'81GL1100 carb vac set screw @ #4.

[gwhsr68]

20170218 183120

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

Tank fuel tap in the "on" position.

Tank fuel tap in the "on" position.

20170218 183137

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

Tank fuel tap in "reserve" position.

Tank fuel tap in the "reserve" position.
Did a little investigating... shouldn't the fuel flow from the tap in these two positions? It's not flowing at all in either position.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

20170218 185104

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

Inside the tank.

Inside the fuel tank.

20170218 185128

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

The fuel float/gauge sender works as it should.

The fuel float/guage sender works as it should. I replaced the filter but I haven't replace/rebuild the petcock yet because fuel was flowing freely the last time I accidentally tripped the lever during the last carb rack install. Is it safe to assume the petcock has failed?

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

Try blowing air back into the tank through the petcock.

 

[joedrum]

if theres not very much gas in the tank it might not flow ....petcock comes off rather easy ...2 o rings there

 

[gwhsr68]

20170218 192920

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

The petcock appears to be fine.

The petcock appears to be fine.

@joe: I'll add fuel and see what it does.

Thanks y'all,

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

20170218 223447

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

A peek into #3 with the colortune plug.

A peek into #3 with the colortune plug. Looks a little rich to me. What do y'all think?

20170218 222713

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

A peek into #1 with the colortune plug.

A peek into #1.

Gary H.

 

[joedrum]

i have no idea on color tune stuff but if its running rich ...it my opinion parts of the idle circuit gets cloged up and mix screws dont really have impact ...the carbs seem to pull gas from other circuits and run rich ..seems cv carbs wonder through rpm at rich and lean cause vacuum is not consistent enough to stay rock steady like it should to stay dial in great ...hard to get stock carb to come off idle good and get going ...atf mix with gas is the stock carbs best friend ...adds punch to the gas and slowly cleans things up ...many small passages in stock carbs

 

[gwhsr68]

20170219 114843

• gwhsr68
• Feb 19, 2017

Imho it's a good looking bike.

Imho it's a good looking bike.

20170219 114905

• gwhsr68
• Feb 19, 2017

It starts and idles at 1100 rpms without issues.

It starts and idles at 1100 rpms without issues. It does everything it's suppose to do on the stand in 1st gear clutch/throttle wise but won't do it under load. I'm thinking like you Joe...float levels are off (The only thing not new in the bowls are the pilot jets and the drain screws; they got cleaned and received new o-rings). Got anything else? Anyone?

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

20170219 185624

• gwhsr68
• Feb 19, 2017

Quick tested the fuel pump check valves.

Quick tested the fuel pump check valves.

20170219 185748

• gwhsr68
• Feb 19, 2017

Fuel pump weep hole is clear.

Fuel pump diaphragm and weep hole is ok.

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

Do a wet check of float levels.A clear tube screwed into the drain holes of the bowls then run up the side will show fuel level.i'm pretty sure it should be about 2 mm below the top edge of the bowls. Too low and it will starve for fuel as rpm increases.

 

[gwhsr68]

Will do. Thanks

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

I re-adusted the float levels and the bike still will not accelerate off idle so I started testing the ignition system. Pulse generators tested higher than before but still in spec and has infinite resistance between individual wires and ground. When I tested for 12v to the spark units the battery power drops from 12v to 11v @ each b/w connector wire so I tested for 12v to and through the ignition switch at the red wire input (12v) and black wire output (11v). Is the ignition switch suspect?

TIA,

Gary H.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm well something up here ...iggy switch can be a problem the way there made is not all that great ..plug can be a bitch to take off and the connection is just rivets of soft copper ..but i doubt this is the problem ....if compression good it should go ...maybe check timing advance is a path of something not working right ..1100s are famous for vac advance failure ...hose that goes to advance on back of motor ..can be suck on and you should be able to hear and feel ignition plate move for advance ..if not this might be the problem

 

[gwhsr68]

I'll look into the vac advance. Thanks Joe.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

20170306 001641

• gwhsr68
• Mar 5, 2017

The '82 rack #4 has a broke float post. I ordered a post repair from Randakk.

The '82 rack #4 has a broke float post. I ordered a post repair kit from Randakk.

20170305 191406

• gwhsr68
• Mar 5, 2017

I cleaned the ignition assembly and replaced the contact plate.

I cleaned the ignition assembly and replaced the contact plate. Then I disconnected the right control switch connector in the bucket and now there's 12.6v through the ignition switch.

20170306 000901

• gwhsr68
• Mar 5, 2017

I revisited the right control.

So I revisited the right control switch in search of the power loss. It appears the power drop is through the connector for the right control. I'm going to test the regulator/rectifier tomorrow.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

The Randakk post repair kit was a success.

Gary H.

 

[joedrum]

good deal im glad it worked... looks great

 

[gwhsr68]

Thanks Joe.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

I pulled the black wires from the red right control connector in the bucket and made them bullet connect which provided 12v to the spark units.

20170311 114331

• gwhsr68
• Mar 18, 2017

Rebuild '82 rack.

Then I rebuilt the '82 rack.The idle was hanging and after further inspection the choke tab was holding the throttle plates open.The bike now will start, idle and return to 1050 rpms. It also shifts through the gears without issue. I've got a few more issues to sort out but it feels good to have it come this far. Thanks everyone for all the help.

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

Alrighty then! Congrats on a successful revival!