'81GL1100 carb vac set screw @ #4.

[chilidawg]

Dunno what idle drop is either, educate me, please.

I think maybe you're overthinking this thing!

You might want to pull those baby's and check #3 (they only come out from the the left) before you go down those roads.

But what do I know, I'm only interjecting.

 

[joedrum]

working on epa junk cv carbs ....it take divine intervention to have succes ...where there holes ...there not suppose to be ...where there suppose to be holes ...there plugged up ...the EPA is the worse thing to ever happen to a motor period

 

[slabghost]

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1149&image_id=11516

 

[gwhsr68]

@chilidawg: All help is much appreciated. I've rebuilt the entire rack including the shaft felts and the rack has been on and off the bike throughout this process.

@ghost: Thanks for posting that.

This is my first "Old Wing".I didn't know about the pressed in pilot jets until I started rebuilding the rack. I'm in the process of sourcing a '82 rack and rebuilding it (I'm not going to keep tangling wirh these pressed in jets).

Gary H.

 

[slabghost]

Pressed in jets are no trouble really if you force in drywall screw and lever it out with wire cutting pliers like pulling a nail.

 

[gwhsr68]

20170212 110347

• gwhsr68
• Feb 12, 2017

Rebuilt rear master cylinder leak.

Rebuilt rear master cylinder leak.
Update: I bought a '82 carb rack on e-bay. While I wait for the rack I decided to tend to a few other discerning issues; one being the apparently oe unobtainable and therefore rare rear brake mc. The leak is at the bottom of the boot which drips directly onto the hot exhaust; not good. I rebuilt it a while back hoping it would not leak since the bore didn't appear pitted. Is there a fix for this other than sourcing another mc? I'm thinking of trying jb weld and sanding the pitted areas. Also did a cold compression test: 170,160,170,175.

Gary H.

 

[dan filipi]

Compression looks great.

As far as the MC goes and using jb weld, I've never tried it but I'd try to find a real good condition used or mod in a new one from a different bike.
I did that on my 83 using a GL 1800 MC works great.

 

[gwhsr68]

dan filipi » Yesterday, 12:39 am[/url]":1w7trjgj]
Compression looks great.

As far as the MC goes and using jb weld, I've never tried it but I'd try to find a real good condition used or mod in a new one from a different bike.
I did that on my 83 using a GL 1800 MC works great.

Thanks. How much did you have to mod it? Got any pics? Has anyone fit a 1000 mc, say '79? Seems like with every old school project there's at least one significant component I think some company would say, "Hey, there's enough Old Wings still on the street that we could make a tiny mint for a aftermarket REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER THAT WON'T LEAK ONTO THE HOT EXHAUST!" Rant over, thanks for listening.

Gary H.

 

[dan filipi]

Modding in the 1800 MC may not have been the simplest or the cheapest but I knew it would be a good size for the linked brakes so I went with it.

Start from this post in the topic I made. It has pics.

 

[kerryb]

I may have a spare rear master cylinder from an '83/82. I have spent many hours fighting/cajoling them back into service as leak-free parts of the team and ended up with a spare. I don't remember which outlet it has...metal tube or banjo bolt fitting. Let me know if you want to investigate that route, I'll dig it out of the box. The difference in fittings refers to linked or unlinked brakes.

 

[gwhsr68]

Thanks Dan.
Kerry,
Here's a pic of the mc...

20161111 171147

• gwhsr68
• Nov 22, 2016

Rebuilt rear master cylinder

If this is the one you are referring to I would like to buy the one you have. Thanks.

Gary H.

 

[gwhsr68]

Ahhhhhh...when you re-build the carb rack make certain THE MIXTURE SCREW WASHERS ARE THE CORRECT SIZE! :Awe:

20170215 170506

• gwhsr68
• Feb 16, 2017

Idle mixture o-rings.

Gary H.

 

[joedrum]

when you rebuild cv carbs act like your making a Frankenstein..it aint easy and nontelling how it will act :Awe: :builder: :rant: :rant: :mrgreen:

 

[kerryb]

Sorry Gary, the one I have is for a hard brake line (linked brakes). How bad is the one you have? Is the bore pitted?

 

[gwhsr68]

Disclaimer: I'M A IDIOT!
I removed the rack, again, because a squished/damaged seal at 1 caused a leak. Turns out I also incorrectly assembled the acceleration pump. Got that sorted and thought I had this thing. With the pilot screws @ 2.5 turns out and the vacuum synched it starts and idles nicely at 1k rpms and throttles to 3k and back without backfire. The fan works as it should. It shifts from neutral to 1 and back without issues. It'll start out in 1st ok but when I let the clutch handle all the way out and try to roll the throttle it doesn't want to accelerate, however, when I feather the clutch lever in the middle of the friction zone and roll the throttle it acts like it's trying to go. Help...what's going on here?

TIA,

Gary H.

20170218 120602

• gwhsr68
• Feb 18, 2017

Final sync @ 2 and 4 to 3.

Today's final sync...2 and 4 to 3 (and 1)
Pulse Generator test results: 1-2 @ 505 Ohms, 3-4 @ 516 Ohms. Spec: 530 +/- 50.

 

[slabghost]

Check all the connections for air leaks.

 

[gwhsr68]

Thanks ghost. Will do but if there was a air leak wouldn't it have thrown off the sync and idle?

Gary H.

 

[julimike54]

Not enough vacuum to matter at idle or no load

 

[slabghost]

Synchronizing the carbs with leaks will mask minor leaks. Open the throttle and it gets real obvious. Always best to check all connections for leaks when you install the carb rack. I was sure mine was good until I found I hadn't even tightened the horns to the heads on one install.

 

[gwhsr68]

Thanks y'all.

Gary H.