

I adjusted the clutch per the instructions in the fsm. When I put the bike in any gear other than neutral the rear wheel spins. Pulling the lever in doesn't disengage the clutch. What gives?

Gary H.
 
Off the floor or ground it should spin some. Can you put it in gear wheel down with the clutch in? I had to adjust the "lift pin?" at the center of the clutch housing on my 81 and still had trouble getting it right. Cable seemed to have stretched some. Keep at it and you should be able to get it adjusted.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=185450#p185450:y23d5o8k said:
slabghost » Sat Dec 31, 2016 7:07 am[/url]":y23d5o8k]
Sending unit is for the gauge. Switch is for the fan. Just grounds the fan circuit. Both are next to each other. Probably the fan switch.
+1 :yes:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=185465#p185465:3hbr043i said:
slabghost » Yesterday, 7:53 pm[/url]":3hbr043i]
Off the floor or ground it should spin some. Can you put it in gear wheel down with the clutch in? I had to adjust the "lift pin?" at the center of the clutch housing on my 81 and still had trouble getting it right. Cable seemed to have stretched some. Keep at it and you should be able to get it adjusted.
On center stand the wheel doesn't spin in neutral. It spins in all other gears. I'm going to order a clutch center nut removal tool and pull the plates. The fsm says if the clutch doesn't disengage there's too much free play at the hub adjustment or the plates are warped. Something's not right in there. I'll also order a new fan switch since my wife won't let me warm oil on the stove to ohm out the old one :shock:. Thanks for the help.

Gary H.
 
Remember the clutch is in oil. In gear and oil moving will turn the wheel some. Try Putting it in gear and tie the clutch pulled. Motor off and see if you can turn the wheel by hand. If it turns easy it's probably fine.
 
Yes, I know the plates bathe in oil but it sat for a year prior to me buying it. When I initially removed the cover there was oil in the housing. I've let it idle since then and when I removed the cover today there wasn't any oil in there. I have it partially dis-assembled (pics are in my album) because I want to be certain all is good and the plates aren't warped or damaged.

Gary H.
 
Good plan. Some may be stuck together. Just trying to save you a little work. A little use often clears up things.
 
OOPS! Feeling stupid, I replied then realized I missed a whole page of posts, ignore me and i'll try to be more "with it" (edit)

My guess would be to make a little brass bushing on my harbor freight lathe to hold a drill bit in the center of the idle jet. Then drill and tap the very small (1/8") hole to put a machine screw into. This would give grip for pulling without the spreading force that a screw or extractor might produce.
Let me know if you want help with the bushing, I would be happy to (free)
I was able to save a brake master cylinder by tapping the piston and using all thread for a slide hammer! Worked great!
 

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