'81GL1100 carb vac set screw @ #4.

[gwhsr68]

kerryb » Today, 9:11 am[/url]":63vhycdq]
OOPS! Feeling stupid, I replied then realized I missed a whole page of posts, ignore me and i'll try to be more "with it" (edit)

My guess would be to make a little brass bushing on my harbor freight lathe to hold a drill bit in the center of the idle jet. Then drill and tap the very small (1/8") hole to put a machine screw into. This would give grip for pulling without the spreading force that a screw or extractor might produce.
Let me know if you want help with the bushing, I would be happy to (free)
I was able to save a brake master cylinder by tapping the piston and using all thread for a slide hammer! Worked great!

All help and suggestions are appreciated even after a solution has been executed. Yeah, I think the spreading force of the extractor is what's got it stuck. I actually did the same thing with a master cylinder piston except I didn't use a slide hammer. Thanks anyway.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

The new fan switch arrived. Waiting for the clutch nut removal tool.

Gary H.

 

[dan filipi]

Pretty when they're new.

 

[gwhsr68]

I read in a thread there's a plug that can screw into the drain port on the carbs to wet set the float level. Where can I buy one?

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

Most just screw in some aquarium tubing into the drain plug hole. Loop it up the side to compare the level to the top of the float bowl.

 

[gwhsr68]

Wet setting fuel levels. Where should the fuel level be in relation to the bowl?

Thanks,

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

On similar Kawasaki carbs I think it was set 2mm below the float bowl mating surface. Yours appears to be right at the mating surface.

 

[gwhsr68]

Thanks.

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

I went to the KZ forum and found this. Should work.

 

[gwhsr68]

Great. Thanks.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

Need help...

1. Bike starts and will idle @ 1k rpms.
2. Bike shifts from neutral to 1 and back to neutral with and without load.
3. With bike on center stand in 1 the rear wheel will spin and stop as it should with clutch handle pull/release.
4. When I try to throttle it in 1st under load there's a loud rattling/slapping/grinding sound (like the motor's about to explode). What gives?

Pulse Gen test: 1/2 = 505, 3/4 = 515.
Coils Sec. test: 1/2 = 21.7k, 3/4 = 21.9k.

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

Sounds to me like the carbs are way out of balance. Have you tried to synchronize them?

 

[dan filipi]

Might have sticking carb slides or dirty main jets...or low gas level in the bowls....or not getting enough fuel delivery.
Have you had the carbs off to clean them up? What is the history of them and the bike? Save us from re-reading this entire thread.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm dont sound like carbs to me ....put that bike on the centerstand and with rear wheel off the ground put it in first gear and see how much play is in the final drive and motor by hand turning it ...might be shaft problems with u joint ...

 

[gwhsr68]

slabghost » Yesterday, 8:50 pm[/url]":29x58pm9]
Sounds to me like the carbs are way out of balance. Have you tried to synchronize them?

I think you're correct. I'm going to re-sync using the "idle down method".

or not getting enough fuel delivery. Have you had the carbs off to clean them up?

I think you're also correct. The mixture is off. I've completely rebuilt the carbs including the shaft felts.

hmmmm dont sound like carbs to me ....put that bike on the centerstand and with rear wheel off the ground put it in first gear and see how much play is in the final drive and motor by hand turning it ...might be shaft problems with u joint ...

I'll check it out.

Thanks y'all,

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

There is setting of the mix screws and there is synchronizing. These are two separate adjustments. Mixture screws should be adjusted to highest achievable rpm each twice. Omit the idle chop. Synchronizing the carbs is done on the throttle linkage to assure each opens simultaneously with the others. This is done by matching vacuum to each other.

 

[gwhsr68]

slabghost » Today, 5:47 pm[/url]":2k96ihj0]
There is setting of the mix screws and there is synchronizing. These are two separate adjustments. Mixture screws should be adjusted to highest achievable rpm each twice. Omit the idle chop. Synchronizing the carbs is done on the throttle linkage to assure each opens simultaneously with the others. This is done by matching vacuum to each other.

I know the difference between setting the mix screws and synchronizing but thanks. Got a issue tho...when I adjust the screw out at 2,3 and 4 the idle responds as it should, however, at 1 the idle doesn't rise. I pulled the screw and there is no damage to the tip. What's going on here?

Thanks,

Gary H.

 

[chilidawg]

Just interjecting, like I do occasionally.

So what is this, "idle down" method? Of setting up carb's, never heard of that!?

#3 carb is your reference carburetor when synchronizing a set of 4, rear left.

If it's messed up, in any way, then so is your whole sync' process.

And. Out of sync' carb's can, make you think you have problems with your primary drive and possibly your final drive too.

Though I always thought it was a primary drive problem, which it wasn't.

It was always, UN-synced carburetors.

 

[slabghost]

gwhsr68 » Thu Feb 09, 2017 11:06 pm[/url]":8aaf61rk]

slabghost » Today, 5:47 pm[/url]":8aaf61rk]
There is setting of the mix screws and there is synchronizing. These are two separate adjustments. Mixture screws should be adjusted to highest achievable rpm each twice. Omit the idle chop. Synchronizing the carbs is done on the throttle linkage to assure each opens simultaneously with the others. This is done by matching vacuum to each other.

I know the difference between setting the mix screws and synchronizing but thanks. Got a issue tho...when I adjust the screw out at 2,3 and 4 the idle responds as it should, however, at 1 the idle doesn't rise. I pulled the screw and there is no damage to the tip. What's going on here?

Thanks,

Gary H.

Possibly the passage to that mix screw is plugged rendering the adjuster ineffective? Could pull the screw entirely and squirt carb/ injector cleaner through the passage. It might clear it. Idle drop procedure is leaning the mix after highest idle is obtained which I think is too lean especially for todays fuel mixes.

 

[gwhsr68]

@dawg: Idle down or idle drop; same thing.
@ghost: Thanks.

Gary H.